Antarctic Archives » Explorersweb https://explorersweb.com/category/antarctic-2/ Mon, 28 Jul 2025 12:42:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.1 https://s3.amazonaws.com/www.explorersweb.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/26115202/cropped-exweb-icon-100x100.png Antarctic Archives » Explorersweb https://explorersweb.com/category/antarctic-2/ 32 32 Ancient Rivers Under Antarctica Could Slow Down Melting https://explorersweb.com/ancient-rivers-under-antarctica-could-slow-down-melting/ https://explorersweb.com/ancient-rivers-under-antarctica-could-slow-down-melting/#respond Mon, 28 Jul 2025 12:42:17 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=106917

The ice caps which cover our planet's poles are key to understanding global weather patterns and changing climate. But we still don't have a complete understanding of how they work, and what goes on beneath the frozen surface.

A group led by researchers at the UK's University of Durham used radar to glimpse beneath the coast of East Antarctica. In a new study, they announced their findings: Ancient riverbeds beneath Antarctica control the behavior of the ice sheet above them.

A map with several charts
Left, a bedmap of the Eastern Antarctic coast. Right, radargrams where the solid black line marks the ice surface. Photo: Paxman et al

Reconstructing ancient landscapes

It is crucial to understand how much, and how quickly, the East Antarctic Ice Sheet is going to melt as temperatures continue to rise. It's the largest of Antarctica's three ice sheets, and it contains enough water to raise the sea level by over 50 meters.

The behavior of an ice sheet depends on more than just surface conditions. The landmass hidden beneath the ice impacts how quickly it melts and where it collapses. To get an idea of what that hidden landscape looks like, researchers analyzed a series of radar scans covering 3,500km of East Antarctica.

The scans found what was once a coastal plain formed by fluvial erosion. Between 80 million years ago, when Antarctica divorced Australia, and 34 million years ago when it became covered in ice, rivers flowed across East Antarctica and into the sea. Those rivers carved out a smooth, flat floodplain all along the coast. Breaking up the plain are deep narrow troughs in the rock. These plains covered about 40% of the area they scanned.

This find confirms previous, fragmentary evidence for a very flat, even plain beneath the icy expanse.

A map of Gondwana 157 Ma
This map shows India, Australia and Antarctica 157 million years ago, in the process of pulling apart. Photo: Paxman et al

Hopeful findings

This is good news for those of us who enjoy not being underwater. Computer programs modeling future climate behavior now have more data to work on. Before, as the study's lead author, Dr. Guy Paxton, said in a Durham press release, "The landscape hidden beneath the East Antarctic Ice Sheet is one of the most mysterious not just on Earth, but on any terrestrial planet in the solar system."

Understanding the terrain beneath the ice makes it much easier to understand how and where the ice will move. “This in turn will help make it easier to predict how the East Antarctic Ice Sheet could affect sea levels.”

More than that, however, the ancient fluvial plains may be slowing down the melt. The study suggests that the flat plains may be acting as barriers to ice flow. Fast-moving glaciers pass through the deep channels, but the bulk of the ice, atop the plains, is moving much more slowly.

Ultimately (as they always do), researchers stressed the need for more investigation. Further studies would involve drilling all the way through the ice and taking samples of the rock below. So look forward to that.

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Stir-Crazy in Antarctica: A Brief History https://explorersweb.com/a-look-back-at-stir-crazy-behavior-in-antarctica/ https://explorersweb.com/a-look-back-at-stir-crazy-behavior-in-antarctica/#respond Fri, 20 Jun 2025 16:02:15 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=105980

 

BY DANIELLA MCCAHEY

As Midwinter Day comes to Antarctica –- the darkest day of the year –- those spending the winter on the frozen continent will follow a tradition dating back more than a century to the earliest days of Antarctic exploration: They will celebrate having made it through the growing darkness and into a time when they know the Sun is on its way back.

The experience of spending a winter in Antarctica can be harrowing, even when living with modern conveniences such as hot running water and heated buildings. At the beginning of the current winter season, in March 2025, global news outlets reported that workers at the South African research station, SANAE IV, were “rocked” when one worker allegedly threatened and assaulted other members of the station’s nine-person winter crew. Psychologists intervened –- remotely –- and order was apparently restored.

The desolate and isolated environment of Antarctica can be hard on its inhabitants. As a historian of Antarctica, the events at SANAE IV represent a continuation of perceptions – and realities – that Antarctic environments can trigger deeply disturbing behavior and even drive people to madness.

A view of a small cluster of buildings below a cone-shaped hill, with a dark sky and the Moon shining.

Long hours of constant near-darkness take their toll in the Antarctic winter. Andrew Smith, via Antarctic Sun, CC BY-ND

Early views

The very earliest examples of Antarctic literature depict the continent affecting both mind and body. In 1797, for instance, more than two decades before the continent was first sighted by Europeans, the English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge wrote “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.” It tells a tale of a ship blown by storms into an endless maze of Antarctic ice, which they escape by following an albatross. For unexplained reasons, one man killed the albatross and faced a lifetime’s torment for doing so.

In 1838, Edgar Allan Poe published the story of Arthur Gordon Pym of Nantucket, who journeyed into the Southern Ocean. Even before arriving in Antarctica, the tale involves mutiny, cannibalism, and a ship crewed by dead men. As the story ends, Pym and two others drift southward, encountering an enormous, apparently endless cataract of mist that parts before their boat, revealing a large ghostly figure.

H.P. Lovecraft’s 1936 story, At the Mountains of Madness, was almost certainly based on real stories of polar exploration. In it, the men of a fictitious Antarctic expedition encounter circumstances that “made us wish only to escape from this austral world of desolation and brooding madness as swiftly as we could.” One man even experiences an unnamed “final horror” that causes a severe mental breakdown.

The 1982 John Carpenter film The Thing also involves these themes, when men trapped at an Antarctic research station are being hunted by an alien that perfectly impersonates the base members it has killed. Paranoia and anxiety abound, with team members frantically radioing for help, and men imprisoned, left outside, or even killed for the sake of the others.

Whether to gird themselves for what may come or just as a fun tradition, the winter-over crew at the United States’ South Pole Station watches this film every year after the last flight leaves before winter sets in.

A trailer for the 1982 film ‘The Thing,’ set at an Antarctic research station.

Real tales

These stories of Antarctic “madness” have some basis in history. A long-told anecdote in modern Antarctic circles is of a man who stabbed, perhaps fatally, a colleague over a game of chess at Russia’s Vostok station in 1959.

More certain were reports in 2018, when Sergey Savitsky stabbed Oleg Beloguzov at the Russian Bellingshausen research station over multiple grievances, including the one most seized upon by the media: Beloguzov’s tendency to reveal the endings of books that Savitsky was reading. A criminal charge against him was dropped.

In 2017, staff at South Africa’s sub-Antarctic Marion Island station reported that a team member smashed up a colleague’s room with an ax over a romantic relationship.

Mental health

Concerns over mental health in Antarctica go much further back. In the so-called Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration, from about 1897 to about 1922, expedition leaders prioritized the mental health of the men on their expeditions. They knew their crews would be trapped inside with the same small group for months on end, in darkness and extreme cold.

American physician Frederick Cook, who accompanied the 1898-1899 Belgica expedition, the first group known to spend the winter within the Antarctic Circle, wrote in helpless terms of being “doomed” to the “mercy” of natural forces, and of his worries about the “unknowable cold and its soul-depressing effects” in the winter darkness. In his 2021 book about that expedition, writer Julian Sancton called the ship the Madhouse at the End of the Earth.

Cook’s fears became real. Most men complained of “general enfeeblement of strength, of insufficient heart action, of a mental lethargy, and of a universal feeling of discomfort.”

“When at all seriously afflicted,” Cook wrote, “the men felt that they would surely die” and exhibited a “spirit of abject hopelessness.”

And in the words of Australian physicist Louis Bernacchi, a member of the 1898-1900 Southern Cross expedition, “There is something particularly mystical and uncanny in the effect of the grey atmosphere of an Antarctic night, through whose uncertain medium the cold white landscape looms as impalpable as the frontiers of a demon world.”

Footage from 1913 shows the force of the wind at Cape Denison, which has been called ‘the home of the blizzard.’

A traumatic trip

A few years later, the Australasian Antarctic Expedition, which ran from 1911 to 1914, experienced several major tragedies, including two deaths during an exploring trip that left expedition leader Douglas Mawson starving and alone amid deeply crevassed terrain. The 160-kilometer walk to relative safety took him a month.

A lesser-known set of events on that same expedition involved wireless-telegraph operator Sidney Jeffryes, who arrived in Antarctica in 1913 on a resupply ship. Cape Denison, the expedition’s base, had some of the most severe environmental conditions anyone had encountered on the continent, including winds estimated at over 260 kilometers an hour.

Jeffryes, the only man in the crew who could operate the radio telegraph, began exhibiting signs of paranoia. He transmitted messages back to Australia saying that he was the only sane man in the group and claiming the others were plotting to kill him.

In Mawson’s account of the expedition, he blamed the conditions, writing:

“[T]here is no doubt that the continual and acute strain of sending and receiving messages under unprecedented conditions was such that he eventually had a ‘nervous breakdown.’”

Mawson hoped that the coming of spring and the possibility of outdoor exercise would help, but it did not. Shortly after his return to Australia in February 1914, Jeffryes was found wandering in the Australian bush and institutionalized. For many years, his role in Antarctic exploration was ignored, seeming a blot or embarrassment on the masculine ideal of Antarctic explorers.

A group of people stand on a rocky shore waving at a small boat in the distance.

After five months of isolation in trying conditions on a remote Antarctic island, 22 men rejoice at their rescue in August 1916. Photo: Frank Hurley

Wider problems

Unfortunately, the general widespread focus on Antarctica as a place that causes disturbing behavior makes it easy to gloss over larger and more systemic problems.

In 2022, the United States Antarctic Program, as well as the Australian Antarctic Division, released reports that sexual assault and harassment are common at Antarctic bases and in more remote field camps. Scholars have generally not linked those events to the specifics of the cold, darkness, and isolation, but rather to a continental culture of heroic masculinity.

As humans look to live in other extreme environments, such as space, Antarctica represents not only a cooperative international scientific community but also a place where, cut off from society as a whole, human behavior changes. The celebrations of Midwinter Day honor survival in a place of wonder that is also a place of horror, where the greatest threat is not what is outside, but what is inside your mind.

 

This article originally appeared in The Conversation.

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First Aviator to Land at South Pole Dies at 102 https://explorersweb.com/first-aviator-to-land-at-south-pole-dies-at-102/ https://explorersweb.com/first-aviator-to-land-at-south-pole-dies-at-102/#respond Mon, 09 Jun 2025 23:05:45 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=105668

"I remember we were in the bunk about two or three o'clock in the morning, and somebody came into the barracks and said, 'You're going to South Pole at 0800' or something," said Conrad Shinn in a 1999 interview. "We chuckled because we thought that was what we called a whiskey decision."

That's how Lieutenant Commander Shinn recalled finding out he had been chosen to land at the South Pole. A WW2 veteran, Shinn joined the American Naval Antarctic exploration efforts "just to get out of doing the usual things every day." On October 31, 1956, he became the first man to land a plane at the South Pole.

A recent announcement reveals that he died on May 15 in Charlotte, North Carolina, at the age of 102.

A snow covered mountain
Mount Shinn, the third-highest mountain in Antarctica, is named for Conrad Shinn. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Test flights

The decision to send Shinn to the South Pole, he claimed, was fairly last minute. But Shinn had plenty of experience for the job. At the start of WW2, he'd joined the Naval Aviation School. After graduating, he served in the Pacific, airlifting casualties. After the war, he decided to volunteer for duty in Antarctica.

There, he worked under the famous and somewhat controversial explorer Admiral Richard Byrd. His first flights at the bottom of the world were part of Operation Highjump, in 1946-47. His job was to fly back and forth over the frozen continent, while a camera strapped to the plane took pictures.

The mission fell short of its goal -- to take air photos of the continent for mapmaking -- but it gave Shinn lots of experience with Antarctic aviation. As Shinn reflected in 1999, "It was fun. No, I don't really understand why they did it and what the benefits were."

plaque to Shinn
Photo: Facebook

 

Shinn was part of an anti-submarine helicopter squadron in 1953, when a call went out for volunteers for a new Antarctic mission. He was the first pilot to sign on.

The new mission was part of Operation Deep Freeze, a 40-nation endeavor to explore both polar regions for science. The Antarctic aviation branch made a rocky start. In the first year, the planes didn't bring enough gas, and half of them, including Shinn's, had to turn around and go back to New Zealand. Aircraft carrier ships were deemed unworkable in the frozen waters. So, Shinn made his triumphant return to Antarctica only after 18 hours of difficult flying.

Black and white photo of a polar base from above
An aerial view of 'Little America,' the base established during Operation Highjump. Photo: USAP Photo Library

Que Sera Sera

By year three, though, they had not only made it to Antarctica but also set about a science program. The crowning achievement was to fly to and land at the South Pole.

Staffing the flight was complicated. As with Scott's more ill-fated South Pole run, no one knew who would be on the final team until the last minute. There were two factions: one was aligned with the absent Admiral Byrd, the other with Admiral Dufek. Shinn, a neutral party, believed he was chosen partly to prevent a Byrd-aligned man from going.

Shinn observed more staffing drama when it came time to decide the co-pilot. The plane was a twin-engined R4D-5 Skytrain called Que Sera Sera. It could bring seven, but only two in the cockpit. When Captain Hawkes was chosen over Captain Cordiner, Cordiner protested.

"If there'd been any firearms, they might've been used," Shinn recalled. "He was really livid."

The flight out went comparatively smoothly. On October 31, 1957, eight hours after taking off from the base at McMurdo Sound, Shinn landed Que Sera Sera at 90 degrees South.

While the brass took photographs, Shinn hopped back into the plane. Landing, he knew, had been the easy part. Now came the hard part -- taking off. The stakes for failure were high; they had very little survival experience and no other means of transport. It was around -50˚C. The Navy's backup plan was to airdrop survival equipment for them.

A small airplane on display
The 'Que Sera Sera,' named for the popular Doris Day song. Photo: National Naval Aviation Museum

Take-off from the South Pole

The real achievement, Shinn later quipped, was being the first man to take off from the South Pole. The pole is about 3,000m above sea level. With the thin oxygen, the engines couldn't fire at full capacity. Worse, the heat of the plane's skis melted the ice beneath it, which refroze quickly in the freezing temperatures.

Even with the engines at full, Que Sera Sera couldn't budge. Shinn resorted to a jet-assisted take-off. This meant firing 16 rockets in order to generate enough thrust to get them aloft. It just barely worked.

The pilot wasn't home free. "We were engulfed in a cloud of ice," he said, which limited visibility. The extreme cold made the instruments inaccurate, and at any moment, the hydraulics in the flaps could freeze solid.

Luck and skill held true; Shinn returned them all safe (though not sound; the Admiral had come down with pneumonia) to base.

Shinn retired in 1963 to Pensacola, Florida. When asked in the 1999 interview if he wished he'd done anything differently, he responded with a firm no. "I did my best. I had good crews."

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Penguin Speedster Sets Antarctic FPT (Fastest Penguin Time) https://explorersweb.com/penguin-speedster-sets-antarctic-fpt-fastest-penguin-time/ https://explorersweb.com/penguin-speedster-sets-antarctic-fpt-fastest-penguin-time/#respond Thu, 22 May 2025 17:15:11 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=105201

A three-penguin race on Galindez Island, site of the Ukrainian Antarctic Expedition, concluded on Tuesday. The victory went to a newcomer to the racing scene, Unidentified Penguin #2. Unfortunately, no penguin equivalent of FastestKnownTime.com exists, but we encourage the penguin-loving community to create one.

Not professional racers

Penguin racing often flies under the radar. Averse to social media, many champion FPT-setters also have day jobs as penguins, doing penguin things like diving for fish. Fortunately, the Ukrainian Antarctic Expedition (UAE) filmed the first half of the Galindez Island race.

"This video is for those who still doubt that penguins are surprisingly fast creatures," wrote the UAE on Facebook.

In the video, the eventual winner races neck and neck with two other penguins. The three-penguin lead pack jostles for space. A large part of penguin racing appears to be strategy: when to waddle like a weird little windup toy versus coast on one's belly like a sled? Penguins can accelerate to 6kph on their bellies, but navigating difficult ground requires a combination of the two modes of transport.

Penguins are even faster in water, reaching speeds of 36kph.

The purpose of the race remains unclear

While setting the FPT on Galindez Island is a worthy goal, the exact nature of this race has not been confirmed.

"This trio must have had extremely important things to do," the UAE suggested. "Was it krill again at a discount, or did they bring a truckload of pebbles from a neighboring island?"

Penguins are very social birds, nesting in large groups and often mating for life. A penguin in veterinary care at the Perth Zoo made headlines in 2021 for its investment in watching episodes of Pingu on an iPad. And in Japan's Tobu Zoo, a penguin captured the internet's heart by apparently falling in love with a cardboard cutout of an anime character.

Still, documented evidence of racing on land is a rare treat.

A penguin staring up at a cardboard anime cutout.
Grape-kun passed away in 2021, but he got in a lot of quality time with the love of his life before that. Photo: Phys.org

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New Funding Cuts Forcing U.S. Researchers Out of Antarctica https://explorersweb.com/new-funding-cuts-forcing-u-s-researchers-out-of-antarctica/ https://explorersweb.com/new-funding-cuts-forcing-u-s-researchers-out-of-antarctica/#respond Tue, 15 Apr 2025 12:49:28 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=104087

The National Science Foundation (NSF) is an independent agency funds scientific and technological development across the United States and its territories. It also funds research and maintains facilities in Antarctica.

Well, it did do that, anyway. The Trump administration's cuts have slowed operations in Antarctica to a crawl. Scientists warn that climate research conducted there is vitally urgent. Despite this, the NSF is preparing for an operational retreat from Antarctica.

A sign reading McMurdo Station, with a ship in the background
Recent cuts have hit McMurdo Station. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

End of U.S. Antarctic dominance

For decades, the United States has been one of the most prominent forces on the southernmost continent. With three large Antarctic bases, a network of research vessels, and the South Pole Highway, which runs across the Ross Ice Shelf, the United States maintains a significant amount of Antarctic infrastructure.

However, that infrastructure has been in decline, especially in the wake of COVID-19. Last summer, the 30-year charter on the Antarctic Research Support Vessel Laurence M. Gould expired. Citing budgetary constraints, the NSF did not renew the charter, leaving only one functioning vessel.

The aging Antarctic stations also experienced cuts. Trump recently canceled the construction budget for the McMurdo Sound base. McMurdo Station has been in operation since 1956. From its position on Ross Island, it acts as a logistical and transport hub for the rest of Antarctica. However, its facilities are desperately in need of repairs and upgrades. Last year, one of the dorms was demolished, and now it will not be able to be rebuilt.

Not just the facilities but the research itself is imperiled. Last year, the NSF announced that it wouldn't fund new projects for the 2024-25 and 2025-26 field seasons. Only projects that secured earlier funding are proceeding, for now.

Meanwhile, other International powers remain interested in Antarctic research. Both China and Russia have announced new bases in the region, and China, France, and Chile will deploy new icebreakers there.

Antarctica can't wait

As the effects of anthropogenic climate change become more dramatic, Antarctica is the canary in the coal mine.

In an interview with New Zealand's Newsroom, Gary Wilson, president of the Scientific Committee on Antarctic Research, expressed his concerns.

The challenge, he said, is that "Antarctica can’t wait." Global temperature change and sea level rise are urgent problems, and Antarctica is central to stopping this. “Time is just not on our side."

This isn't just overzealous budget cuts; it's part of an intentional policy opposing climate research. It remains to be seen what, if any, research American scientists will be able to conduct in Antarctica in the coming years.

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Avian Flu is Tearing Through the Antarctic Peninsula https://explorersweb.com/avian-flu-is-tearing-through-the-antarctic-peninsula/ https://explorersweb.com/avian-flu-is-tearing-through-the-antarctic-peninsula/#respond Thu, 13 Mar 2025 22:45:37 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=103209

Disease tops nobody's list of Antarctic dangers. "The great advantage of this place is that one never gets ill," said Robert Falcon Scott. His contemporary, Douglas Mawson, even suggested that the icy continent would be an ideal place for tuberculosis sufferers to recover due to the lack of germs.

A lot can change in a hundred years.

Deadly new strain

It's been over five years since a new, deadly strain of Avian flu, called HPAI H5N1 clade 2.3.4.4b, began decimating global bird populations. There have been significant outbreaks in the UK, Europe, South Africa, and the Americas. The disease targets not only birds but also pinnipeds like seals, walruses, and sea lions. Last year, it finally landed on the Antarctic Peninsula.

But scientists could do nothing, not even monitor the situation. During the long, black winter, they were unable to study the progress of the disease. As soon as conditions allowed, a research team about the Australis crossed the Drake Passage into Antarctic waters. They were led by Spanish virologist Antonio Alcamí, who had identified the first case a year earlier.

The ship, equipped with a state-of-the-art lab, visited dozens of sites along the peninsula's coast and in the Weddell Sea. What they found wasn't encouraging.

Researchers in PPE examine the bodies of skua gulls
Researchers from an earlier expedition, funded by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), found dead and dying skua gulls. Photo: CC BY-SA, Ben Wallis

Widespread infection

In total, they collected and tested 846 samples, and 188 tested positive for H5N1. The infected animals were from nine bird and four seal species. The animals they tested had a high viral load, making them highly infectious to other animals around them. Carcasses, especially, are a vector, and because of this the skua, a carrion-bird, has been especially hard hit.

The disease has spread geographically, too. The virus was present in 24 out of 27 sites they visited, ranging down the arm of the peninsula and across various Antarctic and subantarctic islands, including South Georgia. The older infections were on the north side of the peninsula, where visitors observed lower populations, especially of the skuas. On the south side, the outbreak is more recent, and visitors can see dead and dying seabirds.

No infections have been confirmed on the Antarctic continent beyond the peninsula, but that doesn't mean H5N1 isn't there. Researchers have already observed unusual mortality among bird populations further east along the Princess Astrid Coast.

Along with the skua, crab-eater seals have been particularly affected by recent outbreaks. On Joinville island, where crab-eaters are common, the local population was devastated.

A researcher in full PPE walking through an Adelie penguin colony
On Joinville Island; the Gentoo penguins, pictured, were relatively unscathed, but crab-eater seals were not so lucky. Photo: Antonio Alcami (CBMSO)

What about penguins?

One animal that hasn't been dying off is penguins. Both Adelie and Gentoo penguins have tested positive for the virus, but many infected individuals appear healthy. The virus is so thick in the air at their colonies that the researchers detected it using an air pump.

There were some suspicious penguin die-offs last year, which researchers think may have given the surviving birds immunity.

This is good news for penguins but presents a substantial risk to human visitors. Avian flu can infect humans who come in contact with infected birds. Of all Antarctic birds, the cute and friendly penguin is most likely to approach, or be approached, by humans.

The Scientific Committee on Antarctic Research (SCAR) established the Antarctic Wildlife Health Network database to monitor the spread. According to SCAR President Yeadong Kim, they are "deeply concerned with the evolving situation" in Antarctica.

With the fall of Antarctica, Australia is now the only uninfected continent.

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Great Explorers: Nordenskjold, Larsen, and the Swedish Antarctic Expedition https://explorersweb.com/great-explorers-nordenskjold-larsen-swedish-antarctic-expedition/ https://explorersweb.com/great-explorers-nordenskjold-larsen-swedish-antarctic-expedition/#respond Fri, 07 Mar 2025 18:53:19 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101223

In the end, in the dark, it all came down to three things — experience, good judgment in the face of uncertainty, and penguin meat.

It was 1903, their second winter on the White Continent. Swedish geologist Otto Nordenskjold and five men under his command shivered in a hut on Snow Hill island, off the eastern coast of the Antarctica Peninsula. The intention had been to overwinter once on the spit of land, conducting scientific observations while they waited for their ship, the Antarctic, to pick them up. It was slated to be a nine-month layover.

The first winter had been brutal but manageable. Nordenskjold and his men were prepared and had even managed a 645km, month-long mapping expedition along the coastline. They returned just in time for their appointed pickup. While the expedition had been a scientific success, it wasn't without setbacks. Several dogs had died in a blizzard, and fierce winds had toppled an outbuilding and blown away a boat. Doubtless, the men were looking forward to putting the continent behind them.

a group of men in front of a hut
Otto Nordenskjold (bottom center) and the Snow Hill Island party. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

An empty horizon

But when the appointed moment came, the Antarctic failed to appear. Days turned into weeks, and the ice closed in. Soon, it was apparent. Nordenskjold and his men were in for another dark winter.

Fans of polar exploration might already be familiar with Otto Nordenskjold and the 1901–1904 Swedish Antarctic Expedition. While perhaps not as famous as the top-tier polar racers, Nordenskjold was a major player in his day. If his name has faded slightly over the last century, it might be because he was always more interested in geology than he was in planting a flag.

But the full tale of the Swedish Antarctic Expedition — and the cataclysmically bad luck it endured — is always worth telling. And if you're new to the story, well, you're in luck.

The expedition was Nordenskjold's brainchild. A geologist and geographer, the Swiss explorer wanted to fill in blank spaces on the Antarctic map, particularly the eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula. Privately funded, the expedition would leave Nordenskjold in crushing debt for the rest of his life. But first, the men had to make it home.

Norwegian Carl Anton Larsen captained the Antarctic and was in overall command of the expedition. Larsen was an experienced polar explorer — in fact, he was the first person to ski in Antarctica. He was also the first person to discover fossils on the continent.

a man in a black and white photograph
Carl Anton Larsen. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

Iced over

While Nordenskjold's men scouted the Antarctic coastline, Larsen and the rest of the expedition explored the island of South Georgia. After nine months, the Antarctic attempted to sail back to Snow Hill Island to pick up Nordenskjold's men.

But their route was completely iced over. Larsen was too seasoned to be so easily stymied and quickly came up with a backup plan. He deposited three men, led by archaeologist Gunnar Andersson, at Hope Bay on the northernmost tip of the peninsula. The party was to travel southward overland, rescue Nordenskjold and his men, and return for pickup: A 270km round trip.

Andersson's party began its journey south, but when the men reached the portion of the journey that entailed crossing sea ice, they stopped in horror. The ice they'd intended to traverse was gone. They turned around and returned to Hope Bay, but found little hope when they arrived. The Antarctic had already sailed.

Abandon ship

The dauntless Larsen hadn't given up on a Snow Hill rescue, and he steered the Antarctic back into the Weddell Sea. But the treacherous ice closed swiftly, and 45km from land, the ship was fully frozen in. The cataclysmic forces quickly did their work, and Larsen and his remaining men abandoned the ship after six weeks.

A ship stuck in ice
The 'Antarctic,' frozen in ice. Photo:  Wikimedia Commons

 

It took two weeks of nerve-wracking ice-floe hopping to reach the safety of Terra Firma. They almost didn't make it — a major storm rolled in a day after they reached Paulet Island in late February 1903. Had they still been on the ice, all 14 of the men might well have perished.

The expedition was now split into three groups: Nordenskjold's party on Snow Hill Island, Andersson's party at Hope Bay, and Larsen's party on Paulet Island.

a map
A map of the Antarctic Peninsula. "6" is Snow Hill Island. "A" is Hope Bay. "10" is Paulet Island. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

None of them had any means of communication. None of them knew the fate of the other parties. All of them were facing an Antarctic stay of unknown duration with dwindling supplies. And as far as the outside world was concerned, the Swedish Antarctic Expedition had simply vanished.

A grim winter

It was a long and difficult winter.

At Hope Bay, Andersson's party built a drafty shelter from stones, covered it with a salvaged tarpaulin, and insulated the floor with penguin skins.

At Paulet Island, Larsen's party built a similar rocky hut but at least had sailcloth to work with. They also were able to use a local population of seals for insulative animal skins.

the remains of a stone hut
The remnants of the Paulet Island hut. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

On Snow Hill Island, Nordenskjold's party, though the first to become stranded, had the most supplies and the advantage of a purpose-built shelter.

All three parties mostly lived on penguin meat as the long dark dragged on. Oil rendered down from penguin fat provided their fuel for heat and cooking — a smoky, rancid way to prepare a meal and warm the hands if ever there was one.

As spring arrived, Larsen set his sights on Hope Bay. He divided his party yet again, taking five men and rowing for the bay with the expectation of finding both Andersson's and Nordenskjold's parties awaiting him. It was a dicey five-day row, but they made it.

When Larsen arrived, all he found was an abandoned stone hut. Andersson's party had vanished.

Unlikely reunions

Again, Larsen's level head and experience prevailed. Intuiting that Andersson and his men must have overwintered at Hope Bay and then struck out overland for Snow Hill Island, Larsen and his five men hopped back in their boats and began rowing again.

Larsen had calculated correctly. When spring arrived, Andersson's men had indeed traveled south once again, this time finding enough pack ice to make the crossing to Snow Hill Island.

On Oct. 12, 1903, Nordenskjold looked up to see three shabby, heavily bearded, soot-blackened men shamble out of the white. It was Andersson's party.

At least some of the expedition was back together, but of course, none of the men now huddled on Snow Hill Island knew the Antarctic's fate.

three men in front of a hut
Andersson's party at the Snow Hill Island hut. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

They were also unaware that help was on the way. Larsen, always prepared for the worst, had made one last contingency plan — a plan that had now been activated. When the expedition made port in South America on the way to Antarctica, Larsen asked the Argentinian navy to come and search if the expedition had vanished. This they did, dispatching the Uruguay that spring. For once in nearly two years, something went right. The ice was cooperative. Two weeks after Andersson's party arrived at the hut, the Uruguay appeared at Snow Hill Island.

Overjoyed

The rescued men were overjoyed. With hands shook, pipes lit, and fresh food parceled out, rescuers and rescuees alike then turned to the final piece of the puzzle. Where were Larsen and the Antarctic? 

At that moment, and in a bit of timing so unlikely that it would be unbelievable if this story was a piece of fiction, Larsen appeared in the hut. He and his men had successfully rowed and sailed to Snow Hill Island. They'd seen the Uruguay as it approached the site.

With all the Snow Hill men now aboard, the Uruguay set sail for Paulet Island to rescue Larsen's remaining men.

In the end, all but one man from the Swedish Antarctic Expedition survived. One of Larsen's party had died of heart failure during the second winter, an event that might have occurred even without the hardships the expedition endured.

By polar disaster standards, it was an astounding feat. It speaks not only to the physical endurance of the men, but of just how well-stocked the expedition was. Even split unexpectedly into four groups, the expedition had enough leadership, experience, and proper judgment to make good calls consistently.

Aftermath

Despite the many setbacks, the Swedish Antarctic Expedition was widely hailed as a success. The men had charted much previously unexplored territory and returned home with a vast cache of geological and biological samples.

Larsen settled into the (relatively) more comfortable life of an Antarctic whaler, eventually moving his family down to a South Georgian site he'd scouted while overwintering there in 1902. He died in 1925 at the age of 64.

Nordenskjold became famous in his home country and abroad, but the personal debt he incurred as a result of his expedition haunted him for the rest of his life. He became a professor at the University of Gothenburg and mounted expeditions to Greenland, Chile, and Peru over the next two decades. He was killed in a traffic accident in 1924, at the age of 58.

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World's Largest Iceberg Might Hit South Georgia https://explorersweb.com/worlds-largest-iceberg-might-hit-south-georgia/ https://explorersweb.com/worlds-largest-iceberg-might-hit-south-georgia/#respond Fri, 24 Jan 2025 17:36:15 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101945

The world's largest iceberg might be on a collision course for South Georgia Island. If it grounds on the continental shelf there, it could seriously disrupt wildlife and shipping in the area.

A23a broke off from Antarctica's Filchner Ice Shelf in 1986. It hung around for decades in the Weddell Sea before it started to drift northward. Four years later, it became trapped in a swirling underwater vortex called a Taylor column. The mega-berg spent the months between May and December 2024 stuck in one spot, slowly rotating about 15 degrees daily. Then, just before the end of the year, it broke free and headed north again.

a map of A23a's journey
A23a has had quite an adventurous life since breaking off from an Antarctic ice shelf. It floated in the Weddell Sea for decades, got trapped in a whirlpool for months last year, broke free, and is now galloping toward South Georgia. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

Now, it appears to be on track to smack into South Georgia Island, a British Overseas Territory. Currently, A23a is about 280km from the island.

South Georgia will be familiar to many fans of polar exploration. It's the spot where Ernest Shackleton and five men landed after an incredible 1,300km open-boat journey while seeking rescue from the doomed Endurance expedition.

How to measure an iceberg

It's hard to overstate just how large A23a is. While it's lost about 400 square kilometers of its original 3,900 square kilometers, it's roughly the size of one Rhode Island, 2.2 Londons, or 1.5 million Ernest Shackletons huddled shoulder to shoulder.

A23a's walls reach as high as 400 meters, or 1,666 ship's cats standing atop one another.

"Icebergs are inherently dangerous. I would be extraordinarily happy if it just completely missed us," Simon Wallace, a local sea captain, told the BBC.

Wallace's concern is legitimate. A23a has already started to deteriorate in the relatively warmer waters it now floats through. If it grounds onto South Georgia, it will continue breaking apart, filling the water with chunks as large as sports arenas. That will be a major hazard to the fishing vessels that navigate nearby. A23a could also have an ecological impact.

giant iceberg from space
This image was taken when A23a was still 400km from South Georgia. It's considerably closer now. Photo: Copernicus Sentinel-3

 

Capacity to adapt

Icebergs grounding on South Georgia Island are relatively common because of the island's location. But the larger they are, the more catastrophic the potential.

"A close-in iceberg has massive implications for where land-based predators might be able to forage," Professor Geraint Tarling, British Antarctic Survey (BAS), explained to the BBC in 2020.

"When you're talking about penguins and seals during the period that's really crucial to them — during pup and chick-rearing — the actual distance they have to travel to find food (fish and krill) really matters. If they have to do a big detour, it means they're not going to get back to their young in time to prevent them from starving to death."

The mega-berg could also damage and disturb organisms on the ocean floor. But it's all part of the natural order, Mark Belchier, a marine ecologist who advises the South Georgian government, noted.

"South Georgia sits in Iceberg Alley, so impacts are to be expected for both fisheries and wildlife, and both have a great capacity to adapt," he said.

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Antarctica 2024-25: Season Wrap-Up https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-season-wrap-up/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-season-wrap-up/#respond Thu, 23 Jan 2025 18:29:51 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101924

The 2024-25 Antarctic expedition season ended this week. Over the last two months, skiers on six different routes attempted a mix of South Pole pushes, crossings, and climbs. While most skiers went solo and unsupported, one conducted her expedition with support, and a few more had to accept unplanned support along the way. Three Norwegian skiers tried and failed to break speed records, and an ambitious full, solo, unsupported crossing of the continent ran into trouble from the start.

Here's a recap.

Crossings

The most ambitious expedition of the year, Ashkay Nanavati's solo, unsupported crossing of Antarctica was always a long shot. The former soldier is an accomplished ultra-endurance athlete, but hauling 181kg for 2,735km over 110 days proved too much for him.

Soft snow on Berkner Island plagued the American shortly after he began, setting him immediately behind schedule. Imperfect conditions continued to put him behind as the days rolled on, forcing him to dig deep to try and make up time. In the final weeks, injuries began to crop up, forcing him into a pattern of a full day of hauling, followed by a half day, followed by a rest day. In the final week, Nanavati had conceded that he wouldn't complete his crossing but wanted to stay on the ice for his full 110 days.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Akshay Nanavati (@fearvana)

But even that plan was scrapped when he developed diverticulitis, an inflammation of the lining in the lower intestine. With symptoms like dizziness and back and gut pain setting in, Nanavati accepted a medical evacuation after 60 days and 800km.

Youngmi Kim's supported inland crossing ended successfully after 70 days when the South Korean reached her destination at the base of the Leverett Glacier. Kim's expedition began shakily, with the skier experiencing equipment difficulties and other small issues. But she found her stride, eventually settling into a problem-free groove. Kim resupplied at the South Pole and had an uneventful final half of her journey to Leverett.

Record attempts along the Hercules Inlet route

It was an exciting year for fans of Norwegian skiing, as three citizens of that country attempted to beat speed records along the 1,130km Hercules Inlet route.

Hege Victoria came the closest to success. She aborted her attempt on the women's speed record with less than 100km to go. For the first half of her expedition, Victoria was slightly behind Preet Chandi's pace from last year, but by roughly halfway, she'd drawn even with Chandi. She even managed to edge out ahead of Chandi's pace as she entered the final third of the route. Chandi's overall time had been 31 days, 13 hours, and 19 minutes.

But Victoria's margins weren't wide enough to overcome poor weather and whiteouts as she neared the Pole. As a storm set in between the 86th and 87th parallel, Victoria began slowing down. She called it quits on the speed run at the 89th parallel and completed her push to the Pole at a more sedate pace.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Hege Victoria (@hege_victoria_)

 

 

Arne-Kristian Teigland of Norway began his attempt to break Vincent Colliard’s scorching 22-day, 6-hour, 8-minute Hercules Inlet record from last year on a good footing. He stayed just ahead of Colliard's pace all the way, but a fainting spell took him out of commission after 932km. He was medically evacuated to Union Glacier and is in good health now. Teigland was well-trained and well-prepared, and his failed attempt showcases just how fast Colliard's record really is.

Kristin Harila never formally acknowledged she was going for a record, but her pace proved she had it on her mind. She cranked long days from the get-go, frequently logging over 45km. But a back injury early in the expedition proved an insurmountable hurdle. After running through all her pain meds, Harila aborted after 20 days and around 700km.

 

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A post shared by Kristin Harila (@kristin.harila)

Other skiers on the Hercules Inlet route

Skiers not attempting records along the Hercules Inlet route had mostly problem-free expeditions. Satish Gogineni, Catherine Buford, and Karen Kylleso all completed their solo, unsupported journeys with consistent skiing and no equipment malfunctions.

Meanwhile, Danish skier Rasmus Kragh will reach the Pole today. Kragh struggled to complete the distance with the food he was carrying. He eventually had to rely on an emergency food cache. When it first became apparent that Kragh was running low on food, he picked up steam and began interspersing 30km efforts with six hours of sleep. While this this strategy covered more ground, it left his body even more calorie-deficient than before, necessitating the resupply.

Messner Start to South Pole

Meanwhile, the 911km Messner Start route was not without its drama.

John Huntington finished his solo, unsupported effort strong after a mostly uneventful journey. He completed the route in 45 days, logging consistent 20km days.

Ali Riza Bilal had more trouble. Haunted by equipment failures, Bilal's biggest setback was a broken ski binding that slowed him down and caused lingering leg pain. He eventually accepted a replacement binding and additional food supplies, meaning his previously unsupported effort became supported.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Ali Rıza Bilal (@alirizabilal)

 

Bilal also struggled with the mental side of the expedition, often referencing feelings of loneliness or despair in his updates. Despite that, Bilal reached the Pole in 51 days.

Other routes

Frederick Fennessy wrapped up his 1,400km expedition from Berkner Island to the Pole after 56 days of consistent effort. Fennessy's updates often mentioned the physical effort, and he made frequent notes about the cold in the final weeks of the journey. But he logged a steady 25km daily average and completed the expedition with no injury or other setbacks.

Meanwhile, James McAlloon and guide Robert Smith's Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson summit expedition also succeeded. The pair summited Vinson on January 5 after taking a different route up the mountain than they'd planned. McAlloon had some breathing problems near the summit but not enough to abort the climb. His breathing returned to normal after descending.

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This Might Be the Rarest Penguin in the World https://explorersweb.com/this-might-be-the-rarest-penguin-in-the-world/ https://explorersweb.com/this-might-be-the-rarest-penguin-in-the-world/#respond Wed, 22 Jan 2025 15:58:57 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101875

Two thousand kilometers from the southern tip of South America sits the island of South Georgia, a Yosemite-sized piece of polar tundra boasting thriving communities of king penguins, elephant seals, and fur seals. Alongside this charismatic fauna, native birds like the South Georgia pintail duck and Antarctica's only songbird, the South Georgia pipit, coexist. And here, in 2021, Belgian nature photographer Yves Adams caught a striking yellow-gold penguin on camera.

Where normal penguins had black feathers, this one had neon yellow. The effect was probably caused by leucism, a genetic mutation that results in depigmentation. Because the penguin was never studied closely, though, it could also have been albino.

A penguin sits on the shoals, yellow where most are black.
This yellow penguin appeared in 2021 on South Georgia. Photo: Yves Adams

Mission yellow penguin

Yves Adams returned to South Georgia this year as an expedition guide, hoping to find his golden penguin once more. It was nowhere to be found.

But his expedition leader tipped him off to something even more extraordinary, Adams told IFLScience. Adams kept his eyes open, and his patience was eventually rewarded. In a flock of its peers stood a jet-black king penguin.

Besides the video above, Adams snapped a set of glamor shots of the penguin: standing solo, frolicking in the snow, and inspecting the ground with neck-elongating intensity.

Adam's black penguin is striking, but beyond that, it's also amazingly rare. In 2019, a National Geographic photographer snapped a shot of another black king penguin, this one with splashes of white on his wing. Partial melanism, when animals are mostly but not entirely black, is more common than complete melanism. Even for the 2019 penguin, an ornithologist made the journalist who contacted him swear an oath that the black penguin was real.

But Adams' new penguin isn't mostly black -- it's entirely black.

#blackoutpenguin

Up close, Adams said, the penguin's belly feathers have a greenish tint. He seemed healthy and fit in with the rest of the flock.

On Instagram, he wrote, "This one is for the penguin addicts!" In case the penguin addicts needed some help from the algorithm, he tagged the photos #gothicpenguin, #formalpenguin, and #blackoutpenguin.

The prize for his best hashtag, though, stays with his original golden penguin: #yellowpenguinlove. Well, just look at it -- it's yellow, and hard not to love.

A yellow penguin head pokes above the waves.
The yellow penguin goes for a swim. Photo: Yves Adams

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Melting Antarctic Ice Could Unleash Over 100 Hidden Volcanoes https://explorersweb.com/melting-antarctic-ice-could-unleash-over-100-hidden-volcanoes/ https://explorersweb.com/melting-antarctic-ice-could-unleash-over-100-hidden-volcanoes/#respond Mon, 20 Jan 2025 19:18:00 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101830

The rapidly melting Antarctic ice sheet could trigger the eruption of over 100 volcanoes hidden beneath the ice. The thinning ice is destabilizing the volcano's magma chambers, say scientists. The consequences could be disastrous. 

The new study analyzes the complex interplay between the melting ice and the geological formations beneath Antarctica. Using 4,000 computer simulations, scientists predicted how the decreasing ice impacts magma chambers. As the ice sheets melt, their mass plummets, and so does the pressure in the chambers. This means that the compressed magma can expand. Gases in the chambers can then escape more easily, and eruptions are more likely to happen.

Many eruptions would be hidden from view, occurring beneath the thick layers of remaining ice, but their impact could extend well beyond the polar region.

The Antarctic Peninsula. Photo: Shutterstock

 

The increased volcanic activity would create a slow feedback loop. When a volcano erupts beneath the ice, it releases heat, which further accelerates the melting. This reduces pressure on other nearby magma chambers, triggering further eruptions and ultimately affecting global climate. It would also raise sea levels and release greenhouse gases into the atmosphere.

Studying active volcanoes is a dangerous career, but it becomes nearly impossible when the volcanic eruptions occur under a thick ice sheet. Scientists must rely on ice-penetrating radar and satellite imagery to identify subglacial eruptions.

Previous studies suggest that Antarctica harbors nearly 140 volcanoes beneath the ice, waiting for an opportunity to erupt.

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Antarctic Update 2024-25: The Season Nears Its End https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-season-nears-its-end/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-season-nears-its-end/#respond Thu, 16 Jan 2025 17:56:48 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101753

Youngmi Kim's supported island crossing is nearing its finish. Skiers on the Hercules Inlet, Berkner Island, and Messner Start routes all reached the South Pole earlier this week, with one exception.

Crossing

South Korean Youngmi Kim's solo, supported inland crossing is nearly at an end. Seventy days in, she's skied 1,684km of her route's proposed 1,700km. She'll likely reach her finish at the base of the Leverett Glacier tomorrow.

Kim's been enjoying the change of scenery since resupplying at the Pole and reaching the glacier.

"The scenery of Leverett Glacier is so nice and beautiful that my eyes keep wandering around. It's a shame I have to hurry," she said in an update, likely referencing her dwindling supplies.

a tracking map
Youngmi Kim's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Indian skier Satish Gogineni finished up his polar journey in 51 days, averaging 22km per day. The skier put in consistent work on the solo, unsupported journey along the 1,130km Hercules Inlet route. Gogineni had a mostly uneventful trek, with no injuries or equipment failures to speak of.

 

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A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Danish skier Rasmus Kragh's strong 30km efforts over the last few weeks have caught up with him. Earlier this week, Kragh reported swelling and discoloration in his legs, the result of his body breaking down his muscles for energy. Calorie management has been an ongoing issue for Kragh during the final half of his polar push. On day 52, he decided to detour to a buried food cache, ending the "unsupported" part of his solo trek.

"It's not about my ego," the Dane said in an update. With food no longer an issue, he's taking it easier and is around 100km from the finish.

 

Catherine Buford of the UK reached the South Pole on day 53, putting in a solid 33km day to shuffle in at 8:30 pm. Between sips of champagne, Buford referenced Liv Arnesen, the first woman to ski solo and unsupported to the South Pole.

Buford averaged slightly over 21km per day.

a tracking map
Buford's tracking map. Photo: Screenshot

 

Norwegian Karen Kylleso also finished this week, logging just under 21km per day in 54 days.

"Now, I will spend a little time recuperating," said the 21-year-old Norwegian. Her journey has been mostly problem-free, as her brief but cheerful updates constantly indicated.

 

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A post shared by Karen Kyllesø (@friluftsjenta)

Messner Start to South Pole

Ali Riza Bilal of Turkey skied 911km from the Messner Start to the Pole in 51 days. He suffered equipment failures of all types and had to accept a resupply after a broken ski binding.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Ali Rıza Bilal (@alirizabilal)

Berkner Island to South Pole

Frederick Fennessy's 1,400km expedition from Berkner Island to the Pole concluded on January 9 after 56 days. Fennessy logged 25km days on average, powering through an "incredibly cold and tough" final few days. Fennessy says the accomplishment completes "something I've been working toward for over half a decade."

a man at the south pole
Photo: Frederick Fennessy

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Hege Victoria Halts South Pole Speed Record Attempt https://explorersweb.com/hege-victoria-halts-speed-record-attempt/ https://explorersweb.com/hege-victoria-halts-speed-record-attempt/#respond Mon, 13 Jan 2025 17:23:38 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101677

With less than 100km to go, Hege Victoria has aborted her attempt to break the woman's speed record to the South Pole. She will still finish her expedition, though at a slower pace.

The Norwegian woman had been attempting to ski the 1,130km Hercules Inlet to South Pole route in less than 31 days, 13 hours, and 19 minutes -- the time set by Preet Chandi last year.

During Victoria's first few weeks on the ice, she lagged just a few kilometers behind Chandi. Early last week, she pulled even, then slightly ahead. But the lead she managed to eke out wasn't significant enough to overcome the slowdowns since the 86th parallel. Sastrugi, whiteouts, and, above all, weather played their part in the last-minute failure. Eventually, the outcome was obvious.

"89 degrees south. Hege Victoria chose today to calm down with some rest when she realized that it was not possible to reach the South Pole within the record time," her team wrote in an Instagram post. "The weather is the rule, and she can't do anything about it. According to [explorer and polar travel coach] Lars Ebbesen, she has been unlucky and has had a lot of demanding weather since 86/87 degrees."

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Hege Victoria (@hege_victoria_)

 

No records this year

With Victoria's effort halted, the speed record season in Antarctica draws to a close. Arne-Kristian Teigland’s push to break Vincent Colliard's 22-day, 6-hour, 8-minute Hercules Inlet record from last year ended after 932km. Tiegland was medically evacuated after a fainting spell. Until the incident, he'd remained ahead of Colliard's pace.

Shortly before that, fellow Norwegian skier Kristin Harila bowed out after logging monumental early days on the ice but incurring a back injury in the process. After skiing through the pain for weeks (and running out of painkillers), Harilia called it quits after 20 days.

Unlike those two, it appears that Victoria will continue toward the Pole — this time, without the pressures of a ticking clock.

 

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A post shared by Hege Victoria (@hege_victoria_)

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Antarctic Update 2024-25: Victoria on Pace for Record, Nanavati's Full Crossing Fails https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-hege-victoria-approaches-the-pole/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-hege-victoria-approaches-the-pole/#respond Thu, 09 Jan 2025 18:44:28 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101555

Norwegian speedster Hege Victoria is "a few kilometers ahead" of the current women's Hercules Inlet to South Pole record, with a likely finish over the weekend. Ashkay Nanavati's full crossing attempt ended with a medical evac. Meanwhile, non-record-attempt skiers are approaching the finish line.

Crossings

American Ashkay Nanavati's solo, unsupported, full crossing has finished less than one-third of the way into his journey. Nanavati was evacuated after 60 days and 803km of his proposed 115-day, 2,736km expedition across the full Antarctic landmass via the South Pole.

Nanavati is now back at Union Glacier, being treated for diverticulitis, an inflammation of the pouches along the wall of the large intestine. This condition was likely the cause of the back and gut pain Nanavati reported throughout the week.

Nanavati came within a whisker of being medically evacuated days earlier, only getting the go-ahead from the Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions doctor after the symptoms he was experiencing abated slightly.

During that time, Nanavati had fallen into a pattern: A full day of skiing, a half day of skiing, and then a full recovery day. Although he recognized that his crossing was "an impossibility," he hoped to put in as much time as possible on the ice. You can see his palpable disappointment in the video below, recorded while he waited for evacuation.

 

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A post shared by Akshay Nanavati (@fearvana)

Kim nears her finish

After resupplying at the South Pole last week, South Korean Youngmi Kim is on the home stretch of her solo, supported inland crossing. After 1,483km of her route's 1,700km, she's inching closer and closer to her destination at the base of the Leverett Glacier.

a tracking map
Youngmi Kim's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

As Norwegian Hege Victoria gets closer to the Pole in her speed record attempt along the 1,130km Hercules Inlet route, her team's updates have become more frequent. Victoria is attempting to beat Preet Chandi's 31-day, 13-hour, 19-minute effort from last year. At last word four days ago, her team said she was "a few kilometers ahead" of Chandi.

In the last week, she's powered through whiteout, elevation gain, and sastrugi, but is coming to a portion of the route where the last two factors should abate. Look for a finish sometime this weekend — probably Saturday, December 11.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Hege Victoria (@hege_victoria_)

 

Indian skier Satish Gogineni recently crossed the 89th parallel and is roughly 109km from the Pole. He'll likely reach it over the weekend as well, if he stays on his current pace of approximately 30km a day.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Danish skier Rasmus Kragh's 30km, 6-hours of sleep, 30km cycle continues. He recently crossed the 88th parallel with 237km to go. The ordinarily verbose Kragh has been a bit sparser in his recent updates as he focuses on daily kilometers, rest, and reaching the Pole.

 

UK skier Catherine Buford will end today just shy of the 89th parallel, having skied 1,005km as of this writing. Like most other skiers, she continues to improve her overall daily average. Over the last three weeks, she's increased from 18km to just under 20km a day.

a tracking map
Buford's tracking map. Photo: Screenshot

 

Speaking of the 89th parallel, Norwegian Karen Kylleso crossed it late yesterday and has just under 100km to go. At her current pace, that puts her about five days away from the South Pole.

a tracking map
Kylleso's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Messner Start to South Pole

Turkish skier Ali Riza Bilal will likely reach the Pole today or tomorrow. After recovering from a minor navigational error last week, Bilal has made good time and is somewhere between 20 and 30km from his destination.

a tracking map
Bilal's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

John Huntington reached the Pole after 45 days of consistent skiing. Huntington suffered a debilitating stroke 10 years ago, leaving him with left-side paralysis from the neck down and many years of rehab to regain his mobility. This made dealing with sastrugi a particular challenge. But he averaged 20km a day when all was said and done.

His last update before reaching the finish was dry and typical.

"I'm quite looking forward to some fresh food," he said, "and being able to use a real toilet again would be a real treat."

Berkner Island to South Pole

Frederick Fennessy of the UK is also nearing the end of his 1,400km expedition to the Pole from Berkner Island. He's currently skied 1,349km in 56.5 days. His last update was on January 2, where he noted slow progress through sastrugi. If he stays on pace, he'll finish over the weekend.

a tracking map
Fennessy's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson Summit

On January 5, James McAlloon and guide Robert Smith reached a milestone in their Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson summit expedition. The pair summited Vinson, the tallest mountain in Antarctica at 4,892m.

"We ended up taking a more direct, much steeper route [than we had originally planned]," McAlloon wrote on January 6.

The pair considered climbing a few other peaks along the way, but McAlloon was "having a few breathing problems yesterday," so they opted out. McAlloon added that his breathing has since returned to normal.

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Antarctic Update 2024-25: Two Norwegian Speedsters Bow Out https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-norwegian-speedsters-bow-out/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-norwegian-speedsters-bow-out/#respond Fri, 03 Jan 2025 12:59:59 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101429

Arne-Kristian Teigland, who was on pace to grab the men's Hercules Inlet to South Pole speed record, fainted yesterday and was evacuated. Norwegian Kristin Harila has also ended her solo, unsupported speed effort after weeks of struggling with a back injury. Youngmi Kim has reached the South Pole, resupplied, and made the turn for the final part of her inland crossing. And skiers along the Hercules Inlet and Messner Start routes are nearing the Pole.

Crossings

"I feel like I finally got back into a polar rhythm after a very tough week," American Ashkay Nanavati recorded recently. "Last week was brutal. I mean, absolutely brutal. There were a few unplanned half-days, there was an unplanned recovery day, it was very challenging both mentally and physically."

The source of Nanavati's exhaustion — aside from manhauling enough gear to complete his 2,736km solo, unsupported, full crossing in 110 to 115 days — is a recent storm that dumped several inches of soft snow into his path. But Nanavati noted that conditions are improving once again. With the hardships of the last week, Nanavati's daily pace has continued to hover at 14.5km/day. He's currently 53.5 days and 773km into his full crossing.

a tracking map
Nanavati's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

South Korean Youngmi Kim's solo, supported inland crossing passed a huge milestone this week. The skier reached the South Pole, resupplied, and turned sharply toward her endpoint at the Ross Ice Shelf.

a woman holds up her skis at the south pole
Youngmi Kim at the Pole. Photo: Youngmi Kim

 

While her photos from the Pole show an ecstatic Kim holding her skis aloft and waving the South Korean flag, her text update was more measured.

"Receipt of supplies from the South Pole to Leverett Glacier, and a new route to 89 degrees latitude begins today!" she wrote.

The South Korean has skied 1,294km in 56.5 days, with just over 400km left to go.

A tracking map
Youngmi Kim's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Yesterday, Arne-Kristian (AK) Teigland's social media account announced that the Norwegian's speed record attempt along the Hercules Inlet to South Pole route had ended.

"The expedition to the South Pole ended with a little drama, January 2. AK got sick during the march and fainted on the ice. He found the tent and alerted ALE that was [sic] about to fly him out. He's going to a medical at Union Glacier and is doing well," the post read.

Manager Lars Ebbesen has also confirmed to ExplorersWeb that Teigland is "doing fine."

Tiegland skied 932km of the 1,130km route, staying slightly ahead of Frenchman Vincent Colliard's camps from last season. Colliard managed the run in 22 days, 6 hours, and 8 minutes — a record that will now stand at least until next year. With just 200km -- just a few days -- before finishing, Tiegland will be deeply disappointed.

a tracking map
Teigland's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

After suffering a back injury early in her expedition, then skiing through the pain until she ran out of painkillers, Norwegian Kristin Harila has decided to end her solo, unsupported pole push.

“Choosing to end the expedition after 20 days was a very difficult decision. Part of me wants to continue this adventure. The other part of me is trying to listen to the advice of doctors and think long-term,” she said.

While she never formally announced her intentions to beat Preet Chandi's 31-day, 13-hour, 19-minute record from last year, it appeared that was indeed her intention. Harila's daily kilometer averages were just under where they needed to be, and she consistently logged 45km+ days in the week before she quit.

Hege Victoria's updates from her attempt on the same record remain sparse. There's no publicly available tracking map, and her last update to her website was from day nine of her expedition, nearly two weeks ago. However, a Norwegian-language Instagram account that has been following Norwegian Antarctic expeditions this year showed a graphic that placed Victoria at 579km on day 16. That's 36km a day, so almost exactly on pace with Chandi. But that was six days ago.

 

Satish Gogineni needs to make the Pole in 10 days, so he's continuing to pick up his pace despite a few cloudy, low-visibility days. On day 41, he managed to log 30km.

"The next three or four days are going to be challenging," he noted. "Lots of elevation gain, lots of sastrugi."

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Danish skier Rasmus Kragh has turned up the gas, logging 30km+ days for the last five days. According to his most recent Facebook post, the skier made the decision to do so after counting out his supplies on day 29 and realizing he'd either need to ration carefully or increase his daily distance.

"Went into a cycle — 30km, then a minimum of 6 hours of sleep, regardless of the time of the day. The sun is just running around in circles over my head. I released myself from the mental barrier, and it feels amazing," he wrote.

 

"A new year and a new degree for me," UK skier Catherine Buford said the evening after she crossed the 87th parallel. Buford's been battling sastrugi as she closes in on the pole. But she has still managed to edge her overall daily average up to 19.5km, up from last week's 18km.

a tracking map
Buford's tracking map. Photo: Screenshot

 

Norwegian Karen Kylleso has also slightly picked up steam, increasing her average to 20.2km over last week's 19.5km. She's 872km in as day 43 draws to a close, and she's creeping up on the 88th parallel.

a tracking map
Kylleso's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Messner Start to South Pole

Turkish skier Ali Riza Bilal has traveled 759km of the Messner Start's 911km and is nearing the end of his equipment-failure-prone expedition.

Bilal's latest setback, however, wasn't gear-related. The skier took a major turn off course, visible on the tracking map below (just to the right of the audio volume symbol). Luckily, an employee of ZeroSixZero, the tracking map application commonly used by Antarctic expeditions, noticed the turn and notified Bilal's wife, who told the skier.

Bilal is now back on track and still managing to put in 20km days.

a tracking map
Bilal's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Englishman John Huntington has crossed the 89th parallel and is now on a straight shot for the geographical bottom of the world. At 816km as of day 43, Huntington has less than 100km to go.

The skier experienced plunging temperatures and high winds on day 41. He had to wear his full cold-weather getup for the first time.

a tracking map
Huntington's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Berkner Island to South Pole

At 1,147km, English skier Frederick Fennessy is only 250km away from completing his 1,400km Berkner Island to South Pole expedition. It's taken him 49 days so far, at a respectable average of 23.4km per day.

Fennessey experienced a "humbling and arduous" day this week, with whiteout conditions combining with sastrugi to make "skiing incredibly slow." Fennessy said he fell over more times than he can count and spent the bulk of his day righting his tipped sled. He also noted the increasingly cold temperatures as he nears the Pole.

A tracking map
Fennessy's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson Summit

James McAlloon and guide Robert Smith's Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson summit expedition is 14 days and 210km deep — meaning the team is on the mountain and about to swap their sleds for backpacks. In a January 1 audio update, Smith said the pair were planning an acclimatization rest day on January 2. From there, the mountaineering begins.

a tracking map
Mcalloon's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

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An Injured Kristin Harila Calls it Quits on South Pole Speed Push https://explorersweb.com/kristin-harila-quits-speedy-south-pole-push/ https://explorersweb.com/kristin-harila-quits-speedy-south-pole-push/#respond Tue, 31 Dec 2024 16:53:22 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101381

Kristin Harila has bowed out of her solo, unsupported, 1,130km Hercules Inlet to South Pole ski expedition, citing back pain from an injury incurred early in her attempt.

"Choosing to end the expedition after 20 days was a very difficult decision. Part of me wants to continue this adventure. The other part of me is trying to listen to the advice of doctors and think long-term," the skier and mountaineer posted on her website.

Harila posted text updates infrequently during her expedition, but she mentioned back pain several times in the early going. Soon, she was taking painkillers daily. Her last update didn't mention her injury, and she'd been skiing increasingly hefty daily distances, leading to hope that her injury had cleared.

In the week before she pulled the plug, she was averaging 48km per day. According to her website, Harila recently ran out of painkillers, a contributing factor to her decision to end the journey.

A speed record attempt?

Harila's background is in cross-country skiing, though she is best known for climbing the world's 14 highest peaks in a whirlwind 92 days in 2023, guided by Tenjen Sherpa. Tenjen died in an avalanche a few weeks after completing the effort with Harila.

Harila never stated she was trying to break Preet Chandi’s 2023 Hercules Inlet to South Pole women's speed record of 31 days, 13 hours, 19 minutes. But it seemed obvious to seasoned polar expedition observers that she had her eyes on the prize. Harila skied about 700km over her 20 days on the ice, averaging 35km daily. That's just under Chandi's daily average of 36km.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Kristin Harila (@kristin.harila)

 

Had Harila maintained +45km days in the final run to the Pole — as was her plan — she'd likely have snagged the record.

"The silver lining is that I can cheer for all the other Norwegians, especially the incredibly strong women trekking solo to the South Pole this season," Harila wrote. "I'm crossing my fingers for Hege Victoria and for Karen [Kylleso], who is only 22 years old and doing an amazing job."

Victoria has publicly announced her intention to break Chandi's record and is currently skiing towards the Pole on the Hercules Inlet route. However, she keeps her daily distances and overall progress tightly under wraps.

Kylleso is on a solo, unsupported expedition along the same route. She is skiing strongly but is not attempting a speed record.

"I'm also very impressed by Arene-Kristian," Harila continued, referring to the Norwegian skier currently on track to beat Frenchman Vincent Colliard’s men's speed record from last season. To do so, Teigland will need to reach the pole in under 22 days, 6 hours, and 8 minutes.

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Antarctic Update 2024-25: Skiers Find Their Stride and Dream of Holiday Food https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-skiers-are-finding-their-stride/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25-skiers-are-finding-their-stride/#respond Thu, 26 Dec 2024 14:00:30 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101284

A few speed record attempts have passed the halfway point and are on track to succeed. Other skiers on the Hercules Inlet, Messner Start, and Berkner Island routes are increasing their daily distance — but the holiday week has them daydreaming of better food. The Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson Summit expedition has begun.

Crossings

American Ashkay Nanavati hasn't posted an audio message since ExplorersWeb's last update a week ago. The skier is attempting a 2,736km full crossing of the Antarctic continent and is now 47 days and 699km deep into the solo, unsupported effort. In our last update, we mentioned that Nanavati had increased his daily average to 14.5km, a trend he needed to continue for his expedition to succeed.

Nanavati has done just that in the last week, edging his average daily distance up to 14.9km. Nanavati will cross the 84th parallel this week.

a tracking map
Nanavati's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

South Korean Youngmi Kim is nearing the South Pole and resupply on her supported inland crossing. Fresh supplies will make the sled heavy again at first, but skiing downhill away from the Pole is easier than skiing uphill toward it.

Kim's updates have been workmanlike in the last week — chronicles of hauling, sleeping, and eating. Relative inexperience led to equipment issues early in her journey, but she seems to have settled in at this point. She's covered 1,098km in 49 days so far.

a tracking map
Youngmi Kim's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

At the end of day 12, Norwegian Arne-Kristian (AK) Teigland remains slightly ahead of Frenchman Vincent Colliard's speed record from last season. Teigland is attempting to ski the 1,130km Hercules Inlet to South Pole route in under 22 days, 6 hours, and 8 minutes. He has to average a formidable 54km per day.

Last week, Tiegland's tracker didn't show the total distance traveled, but now it does. He's averaging 47.6km per day. Colliard picked up the pace as he approached the South Pole, and Tiegland will need to do the same.

Teigland reported headwinds in a recent update but also noted a recent flattening of the terrain as "delicious."

a tracking map
Teigland's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Norwegian Kristin Harila is also obviously going for a record, in her case, Preet Chandi's 31-day, 13-hour, 19-minute effort from last year. Harila needs to average 36km/day to do it. Her total distance traveled has also reappeared on her tracking map, meaning we now have a better idea of how she's doing. She's exactly on pace — averaging just over 36km/day. Seventeen days and 618km in, she's over the halfway point.

a tracking map
Harila's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Back pain slowed Harila down in the first week and a half. On December 25, she made her first update in five days and didn't mention any pain but noted she'd skied over 45km per day during that period. Maybe the injury has finally cleared up?

Hege Victoria, also from Norway and also going for the women's speed record, is keeping her distances more tightly under wraps, which is not unusual for a record attempt. Her last update was five days ago, at the end of day nine.

"Have been two pretty demanding days with whiteout, I don't see the difference between ground and sky, I walk completely blind, and with lots of sastrugi," she reported. "A few miles behind Preet, but there's a long way to go. This is only camp 9, so hoping for blue skies and sunshine so I can see where I'm going."

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Hege Victoria (@hege_victoria_)

 

Satish Gogineni continues to pick up his pace, taking advantage of clear weather and a windless day to put in 29km on day 33, his best effort so far. Also settling in and finding his glide, Gogineni said he "didn't even push it" to log the kilometers.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Danish skier Rasmus Kragh has continued to increase his speed and is now averaging just under 18km per day.  At the end of day 35, he'd covered 627km. In his recent posts, the skier has obsessed over food and noted his increasing difficulty with self-discipline around his supplies.

a tracking map
Kragh's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Catherine Buford of the UK is halfway between the 85th and 86th parallels at the end of day 35. She's skied 635km so far, averaging 18km per day, also an increase. Like almost every other skier this week, Buford mentioned daydreaming about Christmas food as the holiday rolled around.

"I'm having to distract myself about that," she said, sounding (understandably) a tad morose in her audio update.

a tracking map
Buford's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

With youth and plenty of skiing experience on her side, Norwegian Karen Kylleso has increased her daily average from 18km to 19.5km over the last week. She'll cross the 86th parallel today and has skied 681km so far. Her text updates almost always just say, "Had a nice day on the trip," then end with a smiley face.

a tracking map
Kylleso's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Messner Start to South Pole

Ali Riza Bilal of Turkey had equipment difficulties during the first half of his expedition, but that was finally solved a week and a half ago when Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions left him a replacement ski binding at a fuel depot. But the binding issues slowed him down, and his daily average for the 911km Messner Start to South Pole journey is hovering at 17.5km as of day 35. He also has some nagging ankle pain left over from the malfunction.

Still, since fixing his equipment, he's picked up his pace, consistently hitting 20km+ in the last week.

a tracking map
Bilal's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Englishman John Huntington has increased his daily average to 18.5km and is now 650km into the route.

"For the first day of Christmas...loads of hills and sastrugi," the skier noted wryly on December 25. Those are two things Ali Riza Bilal also commented on in his updates. The two skiers are in roughly similar locations, so that tracks.

a tracking map
Huntington's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Berkner Island to South Pole

English skier Frederick Fennessy is 959km into his 1,400km Berkner Island to South Pole journey, well over the halfway mark. A consistent skier, Fennessy never logs a day below 20km and has inched his average up to 23km per day.

Fennessy is a week into a "relentless" sastrugi field. "Every time I see it thinning out, it just comes back with a vengeance," he noted.

a tracking map
Fennessy's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson Summit

James McAlloon and Robert Smith's Constellation Inlet to Mt. Vinson summit expedition has begun. The journey is a hybrid effort, combining a 400km ski to the base of Vinson with a climb to the top of the mountain. McAloon and Smith expect the ski portion to take 20 days, with the 4,892m ascent of vision comprising five to 10 days.

The skiers reported mild weather and no wind in the early days of the expedition but haven't updated in five days. As of day six, they'd covered 143km, so an average of 24km per day.

a tracking map
Mcalloon's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

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Flat Earthers Puzzled by Observable Evidence That the Earth Is Not Flat https://explorersweb.com/flat-earthers-puzzled-by-observable-evidence-that-earth-not-flat/ https://explorersweb.com/flat-earthers-puzzled-by-observable-evidence-that-earth-not-flat/#respond Fri, 20 Dec 2024 17:32:30 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101120

In a project dubbed The Final Experiment, a group of Flat Earth proponents traveled to Antarctica at the height of summer in the southern hemisphere, expecting to witness the sun go down. It went almost exactly like you'd expect, with at least one person cautiously admitting a few pillars of his beliefs had been shaken. But others held fast to a concept that's been negated in ways both theoretical and practical for two-and-a-half millennia.

a man points at the sun in Antarctica
Will Duffy, left, who is not a Flat Earther, thought his project would convince the Flat Earth community how wrong they are. Photo: Screenshot

 

Let's pause here for a moment.

For any of this to make even a lick of sense, you are going to have to learn a little something about what the Flat Earth movement believes. Here it is in bullet points, so we don't have to spend more time on it than absolutely necessary.

  • Flat Earthers still exist, and they believe we live on a disc instead of a globe.
  • They have all kinds of reasons for this, none of which are very good.
  • One of their beliefs is that Antarctica is a narrow strip of land that circles the "disc," with a gigantic sea in the middle. All the rest of the continents exist in the middle of this gigantic sea.
  • Because of this, there is no such thing as 24-hour sunshine in Antarctica. It would have to get dark somewhere along that big ring island.
  • A powerful group of [insert a variety of conspiracy theories here] have banded together to keep Flat Earthers from visiting Antarctica to prove this.

Here's a helpful depressing visual aid.

a flat earth illustration
Flat Earthers believe Antarctica is the white rim around the disc. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Hope is the thing with feathers (that shuts its eyes when it sees the curvature of the Earth)

Enter Will Duffy, the pastor of a small church outside of Boulder, Colorado. Duffy proposed The Final Experiment — a project that ultimately took Duffy, four Flat Earth influencers (yes, that's a thing), and four round earthers (otherwise known as regular people) to Union Glacier, Antarctica, earlier this month. There, they observed the 24-hour sun firsthand. Then they recorded a 50-minute YouTube livestream.

"I created The Final Experiment to end this debate once and for all. After we go to Antarctica, no one has to waste any more time debating the shape of the Earth," Duffy, in one of the most charmingly naive statements ever voiced in the internet age, said of the project.

But don't get Duffy wrong. He's no Flat Earther. His intention seems to have been the genuine offer of a directly observable piece of evidence — one that Flat Earthers couldn't ignore or explain away via tangled conspiracy theory.

That's commendable, but unfortunately for Duffy and humanity's chances of ever making it into the United Federation of Planets, that's not how this works. That's not how any of this works.

"Sometimes you are wrong in life"

At least one Flat Earth influencer — Jeran Campanella, and no, I'm not going to link to his YouTube — was willing to make a small concession.

"Sometimes you are wrong in life," Campanella said in the video. "I thought there was no 24-hour sun. In fact, I was pretty sure of it. I realize that I'll be called a shill for just saying that, and you know what, if you're a shill for being honest, so be it — I honestly believed there was no 24-hour sun. I honestly now believe there is."

You have to give Campanella this; he knows his people. Shrieks of "shill" immediately echoed across the live stream chat window. Campanella then hedged, making it clear that the existence of a 24-hour sun does not negate his flat earth beliefs. It merely provides him and others with an unexplainable phenomenon.

Other Flat Earthers on the expedition had similar views. They couldn't deny what they witnessed but expressed confidence that it would somehow fit into their existing worldview, given enough time and "research." Even this slight nod to reality was a bridge too far for many viewers, who spent a good deal of time talking about green screens.

So it goes.

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World's Largest Iceberg Finally Escapes Antarctic Vortex, Drifts Slowly Toward Doom https://explorersweb.com/worlds-largest-iceberg-finally-escapes-antarctic-vortex-drifts-slowly-toward-doom/ https://explorersweb.com/worlds-largest-iceberg-finally-escapes-antarctic-vortex-drifts-slowly-toward-doom/#respond Fri, 20 Dec 2024 12:41:07 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101110

A23a, the world's largest and oldest iceberg, has spent most of the past year stuck in one spot, spinning slowly in a circle. Now, just in time for the New Year, it's gotten its act together and is once again on the move. This is a natural and observable scientific phenomenon and totally not a metaphor for your life.

The mega-berg, which has been rotating about 15 degrees per day just north of the South Orkney Islands since May 2024, has broken free of the Taylor column that held it in place and is moving inexorably towards its eventual destruction in warmer waters.

A Taylor column is a column of water rotating above an underwater mountain and which traps objects on the surface in place. A23a fell into such a trap early last year. Before that, A23a was part of Antarctica's Filchner Ice Shelf.

It calved from the shelf in 1986 and grounded in shallow water in the Weddell Sea shortly thereafter. Finally breaking free from the ocean floor in 2020, A23a drifted around for several years before heading northward. But the Taylor column caught it, and it's been slowly completing one rotation every 24 days since. Until mid-December, that is, when scientists noticed it had at last broken its watery shackles.

“It’s exciting to see A23a on the move again," Dr. Andrew Meijers, an oceanographer at the British Antarctic Survey (BAS). "We are interested to see if it will take the same route [as] the other large icebergs that have calved off Antarctica."

Depending on how you like to measure your icebergs, A23a spans an area about the size of one Rhode Island, two Londons, or 35,893,440 average-sized sheep standing shoulder to shoulder and snout to tail. Approximately.

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Antarctic Update 2024-25: Three Record Attempts Now In Progress https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25record-attempts-now-in-swing/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-update-2024-25record-attempts-now-in-swing/#respond Thu, 19 Dec 2024 19:09:08 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101084

Three Norwegians are now attempting speed records along the Hercules Inlet to South Pole route. Arne-Kristian Teigland is hoping to beat Frenchman Vincent Colliard's record of last year, while Kristin Harila and Hege Victoria are both vying for Preet Chandi's women's record, also set last year.

Crossings

Ashkay Nanavati notched a win on his ambitious unsupported 110-day, 2,736km full crossing after passing the Wujek Ridge, the steepest portion of his route.

"The three days on Berkner were still the hardest part of the trip," the solo skier noted in his most recent update. Nanavati lost valuable time on Berkner due to the unexpectedly deep snow. "But it is still great to be done with [Wujek Ridge]," he continued.

Nanavati took an "active recovery day" after making it up Wujek's incline. He still skied a full day but purposefully moved more slowly to let his legs recover from the effort. Despite soft snow, Nanavati has managed to log some longer distances lately (17km to 20km daily), something he will desperately need to increase if he hopes to complete a solo, unsupported full crossing. Currently, he's 40 days in.

With his recent run, Nanavati has inched his daily travel up to 14.5km/day from last week's 14km/day. To complete a 2,736km journey in 110 days, he needs to average almost 25km/day.

a tracking map
Nanavati's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Youngmi Kim is creeping ever closer to her South Pole resupply point on her solo, supported inland crossing. The South Korean began at Hercules Inlet and will finish at the edge of the Ross Ice Shelf, a journey of 1,700km.

The last week of her travel featured difficult terrain. Her update from December 14 says it all in just three words: "Sastrugi, sastrugi, sastrugi!"

But in her December 17 post, she mentions the wind-sculpted features have abated for now. Forty-two days in, Kim has skied 919km.

a tracking map
Youngmi Kim's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Norwegian Arne-Kristian (AK) Teigland finally began his attempt on the men's Hercules Inlet to South Pole speed record this week. Vincent Colliard set the record last year. Teigland will need to travel the 1,130km route in under 22 days, 6 hours, and 8 minutes, or roughly 54km a day.

Teigland's tracker isn't showing the daily or total distance traveled. However, Teigland's map shows each of Colliard's camps, and the Norwegian has been slightly ahead of the Frenchman at each nightly stop.

a tracking map
Teigland's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Teigland recently suffered a poor night's sleep and a corresponding disappointing showing the next day. But he still ended that day ahead of Colliard.

Norwegian Kristin Harila still has not formally announced her intention to set the women's speed record on the same route, but judging from her pace, we assume that she is. Harila is 11 days into her push. On day nine, she noted that she faced strong winds, only managing 30km in 10 hours.

a tracking map
Harila's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Day 10 saw improving conditions, allowing Harila to use her skiing background to rack up 45km in 14 hours. She has generally put in 30km+ days, with many over 36km. That puts her in a decent spot to grab the record. Chandi averaged 36km/day when she set her record of 31 days, 13 hours, and 19 minutes last year.

However, for the last week, Harila has mentioned persistent lower back pain. That this injury hasn't resolved itself is a worrying sign for the athlete's effort. The coming week will give us a better idea of Harila's chances.

Hege Victoria rounds out the Norwegian speedsters. She is also attempting to beat Chandi's female record. Her only voice update so far was from December 16, on the morning of day six of her attempt:

"My body is good, the first four days have been tough. A lot of snow you have to wade through, and the sled is still heavy, so it's been a bit of a struggle," she said, echoing typical sentiments shared by Hercules Inlet skiers. "But now that I'm coming up, hopefully it will be harder and more slippery so I can cover even more kilometers."

In the past, skiers attempting to break records have sometimes been cagey about their daily distances and locations. ExplorersWeb can't find any tracking information on Victoria, and she didn't include hard numbers in her update.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Hege Victoria (@hege_victoria_)

 

In his update at the end of day 25, Satish Gogineni mentioned he'd logged 27km, his best so far. Gogineni is about 410km into his South Pole expedition. He's pleased with his gradually increasing daily distances, and improving snow conditions are making things easier for him. He did mention that his sled flipped a few times yesterday -- a typical issue around sastrugi.

"Every time it did, I got a break [from skiing]," he said, looking on the bright side.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Danish skier Rasmus Kragh has picked up the pace after struggling last week and seems to be in better spirits than he was in our last update. He managed to squeeze in a few 25km days, a much-needed improvement given that last week he reported diminishing food supplies. Just over the 84th parallel, he's covered 475km in 29.5 days. That's a current average of 16km/day.

a tracking map
Kragh's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

English skier Catherine Buford started on the same day as Kragh and is a little behind him at 448km.

Buford had a rough mental day, she reported in her most recent update. Nightmares led to poor sleep. Then, like several other skiers in the last week, her sled flipped on ice, and she had a "minor, could have been a major, disaster when I had a fuel leakage," she reported.

Her audio signal dropped out when she noted how much fuel she lost but picked back up in time for ExplorersWeb to learn that no food was contaminated. Judging by her description of the leakage as "minor," we can guess that she still has enough to reach the Pole.

a tracking map
Buford's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Of the skiers on the Hercules inlet route, Norwegian Karen Kylleso is the farthest along. She started on the same day as Buford and Kragh, so she's 29.5 days in and has covered 523km, averaging almost 18km/day.

a tracking map
Kylleso's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Messner Start to South Pole

Turkish skier Ali Riza Bilal has crossed the halfway point of his journey, covering 470 of the 911 kilometers along the Messner Start to South Pole route. He's 29.5 days in. A malfunctioning ski binding has been the bane of Bilal's existence for the last few weeks, and his updates during that time were uniformly dour. But four days ago, he finally got some relief.

Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions left Bilal a ski binding and five days' worth of food at a fuel depot, and the gear fix has made a world of difference to the skier. His daily distance has bounced back to roughly 25km/day.

a tracking map
Bilal's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

English skier John Huntington crossed the 86th parallel a few days ago and is more than halfway through the route. After a physically demanding start, Huntington has settled into a 20km+ daily groove and is happy with his progress.

Huntington's tracker.
Huntington's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Berkner Island to South Pole

"It's been a good few days of skiing. It's flattened out quite a bit," Frederick Fennessy reported on the night of day 34. The English skier is on a 1,400km Berkner Island to South Pole route and has about a month more travel ahead of him. He's skied 755km, which puts him close to his halfway mark.

Fennessy has been on a steady 20km+/day pace for the whole expedition so far.

a tracking map
Fennessy's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

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December 18, 1966: The First Ascent of Mount Vinson https://explorersweb.com/december-18-1966-the-first-ascent-of-mount-vinson/ https://explorersweb.com/december-18-1966-the-first-ascent-of-mount-vinson/#respond Wed, 18 Dec 2024 16:26:28 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=101026

Today is the 58th anniversary of the first ascent of 4,892m Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica.

Antarctica has three main mountain ranges. The Antarctic Peninsula Cordillera runs the full length of the Antarctic Peninsula. Further south lie the Ellsworth Mountains. Finally, the Transantarctic Mountains run north to south, splitting the continent into East and West Antarctica. Mount Vinson is in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains.

The Ellsworth Mountains run 360km from north to south beside the Ronne Ice Shelf and are 48km wide. The northern half of the Ellsworth Mountains is called the Sentinel Range. It features 33 peaks. The next highest peak after Vinson is 4,852m Mount Tyree.

map of Antarctica with its mountains
Antarctica and its mountains. The red dot marks the location of Mount Vinson. Photo: MountainIQ

The Vinson Massif

In his book Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing in the Frozen South, Damien Gildea described the Vinson Massif as "a great white bulk of terrain around 15km long by 15km wide...crowned with numerous small peaks situated around a high, windswept plateau of bare ice, from which several long ridges drop down to the surrounding glaciers."

Mount Vinson was named after U.S. Senator Carl G. Vinson for his support of U.S. activity in Antarctica during the mid-20th century. In fact, researchers had already proposed the name "Vinson" for Antarctica's highest mountain even before explorers found it.

Until 2006, Antarctica’s highest mountain was called Vinson Massif rather than Mount Vinson. In 2006, after several climbing and GPS mapping expeditions in the Sentinel Range, researchers suggested that Mount Vinson should specifically denote the highest summit of this massif. The Antarctic Place Names Committee of the U.S. Geological Survey accepted the proposal.

Some of the big mountains in the Sentinel Range.
Some of the big mountains in the Sentinel Range. Photo: John Evans

The discovery of the Vinson Massif

On Nov. 23, 1935, American aviator Lincoln Ellsworth flew over the Sentinel Range. But thick clouds meant he could only spot only one small peak. He named it Mount Ulmer after his wife, Marie Louise Ulmer.

Antarctica’s highest mountains remained almost completely unknown until the 1950s. In 1957, a U.S. Navy flight spotted the peaks of the Vinson Massif.

In January 1958, a U.S. Navy flight from Byrd Station sighted high mountains further east in Ellsworth Land. During the 1958-59 season, a ground party headed in this direction and found mountains that seemed higher than anything yet discovered on the coldest continent. This was the Vinson Massif.

In 1961, U.S. scientists Tom Bastien and John Splettstoesser climbed 2,370m Mount Wyatt Earp at the northern end of the Sentinel Range. Researchers explored Union Glacier and nearby areas in 1963 and 1964 but did not make any significant ascents.

A Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp.
A Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp. Photo: Damien Gildea

A coveted target

In 1960-61, The Mountain World published a picture of the Vinson Massif and proclaimed it the highest peak in Antarctica.

"Independently, and very nearly simultaneously, this generated interest among the [climbing] groups in the United States,” Brian Marts wrote in the American Alpine Journal.

It was a tempting target. Mount Vinson remained unclimbed, and the whole range was untouched except for geologists' ventures onto lower peaks.

One climbing group approached the problem of obtaining permission and support with a scientifically oriented expedition proposal, while another appealed strictly from a mountaineering standpoint.

In September 1966, Nicholas Clinch, the only American to lead a first ascent of an 8,000’er (Gasherbrum I in 1958), received a phone call. The U.S. government would grant the American Alpine Club permission for an expedition to Antarctica, and Clinch would lead it.

The two climbing groups hoping to make the first ascent of the Vinson Massif were merged to form the American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition. The team included J. Barry Corbet, Eiichi Fukushima, Brian Marts, Pete Schoening, Samuel Silverstein, Richard Wahlstrom, William Long, John Evans, and Charles Hollister.

Looking south over the Vinson Msssif from the upper SW face of Mt Shinn.
Looking south over the Vinson Massif from the upper southwest face of Mt. Shinn. Photo: Damien Gildea

Arrival

On Dec. 3, 1966, the team arrived in New Zealand then boarded a Navy C-130 transport plane.

Arriving in Antarctica, they spent about 30 hours repacking and organizing at McMurdo Base and then flew to the range. Because of poor visibility, they could not land. Instead, they diverted to Byrd Station, where they waited for 10 hours.

"From the air, the peaks had been spectacular,” Marts said in his expedition report. "Here on the plain, they were overwhelming. Rising abruptly from the flat plateau, this was the most beautiful range I had ever seen."

On December 8, the team landed a ski-equipped LC-130 on flat ice around 20km west of the main peaks. From there, they used a snowmobile to carry their supplies closer to the mountain.

The 1966 team at McMurdo.
The 1966 team at McMurdo. Photo: John Evans

The first ascent

On December 9, they set up Base Camp and fixed rope to a col at 3,353m. There, the reconnaissance party of Sam Silverstein, Dick Wahlstrom, and Eiichi Fukushima established a camp.

They identified a narrow gap in the ridge running southwest from Mount Shinn as a possible entry point to the actual slopes of Vinson and named it Sam’s Col.

The team found a route through the icefall to the Vinson-Shinn saddle at 4,206m and returned to Base Camp. Thus far, the weather had been perfect, but on the evening of December 15, a storm arrived.

"Within three hours, the base was a shambles. Two of our tents were flattened, and gear was strewn about the glacier," Marts recalled.

The storm continued until December 17. Afterward, the team couldn't find all their gear, but the expedition continued.

Schoening and Evans on the summit of Mount Vinson on December 18, 1966.
Schoening and Evans on the summit of Mount Vinson on Dec. 18, 1966. Photo: John Evans

 

On December 17, Pete Schoening, John Evans, Barry Corbet, and Bill Long moved past Camp 2 and set up Camp 3 at 4,510m. Meanwhile, three more team members moved to Camp 1.

On December 18, Barry Corbet, John Evans, Bill Long, and Pete Schoening reached the summit of Mount Vinson. They took photos with the flags of the 12 original signatories of the Antarctic Treaty arranged in a circle. Over the next two days, the rest of the team also summited.

Low Camp, High Camp, and the summit of Vinson.
Low Camp, High Camp, and the summit of Vinson. Photo: Damien Gildea

Other ascents by the 1966 team

On December 21, 22, and 24, team members ascended Mount Shinn. On Jan. 6, 1967, Corbet and Evans ascended Mount Tyree. On January 12, Long, Schoening, Fukushima, and Marts ascended Long Gables. The same day, Evans, Wahlstrom Hollister, and Silverstein ascended Ostenso.

Unauthorized ascent

The second ascent of Mount Vinson came on Dec. 22, 1979. Werner Buggisch and Peter von Gizycki from Germany, and Victor Samsonov from Russia followed the American route. But their expedition was not authorized.

According to Damien Gildea, the three men needed to do field work low on the mountain but were instructed not to go for the summit.

"Yet, after being dropped by helicopter at a base west of Sam’s Col, they could not resist the urge to climb Antarctica’s highest peak," Gildea wrote in his book.

They left Samsonov’s ski pole with a red flag on the top.

In 1983, Dick Bass and Frank Wells were pursuing the then-novel idea of the Seven Summits. On their expedition to Vinson, they were joined by Chris Bonington, Rick Ridgeway, and Steven Marts (who filmed the climb). Bonington reached the summit with Bass, while Wells and the others topped out a week later.

Mountaineers moving up to High Camp on Mount Vinson.
Mountaineers move up to High Camp on Mount Vinson. Photo: Madison Mountaineering

The Vinson flag mystery

John Evans, part of the first ascent team, recounted a funny story in his book about the first ascent of Vinson. The later 1979 team found a flag flying from a bamboo pole on the summit. Evans did not believe that a flag could have survived on the top for so long in Antarctica’s harsh wind. But who else could have put the flag there?

Evans believed that somebody may have snuck to the top. So he started doing some detective work.

Evans got in touch with Gizycki from the 1979 team. Gizycki told Evans that he had brought the flag back to Germany and had it in his basement. He sent Evans some pictures of the flag.

"Armed with these pictures, I proceeded to pester a great number of busy people in the hope of at least ascertaining the country of origin," Evans wrote in his book.

Evans also returned to his summit photos from Dec. 18, 1966. There, to his embarrassment, he found the answer.

In one of the photos, Bill Long was posing on Mount Vinson’s summit with that mysterious flag.

"Bill confirmed forthwith that it was the flag of his home institution, Alaska Methodist University, and that he had planted it on the summit in my presence before we started down," Evans wrote.

How the flag survived 13 years on the summit remains a mystery.

Second-summiter Peter von Gizycki present Bill Long's 1966 summit flag to Pete Schoening's daughter Lisa in Germany, in 2007.
Peter von Gizycki presents Bill Long's 1966 summit flag to Pete Schoening's daughter in Germany in 2007. Photo: John Evans

Some more notes

Since its first ascent, approximately 1,400 people have ascended Mount Vinson, with no deaths registered. It costs around $54,000 per person to climb Vinson.

In 2004, Rodrigo Fica, Damien Gildea, and Camilo Rada measured the height of Vinson using GPS. This team also made first ascents of many sub-peaks on the Vinson summit plateau.

On Jan. 1, 2005, Gildea removed the summit register book on Vinson from the aluminum cylinder in which it had sat for decades.

"The book was full, no longer useable, and I felt it would be too tempting a prize for a thief, given some recent similar problems in Antarctica," Gildea wrote in the American Alpine Journal. The book is in the American Alpine Club museum. A replacement register was organized.

Some non-standard routes up the Vinson Massif.
Some non-standard routes up the Vinson Massif. Photo: Damien Gildea

 

For more on Mount Vinson and the 1966-67 expedition, we recommend: Vinson and Tyree, Antarctica: The 1966-67 American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition by John Evans and Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing in the Frozen South by Damien Gildea.

You can read a climber’s guide to Mount Vinson here.

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Antarctica 2024-25: Clear Skies Are Cause for Celebration https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-clear-skies/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-clear-skies/#respond Fri, 13 Dec 2024 04:24:12 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100852

Sunny weather has most skiers celebrating easy navigation and fully charged devices, but a few must pick up their pace. Norwegian Hege Victoria has recently announced she intends to break the women's speed record on the Hercules Inlet to South Pole route. Kristin Harila has also started from Hercules Inlet and is making good time. Although she hasn't announced a speed record try, is the former cross-country skier turned mountaineer attempting the same thing?

Crossings explained

In previous stories this year, we've referred to crossings generically, but it's worth being more specific to avoid any confusion. The Polar Expeditions Classification Scheme (PECS) clarifies the difference between a full crossing and an inland or partial crossing.

A full crossing is from coastline to coastline. Because ice shelves in Antarctica permanently extend well beyond the landmass itself, a full crossing begins and ends at the open ocean via the South Pole.

An inland crossing, on the other hand, skips the vast ice sheets that protrude from the Antarctic landmass. The majority of modern Antarctic crossings are inland crossings.

For more on this topic, check out this ExplorersWeb story.

Crossings

Ashkay Nanavati's solo, unsupported crossing is the longest effort in Antarctica this season. As you can see from his proposed route below, Nanavati is undertaking a full crossing. 

a map of Antarctica
Photo: Ashkay Nanavati

 

The skier hopes to travel 2,736km in 110 days, hauling a sled that started out weighing 170kg. He's now 33 days into the effort, just shy of the 82nd parallel, and has covered 466km.

That averages out to roughly 14km per day. Nanavati will have to pick up the pace if he wants to hit his target. However, we can expect him to increase his daily distances as his sled lightens. Nanavati has repeatedly said he plans to increase his pace gradually and is trying not to go too hard right out of the gate.

"The current challenge...is a thin layer of new snow that hit a few days ago. It was my understanding that the Filchner Ice Shelf would be a hard surface, and I did get that for a day, but then that night, which was a few nights ago, some new snow hit," he said in his latest audio update.

"It's not that bad at all, nothing compared to the soft snow on Berkner [Island]...but you do feel it a little bit. It's not so much the struggle that bothers me...it's just that it makes it a little harder to get the kilometers. But no complaints," Nanavati continued.

Nanavati's tracker.
Nanavati's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

As of day 35 of Youngmi Kim's 1,700km solo supported (she will resupply at the South Pole) crossing, the South Korean has skied 751km. She's attempting an inland crossing. Looking at the map below, you can see she began skiing at the edge of the landmass itself and will stop at the inner edge of the Ross Ice Shelf.

a map of antarctica
Photo: Google Earth, ExplorersWeb

 

Kim is three-quarters of the way between the 86th and 87th parallel. In a December 11 text, she celebrated a window of sunny weather, noting that it's the first time all her devices have been fully charged at the same time.

Kim's tracker.
Kim's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Kim is skiing Felicity Aston's 2011 route in reverse. Aston was the first woman to make an inland crossing solo. Youngmi Kim hopes to be the second.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Indian skier Satish Gogineni is consistently making over 22km per day with 10 hours of effort, and he's happy with that progress. Gogineni spent some time in a recent update talking about the sastrugi he's navigated in the last week, describing the experience as "like Jurassic Park." We're not entirely sure what that means, but we like it.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Danish skier Rasmus Kragh is behind where he needs to be in terms of daily travel, and he knows it.

"The speed needs to be increased, or I'll run out of food somewhere out here in the middle of the ice. I have food left for another 30 days," he noted in a recent Facebook post. But he remains hopeful, explaining that skiing conditions are good at the moment and his sled now weighs under 100kg.

"This project is probably the most persistent and binding thing I have ever done," he said (note this is a clumsy internet translation from Danish, but the meaning comes through).

 

English skier Catherine Buford is 22 days in and has traveled 284km. She'll reach the halfway point between the 82nd and 83rd parallels soon.

A run of good visibility has helped her to make progress without having to stop for constant compass checks. In her latest voice update, she said, "I'll get my bearing for the day, then find something to fix my eyes on in the distance from that bearing, then just keep going to the next thing in line, and the next thing in line. Then, every two to three hours, I'll switch on my GPS and make sure I'm not going too off course."

Buford's tracker.
Buford's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

In whiteout conditions, this strategy doesn't work, and skiers lose valuable time constantly checking their bearings. In the past, some skiers have used homemade compass trays to keep their direction without having to stop every half-dozen strides in a whiteout to take a new bearing. We're unsure how many skiers are using a compass tray this year.

compass tray
Compass tray. Photo: Jerry Kobalenko

 

Norwegian Karen Kylleso is also 22 days in but has covered 342km compared to Buford's 284. Kylleso had most of her gear custom-made and began her journey with a sled weighing less than 100kg. In her last update, she said she'd managed to ski 25km in one day and was "starting to feel the flow much better now, so that's a very good sign."

The typically cheerful Kylleso seems to be having a blast and almost always mentions how much she's enjoying herself.

Kyllesø's tracker.
Kylleso's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

A few weeks ago, we mentioned that multi-discipline athlete Kristin Harila would soon be undertaking a solo unsupported South Pole push on the Hercules Inlet route. Harila began that journey nearly five days ago and has skied 151km at the time of writing. She is on a fast pace, consistently logging 30kms in 12-hour stints.

"But of course, I wish the conditions on the snow were a little bit better, so I could go a little bit faster," Harila said in a voice update.

Harila's tracker.
Harila's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

Norwegian Hege Victoria has also recently announced that she intends to break the women's speed record from Hercules Inlet to the Pole. The record is currently held by Preet Chandi, who set it last year at 31 days, 13 hours, and 19 minutes. Four days ago, Victoria was at Union Glacier. ExplorersWeb will provide updates once the expedition begins.

The Hercules Inlet to the South Pole route is 1,130km, so most skiers (except for Harila and Victoria) are roughly one-quarter of the way to the Pole.

Messner Start to South Pole

Turkish skier Ali Riza Bilal, also on day 22, has traveled 317km despite persistent ski binding issues, and a host of other gear trouble. The binding problem is making sastrugi navigation difficult.

The Messner Start to South Pole route is 911km long, so Bilal is about 1/3 of the way through.

Bilal's mental state has been troubled for almost the entire expedition. According to his Instagram feed, Bilal "feels lonely and down while walking," but he did manage to listen to some music, which cheered him slightly (his headphones have also been malfunctioning, apparently).

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

 

John Huntington is currently just over the 85th parallel and is making better time. He is 355km into the route on day 22 and has traveled over 130km since last week's update.

"We are definitely getting there," the English skier noted in a recent audio update. He's been happy with his progress and celebrated with a short (10km) day yesterday.

Huntington's tracker.
Huntington's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

Berkner Island to South Pole

Now 28 days into his 1,400km Berkner Island to South Pole journey, Frederick Fennessy is making good time. He's 603km in and averaging about 20km per day. He recently crossed the 83rd parallel.

Fennessy's tracker.
Fennessy's tracker. Photo: Screenshot

 

But his pace is taking a toll.

"Feeling okay over the last few days. At times, absolutely exhausted," the skier admitted in his most recent update. "Legs shattered, probably from the increase in altitude. Skied around some masses the last couple of days, small detour, but uneventful."

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Antarctica 2024-25: Soft Snow Plagues Skiers, But the Sun Shines https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-soft-snow/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-soft-snow/#respond Thu, 05 Dec 2024 18:29:11 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100656

While the weather in Antarctica has been sunny and beautiful for the last few days, a recent storm dumped soft snow on most of the expeditions, shortening daily mileage and causing extra work for the skiers.

Crossings

Twenty-four days in, Akshay Nanavati finally hit a long-desired goal. He surpassed the 20km daily mark while manhauling his exceedingly heavy sled. It was a moment to celebrate, and the skier wanted to hit that 20km daily milestone regularly moving forward. But his plans were immediately stymied.

"I got very, very soft snow today," Nanavati said in a voice recording on the evening of day 25. "Softest snow of the entire journey. So it was a slog, especially [after logging 21.7km] yesterday. A brutal reminder of just how much weight I still have behind me, probably 165km+."

Though he fell short of his goal, he still logged over 17km.

"The expectation of continuing yesterday's trend is what drained more than the physical slog," he continued. His recent updates also include mentions of foot and knee pain but he notes that he's prioritizing recovery with extra rest whenever possible.

Nanavati expects his solo unsupported crossing to take 110 days, hence all that weight. Currently, he's done 347km out of his projected 2,736km journey as he approaches the 81st parallel.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Akshay Nanavati (@fearvana)

 

Youngmi Kim's 1,700km solo unsupported crossing is on its 28th day, and she's skied 565km so far. She just crossed the 85th parallel.

"The sastrugi have been getting worse the last few days, and I've been burning a lot of calories," she said in a recent update. She also noted soft snow and wind. Both combined to give her a difficult week of hauling. But, she said, "it was sunny, and my mind was clear."

Luckily for Kim, she seems to have had a week blessedly free of the equipment failures that plagued the early days of her expedition.

A woman in a tent
Photo: Youngmi Kim

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Soft snow also troubles skiers on the standard 1,130km Hercules Inlet to South Pole route.

On night 13, Indian skier Satish Gogineni began by praising the sunny weather but quickly pivoted to a discussion of the snow. "It was still fresh and completely exhausted me," he said. "Probably the worst day since the beginning of this trip."

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Danish skier Rasmus Kragh is more periodic in his updates than many others. His last post was from December 3, 11 days into his expedition.

In the post, he called himself a "human plow" as he manhauled through the same fresh snow that confronted the rest of the skiers. But like most skiers, he was happy to see the sun after the three-day storm that deposited all that snow.

 

English skier Catherine Buford shared similar feelings, noting the best weather of her expedition so far in a recent audio update.

"It's a shame the terrain didn't match the weather," she wryly noted. "Third straight day of soft, deep snow."

Buford is on day 15, having covered 158km. She'll likely end the day halfway between the 81st and 82nd parallels.

Karen Kyllesø, with her light 100kg sled, was a little more cheerful than others, able to enjoy both the weather and a 20km day on December 4. She's skied 190km so far.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Karen Kyllesø (@friluftsjenta)

Messner Start to South Pole

Turkish skier Ali Riza Bilal has covered nearly 200km of the 911km Messner Start to South Pole route in 14 days. Now, on day 15, he's creeping up on the 84th parallel. Although he's on a decent pace, he's still experiencing technical difficulties with his solar charger.

He's also running into trouble with a ski binding but has managed to find a temporary solution, according to his most recent update. The ski binding issue has caused pain in his ankle, forcing him into a 17km day yesterday.

The binding issue joins a host of other equipment difficulties Bilal has experienced so far.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

 

John Huntington of England crossed the 84th parallel late yesterday and is 221km in. "I won't bore you with more tales of soft snow," he noted at the end of day 13. "Because it was basically exactly the same as yesterday."

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

Berkner Island to South Pole

"About halfway across the ice shelf now, toward the Antarctic landmass," Frederick Fennessy noted in a recent update. "It's definitely been a tough few days, legs are starting to feel tired." Fennessy's route to the pole from Berkner Island is 1,400km long, and he's 430km in.

Fennessy experienced whiteout conditions late last week and has struggled in deep, fresh snow this week.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

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Antarctica 2024-25: Skiers Climb Toward the Polar Plateau https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-skiers-climb-toward-the-polar-plateau/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-25-skiers-climb-toward-the-polar-plateau/#respond Fri, 29 Nov 2024 18:07:01 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100490

Most South Pole expeditions are well underway. Whiteout conditions and flat light are troubling almost everyone, but the skiers are remaining on pace. Meanwhile, a mountaineer has announced plans for a South Pole push.

Crossings

Ashkay Nanavati enjoyed a morale boost on November 28, logging his best daily distance of 18km despite low visibility and some sastrugi. That puts him 247km deep in his 2,736km unsupported solo crossing.

Although he's still pushing through relatively fresh snow, manhauling his monstrous 170kg sled, loaded with 110 days of supplies, has been easier this week than last. He's still climbing, but the elevation change has lessened. As of this writing, he just crossed the 80th parallel.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

On November 26, Youngmi Kim reported problems with both of her compasses in the middle of a whiteout, noting that the difficulties made her feel "stuck." The South Korean seems plagued by equipment issues, including problems with her ski skins earlier in the journey.

a woman in a tent
Youngmi Kim on November 26. Photo: Youngmi Kim

 

She didn't mention compass issues again in later updates. That seems to be her pattern — she doesn't necessarily report when an equipment failure is solved, so it's hard to tell if she's still struggling with her compasses.

However, her GPS tracking indicates she's still on course and averaging about 18km per day. She's skied 409km out of the 1,700km slated for her unsupported solo crossing. She crossed 83˚S on November 26.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Indian skier Satish Gogineni began his unsupported solo from Hercules Inlet to the Pole on Monday, reporting an "absolutely brutal" day. He covered 15km and gained approximately 500m vertical. His update from day three was more positive, noting beautiful weather and (slightly) easier manhauling of his 126kg sled. The Hercules Inlet to South Pole route is about 1,130km.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Satish Gogineni (@_satishgogineni)

 

Rasmus Kragh of Denmark reached the polar plateau yesterday on day six of his solo unsupported Hercules Inlet to South Pole expedition. So far, he's scratched off 95km, averaging nearly 16km per day with a 130kg sled.

 

Catherine Buford is also a week in and halfway between the 80th and 81st parallel. Like the other skiers on this route, she's faced soft snow and sastrugi in the last seven uphill days. She celebrated her 44th birthday with some birthday cake and an in-tent margarita. She's periodically reported flat light and whiteouts, making sastrugi difficult to see.

"Fell over twice," she noted in her day five audio recording. "But nothing dramatic. Got myself back up again and just carried on."

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by MolarExplorer (@themolarexplorer)

 

A little over a week in, Karen Kyllesø is on track to cross the 81st parallel today. Her expedition is progressing smoothly. She's reported all the same conditions as the others, but her sled only weighs 100kg.

"Everything is going well with equipment, and [I'm feeling] strong and in good shape," she recorded on day six.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

 

Speed record try?

Retired mountaineer Kristin Harila announced this week plans to make a solo unsupported South Pole journey. While details are scarce, in an Instagram post on November 22, she noted her journey will be 1,130km long. That indicates she'll do the Hercules Inlet route.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Kristin Harila (@kristin.harila)

 

Although Harila became known in 2023 for completing all 14 of the 8,000m peaks in a record 92 days, her background is in cross-country skiing. It is possible she will try to break the women's speed record from Hercules Inlet to the Pole, set last year by Preet Chandi.

Messner Start to South Pole

Travelers on the 911km Messner Start to South Pole route are also reporting whiteouts. Ali Riza Bilal is skiing hard and attempting to break a self-imposed 20km per day goal but has so far topped out at 19km per day. He passed the 83rd parallel yesterday and has logged 110km as of this writing.

a man takes a selfie with snow in the background
Photo: Ali Riza Bilal

 

Bilal reported blisters on his feet and a stove malfunction earlier in the week. He's currently using his backup stove. He also reported issues with his ski poles (he did not provide details), and one of his two thermoses is somehow non-functional (again, no details). Near-constant whiteouts have made charging his devices difficult, so he's being fairly terse with his updates.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Ali Rıza Bilal (@alirizabilal)

 

John Huntington has skied 109km since beginning a week ago. "It still feels pretty tricky," he recorded on November 28. The skier suffered a brain bleed in 2014, which left him with neurological damage along his left side. That injury is making it difficult to navigate sastrugi.

"My left leg, which is the injured one, doesn't generate nearly enough force to get a knee and the pole moving over one of these little divots. So I have to be pretty careful that I'm positioned correctly to get myself up and over them," he reported in an audio update. The flat light he's encountered so far isn't helping.

But, he notes, he's happy with the distance he's covered in the last few days. He should finish the day's skiing roughly halfway between the 83 and 84th parallels.

Berkner Island to South Pole

Frederick Fennessy is 14 days and 291km into his 1,400km journey to the Pole from Berkner Island. That averages out to roughly 20km per day.

"It's been a hard couple of days. The sun has been out, so I've been getting up a little bit earlier to capitalize on the hard snow in the mornings. It's been good...pretty exhausted when I get back into the tent. The beautiful simplicity [of skiing] comes with a huge amount of intensity, I've found, and it's definitely taking some getting used to," Fennessy reported on his 13th night.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

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AK Teigland Hopes to Reclaim South Pole Speed Record for Norway https://explorersweb.com/ak-teigland-south-pole-speed/ https://explorersweb.com/ak-teigland-south-pole-speed/#respond Fri, 22 Nov 2024 18:39:27 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100336

Norway's history of polar exploration is storied. From Erik the Red's adventures in Greenland to Roald Amundsen beating Robert Falcon Scott to the bottom of the world to Liv Arnesen's historic trek to the South Pole, the Norwegians have it on lock.

Hoping to add his name to this list is Arne-Kristian Teigland. The Øystese, Norway native has plans this season to ski from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole. Teigland hopes to make his mark along this well-traveled path by snatching the year-old speed record from Frenchman Vincent Colliard's capable hands.

To do it, he'll have to travel 1,130km in under 22 days, 6 hours, and 8 minutes. That's 54km a day through winds, whiteouts, soft snow, sastrugi, and everything else Antarctica can throw at him.

sled hauler in open arctic scene
Photo: Arne-Kristian Teigland

 

Colliard set his record in January 2024, besting Norwegian Christian Eide’s impressive 2011 time of 24 days, 1 hour, and 13 minutes. Between 2011 and 2024, a few hopefuls gave it a shot, but no one came within striking distance.

According to Teigland's website, giving the record back to Norway is a matter of national pride. In his early 40s, Teigland has experience moving quickly with a sled in Antarctica. He's turned in impressive finishes in the Expedition Amundsen ski race in Hardangervidda, Norway.

Home-grown skills

One thing Teigland has going for him is his home training ground: Finse, a remote area of Norway known for its ski-friendly terrain and weather. Amundsen, Scott, and Ernest Shackleton all trained in the region.

A survey of Teigland's social media reveals the usual detailed Norwegian planning. He'll begin his attempt with a well-dialed itinerary and custom-made sled and gear, all the better to trim every possible gram from his expedition weight.

That's important because manhauling (pulling a weighted sled with human power as opposed to dogs or motorized vehicles) depends largely on sweet snow conditions. A few years ago, Eric Larsen tried to break Eide's original record but an unusual deep-snow year troubled everyone and made speed records out of the question. Cold also increases friction, which is why Colliard began in late December when warmer temperatures were on his side. The milder the snow, the better the sled glides, and the less it feels like a sack of potatoes.

The Norwegian should begin his expedition sometime in the next few weeks (ExplorersWeb currently has no information on an exact start date). You can follow along via live tracking here.

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Antarctica 2024-25: Updates on Crossings, South Pole Treks, and a Record Marathon https://explorersweb.com/2024-25-antarctic-roundup-south-pole-pushes-have-begun/ https://explorersweb.com/2024-25-antarctic-roundup-south-pole-pushes-have-begun/#respond Thu, 21 Nov 2024 22:49:30 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100305

Youngmi Kim is pushing on with her solo unsupported crossing despite sleepless nights, nausea, and equipment problems. At least, the issues with her ski skin have abated.

Meanwhile, Frederick Fennessy is on day five of his Berkner Island to South Pole trek. Skiers on the Hercules Inlet and Messner Start routes will leave any day now, and an Irish runner broke the Antarctic marathon record by 15 minutes.

Crossings

So far, Ashkay Nanavati has covered 145km of his 2,736km solo unsupported crossing. He had a rough day on November 19, battling through whiteout conditions. The new snow made the day his hardest yet.

Nanavati took a shorter, easier day on the 20th to recover, although the fresh snow remained taxing. He's thinking strategically: With most of Antarctica still in front of him, he's proceeding cautiously and listening to his body.

"A journey like this is not just grinding it out and brute forcing it every day," he noted. "Of course, there is that too, but it is kind of like a game of chess with a lot of strategy involved."

a map of Antarctica
Photo: Screenshot

South Korean Youngmi Kim's solo unsupported crossing is in its 14th day. She's currently completed 230km out of 1,700km. In our last update, we noted that Youngmi Kim seemed to be struggling with the climbing skin (used for traction while hauling a sled) on her left ski. On day three, she was still battling its non-stickiness and trying to warm it up in her armpit, although skin glue isn't really affected by temperature.

However, this was the last time she mentioned the difficulty, so it appears that she's found a solution.

Youngmi Kim has also struggled with whiteouts during the day, and the noise of the wind has kept her up at night. On day eight, she vomited before breakfast but only lost the water she drank that morning, not the previous night's dinner. Finally, she had trouble getting her solar charger to function properly. But it seems she's overcome that, too. Her status updates, when not detailing equipment problems, lean toward the poetic.

The latest reads, "The sun has risen. The shadow has returned. The shadow becomes the compass of the sundial. The time that passes by stepping on my shadow makes me feel at ease."

a map of antarctica
Photo: Screenshot

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Since our last update, two more skiers have joined the roster on the 1,130km Hercules Inlet to South Pole route.

Satish Gogineni of India will go solo and unsupported. He is currently en route to Union Glacier.

Rasmus Kragh of Denmark should also start his Poleward journey shortly. The athlete and personal coach arrived in Antarctica on November 19, according to his GPS tracker.

The two women attempting solo unsupported treks from Hercules Inlet (Catherine Buford and Karen Kyllesø) have arrived in Antarctica. In an Instagram post today, Buford noted that she's flying to Hercules Inlet that afternoon to begin her expedition.

Arne-Kristian Teigland, who will also be on the route, is still in the prepping phase.

Messner Start to South Pole

Ali Riza Bilal is at Union Glacier Camp and should fly out to the Messner Start either today or tomorrow.  John Huntington should also be underway soon. The Messner route to the South Pole is about 911km.

Berkner Island to South Pole

Frederick Fennessy's solo unsupported Berkner-to-South-Pole expedition is in its fifth day. As recorded in his most recent update, the skier has completed 75km of his 1,400km route, traveling mostly uphill and through occasional patches of deep snow.

"Been lucky with the weather. Slight breeze, -15 [degrees Celsius] hitting my left side most days. And visibility's been pretty okay as well. No whiteout. Definitely a flat light, just enough to make out the horizon in the distance. It's been a lot warmer than I anticipated...but I'm sure the cooler temperatures will come in the next few weeks or so," he said.

Fennessy expects the terrain to flatten out soon.

Photo: Screenshot
Photo: Screenshot

 

Constellation Inlet to Mount Vinson

James McAlloon and Robert Smith's skiing/mountaineering expedition from Constellation Inlet to the summit of Mount Vision is still in preparation.

In a message to ExplorersWeb, McAlloon (an Australian) shared that he's excited to be part of only the second team to undertake such a project. He also expressed a little national pride that the other team that did it (in 2007) was also led by an Australian (Duncan Chessell).

McAlloon and Smith will ski 300km to the base of Mount Vinson in 20 days, then spend up to 10 days on the mountain itself.

Irish runner breaks Antarctic marathon record

William Maunsell ran 42km in 2:38:42 last week, notching the fastest-ever marathon time on the continent. He broke the existing record held by his coach, Sean Tobin, by nearly 15 minutes.

Maunsell set the record as part of the Great World Race — seven marathons on seven continents in seven days. Fifty-four competitors from 15 countries participated this year.

"It was a bit tough at the start for about 2K, but there's a big back section that's slightly downhill. The wind was behind you, and you can really make time on that part," the runner told Reuters.

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LEGO Model of Shackleton's 'Endurance' Comes Out in Time for Christmas https://explorersweb.com/lego-endurance-set/ https://explorersweb.com/lego-endurance-set/#respond Mon, 18 Nov 2024 16:06:47 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100238

“Men wanted: for hazardous journey. Small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful. Honor and recognition in case of success.”

Yes, that's the famous (and probably apocryphal) newspaper ad that polar explorer Ernest Shackleton supposedly placed in advance of his fateful Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. But it could just as well describe the next few months of your life, should you decide to put LEGO's upcoming reproduction of Shackleton's famous ship on your Christmas list.

a lego ship
Photo: LEGO

 

The 3011-piece LEGO model of Endurance will set you back 270€ ($285) and is created for LEGO heads 18 and up.

The set includes a LEGO stand, so the ship doesn't list to one side, but our recommendation is to freeze your Endurance in a block of ice for maximum historical authenticity.

You'll have to raid your kid's bucket of LEGO cowboys, astronauts, and knights to crew the ship. Heroic Age of Polar Exploration sailors not included. Nor is, unfortunately, Endurance's ill-fated ship's cat, Mrs. Chippy.

a lego ship
Photo: LEGO

 

Lifeboat bonus

However, LEGO is throwing in a bonus to sweeten your hefty buy. A "Shackleton's Lifeboat" set, which will be sold separately in the future, is included with the LEGO Endurance for a limited time. This bonus set comes with The Boss himself, bescarfed and wearing a determined expression, as well as a strangely cheerful Frank Hurley. A camera, tripod, sextant, shovel, oars, and other accessories are also included with the lifeboat.

a lego lifeboat set
The bonus 'Shackleton's Lifeboat' set, included with purchase of 'The Endurance' set. What's Hurley so happy about? Photo: LEGO

 

The LEGO Endurance will be available for purchase on LEGO's website on November 29.

The set comes out at a moment of increased interest in the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition (although, let's be honest, for some of us, Shackleton and Endurance live rent-free in our heads all the time.) The wreck of Endurance was discovered in astonishingly good condition in March 2022. Earlier this month, a documentary directed by Chai Vasarhelyi, Jimmy Chin, and Natalie Hewit dropped on streaming services.

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Polar Forests? Yes, Discovery of Amber Proves Antarctica Once Had Them https://explorersweb.com/polar-forests-yes-discovery-of-amber-proves-antarctica-once-had-them/ https://explorersweb.com/polar-forests-yes-discovery-of-amber-proves-antarctica-once-had-them/#respond Thu, 14 Nov 2024 19:47:34 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100151

Modern Antarctica is a frozen desert, largely devoid of life except around the coasts. But this wasn't always the case.

In 1833, naturalist James Eights found fossilized wood buried in the continent's South Shetland Islands. The great polar explorers Shackleton, Amundsen, and Scott all found fossil wood, plants, and coal seams.

This is because dense rainforests once dominated Western Antarctica and Australia. Around 600 to 100 million years ago, they were part of the supercontinent of Gondwana. Then continental drift tore Antarctica and Australia apart and pulled Antarctica deep into the southern polar region.

But what happened to the great forests that covered it for so long? Could such a forest, subject to months of darkness and extreme conditions, possibly survive?

That’s what a team of researchers led by marine geologist Johann Klages set out to discover.

a zoomed in image of fossilized wood
Robert Falcon Scott collected this piece of fossilized wood in Antarctica on his last expedition. Photo: The Natural History Museum, London

Pulling back the ice

The researchers drilled into the seafloor off the coast of Western Antarctica and brought up a three-meter-long chunk of mudstone. It had rested underneath nearly 1,000m of frigid seawater and held something never before found in Antarctica: amber.

Amber, the fossilized resin of ancient plants, has turned up on every continent except Antarctica. Now with this new report, Antarctica joins the other six. The presence of resin also answers long-standing questions about the changing landscape of Antarctica as it moved south.

Scientists knew the mudstone had formed in the mid-Cretaceous, 92 to 83 million years ago. The amber proved that a wet, swampy forest existed in the South Polar Region only 90 million years ago.

a photo of a golden amber sample in rock
A tiny sample of amber found in Cretaceous rock. Photo: Johann P. Klages

 

The polar forest

During the mid-Cretaceous, high levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere warmed the planet significantly, allowing lush plant life to survive even at the Poles. However, they still had to contend with the polar night. Researchers suggest that the large conifers that dominated this ancient forest entered periods of dormancy during the winter in order to survive, as subarctic trees do today.

The amber revealed another thing about these forests: Fires were frequent. Resin flows to form a sort of scab over damage to the tree. This damage can come from parasites, but it was more likely from fire. This makes sense, as the Cretaceous was extremely warm and marked by frequent volcanic activity.

The same block of mudstone also contained preserved pollen, spores, and root systems. The amber not only shows that Cretaceous-era Antarctica supported plant life but also gives clues to the ecosystem of a primeval polar forest.

The block of mudstone likely still holds more discoveries. Klages’ team believes that ancient tree bark lies inside the golden amber fragments.

a yellow amber sample with labels showing inclusions
The tiny samples of amber, containing inclusions which may be tree bark. Photo: Johann P. Klages

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Antarctica 2024-5: Solo, Unsupported Crossings Have Begun https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-5-solo-unsupported-crossings-have-begun/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2024-5-solo-unsupported-crossings-have-begun/#respond Thu, 14 Nov 2024 17:24:37 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100140

Most of this year's expeditions are still waiting to embark, but the two solo, unsupported crossings are in progress. And one of the skiers is already having equipment difficulty.

Crossings

Ashkay Nanavati began his unsupported solo crossing from Berkner Island and has traveled 64km as of this writing. Nanavati had a short first day as he traveled to the coastline from his landing site to formally begin his expedition.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

 

Day two was steep and windy, and the skier only covered about five kilometers. But a productive day three (14km and 300m of elevation gain) had Nanavati in better spirits.

"[Kilometers] aren't important right now; we're still very, very early in the game," the skier reminded himself in a voice message. "Today is now done. It's about the next one."

As he begins day four, Nanavati is in good health, other than a sleepless night and some sore muscles.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Akshay Nanavati (@fearvana)

 

Youngmi Kim's crossing, which began at Hercules Inlet, is also proceeding.

The South Korean has covered 101km in seven days so far. Her text logs are in South Korean, but translations reveal she might be struggling with one of the skins on her skis. On day three, she mentioned that it fell off four times. On day five, she wrote, "Removing the left skin of the ski. I couldn't delay, so I just walked."

Skin glue typically adheres well, even in deep cold, unless it's so old that it's dried out. Sloshing through slush or wet ice on the Arctic Ocean prompted past North Pole skiers to screw their skins to their skis before starting their expedition, but wet conditions should not be an issue here. She will need to find a solution quickly.

a tracking map
Photo: Screenshot

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

The two women attempting solo runs on the Hercules Inlet-South Pole route (Catherine Buford and Karen Kyllesø) still await their departure dates.

Arne-Kristian Teigland has joined the ALE roster since last week's update. The Norwegian will also solo Hercules Inlet-South Pole.

Messner Start to South Pole

Ali Riza Bilal and John Huntington's Messner Start to South Pole expeditions should begin in the next week.

The ALE-guided group of clients Julian Evans (UK), Emil Neszmelyi (Hungary), David Pierce Jones (Switzerland), and Montague Pierce Jones (UK) begins on November 18. ALE guide Morten Rostille (Norway) will accompany the group.

Berkner Island to South Pole

Frederick Fennessy's Shackleton-inspired, solo, unsupported Berkner-to-South-Pole expedition should get rolling any day now, according to his tracker.

 

a map of antarctica showing the expedition 90 south route
Photo: Frederick Fennessy, Expedition 90 South

Constellation Inlet to Mount Vinson

James McAlloon and Robert Smith's combination skiing/mountaineering expedition from Constellation Inlet to Mount Vision is still a month away. McAlloon spent yesterday manhauling tires in preparation.

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Way Off Course: Emperor Penguin Swims to Australia https://explorersweb.com/emperor-penguin-swims-to-australia/ https://explorersweb.com/emperor-penguin-swims-to-australia/#respond Sat, 09 Nov 2024 13:23:29 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=100005

Beachgoers in Denmark, Australia, were shocked to see a lone emperor penguin waddling out of the ocean last week. This species, the world's biggest penguin, lives only in Antarctica. This is the farthest north one has ever appeared.

Nicknamed Gus, the penguin swam 3,400km from its icy home to Western Australia. Aaron Fowler was on the beach when it came ashore and described the scene.

“It was massive, way bigger than a seabird, and we are like, what is that thing coming out of the water?” he told ABC News. "And it kind of had a tail sticking out like a duck. It stood up in the waves and just waddled straight up to us...He was probably about a meter high, and he was not shy at all."

Providing entertainment for those around him, Gus then attempted a belly slide, as penguins do on ice, only to end up with a face full of sand. Unperturbed, he stood up and shook the sand off before continuing his exploration of the beach.

Gus is now recovering from the long swim and, hopefully, putting on weight. Photo: DBAC

 

Carol Biddulp, a bird caregiver with the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation, and Attractions, is now looking after the malnourished migrant. She admits she never expected to be caring for a lost emperor penguin.

Skinny after long swim

Gus was underweight to the point that his bones were visible. Given his poor condition and the hubbub that would have occurred if this unique attraction had stayed on the beach, Biddulp brought the bird in.

This was not as easy as it sounds. Even in his malnourished state, Gus weighed 23 kilograms. “Getting him back to the car was quite a challenge," she explained. "We got him into a carrier, a large canvas pet carrier, nice and soft, into the car and home.”

Why the penguin made the epic journey across the Southern Ocean is a mystery. Researchers think he may have followed a current to Australia.

“What they tend to do is follow certain currents where they’re going to find lots of different types of food,” said Belinda Cannell, a research fellow at the University of Western Australia.

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Antarctica 2024-5: An Early Start https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-roundup-2024-season-kickoff/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-roundup-2024-season-kickoff/#respond Thu, 07 Nov 2024 01:15:22 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=99899

This year's crop of Antarctic expeditions will soon begin their uphill hauling toward the South Pole. ExplorersWeb will keep you updated as they progress.

This year's ventures include some variety, including separate solo crossings by American Ashkay Nanavati and South Korean mountaineer Youngmi Kim.

Other solo, unsupported expeditions will tackle the standard Hercules Inlet to South Pole route, while others will use the Messner Start to the Pole.

Crossings

One of the most ambitious expeditions this season is Ashkay Nanavati's solo, unsupported ski crossing. The American ultrarunner will start from either Berkner Island or the Bay of Whales and cross the South Pole to another side of the continent in about 110 days.

 

View this profile on Instagram

 

Akshay Nanavati (@fearvana) • Instagram photos and videos

Currently, the adventurer is waiting for the weather and plans to begin either November 7 or 8. The weather on those days will determine his starting point.

A Marine who saw service in Iraq, Nanavati has struggled with drug addiction, suicide, and alcoholism in the past.

a map of the great soul crossing
Photo: Akshay Nanavati

 

 

South Korean mountaineer Youngmi Kim is also attempting a crossing this season. In 2023, she skied to the South Pole from Hercules Inlet in 50 days. This year's solo expedition will follow the same path at first. But this time, after reaching the South Pole, Kim will continue toward the Leverett Glacier at the top end of the Ross Ice Shelf, eventually covering 1,700km on skis.

Unfortunately, those are the only details we have at the moment. ExplorersWeb reached out to Kim for more information, including her proposed start date, but hasn't been answered as of this writing. However, a recent Instagram post by Ashkay Nanavati indicates she too will begin shortly.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Cornwall, England-based dentist Catherine Buford wins the "most cleverly named expedition" award this year. Buford has dubbed herself "The Molar Explorer," and not without good reason. In addition to her dental practice, Buford also teaches expedition dentistry. Hopefully, she won't have to use her skills during her expedition!

Burford is setting out on a solo, unsupported 1,133km ski from Hercules Inlet, hoping to make the Pole in 50 days. Burford wants to mark the 30th anniversary of Norwegian Liv Arnesen's expedition. In 1994, Arnesen became the first woman to ski solo and unsupported to the South Pole.

 

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MolarExplorer (@themolarexplorer) • Instagram photos and videos

 

The Molar Explorer's flight to Antarctica is scheduled for November 18. She prepped by notching cold-weather sledding experience in Greenland and Norway over the last few years.

"I'm not naive to what lies ahead, but I feel confident in my training and just hope that my mental game is equally prepared," she told ExplorersWeb.

Twenty-one-year-old Karen Kyllesø is also tackling the Hercules Inlet-South Pole route this year. A few years ago, at the age of 14, she became the youngest person (guided) to cross the Greenland Ice Sheet. Now, she hopes to become the youngest person — by five years — to ski solo and unsupported to the South Pole.

 

View this profile on Instagram

 

Karen Kyllesø (@friluftsjenta) • Instagram photos and videos

 

In the years since her Greenland introduction, Kyllesø has done a series of solo training excursions, including three weeks in northern Norway.

“It was on that three-week solo that I learned the most,” she told gear maker Shackleton. “It was my first time being alone for that long. There were a lot of things I had to handle on my own.”

ExplorersWeb reached out to Kyllesø for more information on her proposed start date but hasn't heard back yet. In the meantime, watch this space.

Messner Start to South Pole

Turkish adventurer, fitness coach, and public speaker Ali Riza Bilal is skiing supported and solo from the Messner Start to the bottom of the world. Bilal, a life-long athlete across a number of disciplines, most notably rowing, prepared with mini-expeditions in the Arctic supplemented by survival training.

"I can't help but wonder if something is missing, even though I've checked every piece of equipment many times," Bilal told ExplorersWeb.

With a start date of November 19, Bilal has plenty of time left to fret over his gear.

 

View this profile on Instagram

 

Ali Rıza Bilal (@alirizabilal) • Instagram photos and videos

 

British Army veteran John Huntington plans to tackle the Messner Start route solo and unsupported. In 2014, Huntington survived a brain bleed that left him paralyzed on his left side from the neck down. Post-rehab, he turned to para-cross country skiing and para-climbing to retrain his body and mind.

 

View this profile on Instagram

 

Jonny Huntington | Redefining Possible, Pushing Boundaries (@jonnyhuntington) • Instagram photos and videos

 

According to Huntington, the 40-day, 911km trip will make him the first disabled person to reach that destination in such a fashion.

Rounding out the Messner to South Pole expeditions this year is an ALE-guided group trip containing skiers Julian Evans (UK), Emil Neszmelyi (Hungary), David Pierce Jones (Switzerland), and Montague Pierce Jones (UK). ALE guide Morten Rostille (Norway) will shepherd the group beginning around November 18.

Berkner Island to South Pole

Twenty-nine-year-old Frederick Fennesy's journey draws inspiration from the legendary Ernest Shackleton.

Fennesy's departure point is a stone's throw from where Shackleton's aborted 1914 expedition became trapped in ice. That's very much on purpose — the Brit aims to ski the route the Weddell sea party was initially slated to travel. He too will manhaul solo and unsupported.

a map of antarctica showing the expedition 90 south route
Photo: Frederick Fennessy, Expedition 90 South

 

Fennesy spent the week in Punta Arenas, finalizing his preparations. In an interview with ExplorersWeb, Fennesy revealed tentative plans to fly to Union Glacier camp on November 10 and then on to Berkner not long after.

"I'm feeling good — it's been five years in the making, and it's definitely surreal," he said. You can follow his tracker here.

Constellation Inlet to Mount Vinson

Australian James McAlloon isn't going solo and he isn't going to the South Pole. Instead, he and ALE staff member Robert Smith will ski 300km from inner-coastal Constellation Inlet to the base of Mount Vinson in 20 days. Then they'll spend 5 to 10 days summiting Antarctica's highest peak. Smith joined the expedition after McAlloon's first partner had to drop out.

According to McAlloon's latest Instagram post, the expedition will begin in a little over a month.

 

View this profile on Instagram

 

James Mcalloon (@jameswayne_explorer) • Instagram photos and videos

 

More expeditions to come

According to ALE, "There are other expeditions that have not announced their plans yet, and we will respect their confidentiality until their plans are announced or confirmed." ExplorersWeb will update this list as more information becomes available.

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Shackleton’s Shipwreck Seen in Extraordinary 3D Detail https://explorersweb.com/shackleton-endurance-3d-scan/ https://explorersweb.com/shackleton-endurance-3d-scan/#respond Sat, 26 Oct 2024 19:13:20 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=99647

In 2022, Ernest Shackleton’s ship, the Endurance, was discovered at the bottom of the Weddell Sea in Antarctica. Now 3D scans show the legendary shipwreck in extraordinary detail. 

The Endurance was crushed in the ice and sank during Shackleton’s 1914 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. It has lain 3,000m down at the bottom of the ocean for 107 years. In 2022, the Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust spearheaded a search for the sunken ship. Sixty marine archaeologists, engineers, and scientists collaborated to find the mysterious shipwreck

Photo: Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust

 

The team spent weeks filming the wreck and its debris field, even releasing incredible footage of the largely intact ship. Now, a 3D scan made up of 25,000 high-resolution images shows the Endurance in more detail than anyone thought possible.

A new National Geographic documentary, airing in the U.S. on November 1, explores Shackleton's expedition and the search for the Endurance. The new footage doesn't just capture the sunken hulk of the ship. It shows the dinner plates used by the crew scattered across the floor, a boot lying amid the collapsed rigging, and even the star pattern of the ship's flooring. 

 

Almost pristine condition

The shipwreck is classed as a monument under the International Antarctic Treaty, meaning that nothing can be retrieved from it or disturbed. Though some sections of the ship have decayed, the ice-cold waters of the Antarctic preserved most of it in near-perfect condition.

The story of how Shackleton and his crew survived the 1914 sinking without a single loss of life is one of the great tales of polar exploration. He and his crew wanted to complete the first crossing of Antarctica. Their attempt ended before it even began and quickly turned into a mission to survive.

Photo: Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust
Dishes from the Endurance.
Dishes from the Endurance. Photo: Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust

 

Trapped in the ice, the Endurance lived up to its name and endured the relentless forces of the pack ice for 10 months before it sank. The crew had to rely on their few lifeboats and limited supplies. 

In April 1916, they reached uninhabited Elephant Island. There was no chance of anyone rescuing them there, so Shackleton and five crew members set out in one lifeboat across the stormiest seas on Earth. After 1,200km in the open craft, they reached South Georgia Island. Their ordeal was still not over. A whaling station lay on the other side, but to reach it, they had to make a hair-raising crossing of the mountainous, glaciated island. It took another four months to arrange a mission to rescue the remaining men on Elephant Island.

Miraculously, every single crew member was still alive. All 28 men had survived the expedition. 

Photo: Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust

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Antarctica: The New 'Greenland'? https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-the-new-greenland/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-the-new-greenland/#respond Wed, 09 Oct 2024 18:02:56 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=99188

Antarctica is turning green as plants take over parts of the icy landscape. The change is happening far faster than expected, which could spell trouble for the frozen but still living ecosystems. 

Satellite imagery shows that plant cover on the northern Antarctic Peninsula is 12 times higher than 35 years ago. In 1986, the greenery covered just one square kilometer. By 2021, it covered almost 13 square kilometers. The rapid growth continues to accelerate. 

Since 2016, temperatures on the Peninsula have risen much more quickly than the global average. But it's the loss of sea ice that seems to be responsible for Antarctica's newfound greenery.

Mosses are the dominant species in the greened-up areas. The warmer temperatures and increased moisture have created the perfect environment for them to flourish. In turn, the mosses created more favorable conditions for other plants. As they take over previously barren land, soil begins to form. This nurtures any invasive species that make their way into the region. 

A satellite image of Robert Island in the Antarctic Peninsula, showing the vegetation. Image: WorldView-2/DigitalGlobe

 

Invasion of the spores

“Seeds, spores, and plant fragments can readily find their way to the Antarctic Peninsula on the boots or equipment of tourists and researchers, or via more ‘traditional’ routes associated with migrating birds and the wind," lead author Thomas Roland told CNN. "So the risk here is clear.”

Invasive species can quickly out-compete the few native plants in Antarctica's fragile ecosystem.

Then, as the moss and plant cover replaces the ice cover, the peninsula will start to absorb more solar radiation rather than reflect it back into space, warming it further.

“Our findings confirm that the influence of [human-induced] climate change has no limit,” says Roland. "Even on the Antarctic Peninsula, this most extreme, remote, and isolated ‘wilderness’ region, the landscape is changing, and these effects are visible from space. 

Besides the moss, the researchers found lichen, grasses, and red and green snow algae. Many studies in polar regions focus on the loss of sea ice. But here, the next step will be to analyze how quickly plants can colonize bare rock after the glaciers retreat.

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Heat Wave Hits Antarctica In Dead of Winter https://explorersweb.com/heat-wave-hits-antarctica-in-dead-of-winter/ https://explorersweb.com/heat-wave-hits-antarctica-in-dead-of-winter/#respond Fri, 09 Aug 2024 11:38:50 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=97857

It may not sound like what most of us would call a heat wave, but temperatures of -25˚C to -30˚C are alarmingly balmy for midwinter Antarctica. Temperatures since mid-July on the planet's coldest continent are up to 28°C (50°F) higher than normal.

A changing Antarctica?

The heat wave may continue until mid-August and follows another significant temperature spike in March 2022. The 2022 heat wave caused temperatures to rise over 20°C above average. However, it was briefer and not as widespread.

An unusual combination of atmospheric conditions has extended the unseasonal heat. According to Amy Butler, a physicist at NOAA’s Chemical Sciences Laboratory, the southern polar vortex (an area of cold rotating air over Antarctica) has become disrupted. As a result, cold air is flowing away from the continent, leaving room for warmer air to enter.

"The polar vortex disruption began in the second half of July and could continue through the first half of August, perhaps peaking in intensity in about a week," Butler told CNN.

Ominous signs

Climate change and this relatively warm winter will accelerate ice melt in Antarctica.

The Thwaites Glacier, also called the Doomsday Glacier, continues to melt at an unprecedented rate. Since 2020, the Thwaites has lost over a trillion tonnes of ice and accounts for four percent of global sea level rise. If it melted completely, the sea would rise by almost three meters globally.

The Thwaites is in West Antarctica, and most climactic studies have focused on this region, where rapid melting of the ice sheets may now be unavoidable, according to a 2023 study published in Nature. But the current heat wave is in East Antarctica, demonstrating that climate change affects the entire continent.

For perspective, when three of Robert Scott's men hauled sleds for 200km through midwinter Antarctica in 1911, they considered temperatures in the -50s a mild spell.

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Clean up that Doo, Fidlet! Linguist Untangles Antarctic Slang and Society https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-english-slang-study/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-english-slang-study/#respond Sat, 29 Jun 2024 15:54:05 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=96952

Hey Antarctic newbie, are you a "fingee" or a "fidlet?" And what are those on your feet — "bunny boots" or mukluks?

If you were a new transplant to Antarctic shores, it would be understandable if you didn’t know. In fact, the people slinging the opaque lingo would prefer you didn’t, according to a researcher who investigated the topic.

But — to get the answers, all you’d have to do is refer to your trusty Antarctic Dictionary.

The manual was part of an opportunistic PhD project by the University of Canterbury’s Dr. Steph Kaefer. On a 2019 visit to Antarctica, Kaefer’s ear for linguistics perked up when she heard veterans dropping what sounded like totally novel words.

jacketed woman sitting among jacketed people
Kaefer on "The Ice" -- continental American slang term for Antarctica. Photo: University of Canterbury

 

What was a fingee, anyway? And why, whenever the topic was ground transportation, did it suddenly swing into the realm of “doo?”

A fingee, Kaefer found out, was an American adaptation of the acronym F.N.G. — an unsavory military term for a “[expletive] new guy.” Brits, on the other hand, called new arrivals fidlets. This was an acronym, too, albeit a more straight-laced one. Falkland Islands Dependency was the name of the British station from which it derived.

Hiding your meaning from newcomers

Kaefer’s study revolved around a core tenet of linguistic synthesis: When you don’t want outsiders to know what you’re talking about, invent slang.

“Often, when we create words, we make them transparent," Kaefer told the University. "Particularly in a situation where you need to pass on a lot of information easily, you want people to understand without needing much background information. But when you’re creating a community, whether intentionally or not, and you don’t want people to understand, you might make the words more opaque so that people can't work them out unless they’re part of that group.”

Because Antarctic communities are so isolated, their offbeat lingo grabs hold even tighter. People working on “The Ice” (as Americans would say) or “South” (British) don’t enjoy open lines of contact with outsiders, whether it’s workers in other stations or their families back home.

Due to this, lingual customs make deep treadmarks.

Which, incidentally, is also a quality of Antarctic “doos” — or snow machines, in British continental slang.

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Rogue Waves Are Getting More Frequent. Here's Why https://explorersweb.com/rogue-waves-more-frequent-why/ https://explorersweb.com/rogue-waves-more-frequent-why/#respond Thu, 30 May 2024 12:16:18 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=95826

It's an oft-quoted fact that we know less about the bottom of the ocean than we do about space. And that's true (from a certain viewpoint). But the top of the ocean can be equally mysterious, particularly when it comes screaming toward you at twice the height of the surrounding waves — seemingly out of the blue.

The phenomenon is called a rogue wave. These were long thought to be the stuff of maritime legend until improving technology allowed them to be recorded and studied for the first time. The Drapuner Wave, a 25.6m giant that struck an oil platform in the North Sea in the mid-1990s, was one of the first examples to be caught on camera.

 

Freak of nature

Efforts to understand these oceanic freaks of nature have continued ever since. One recent example is research published last month in the journal Physical Review Letters. Led by Alessandro Toffoli, a professor in ocean engineering at the University of Melbourne, the team ventured into the legendarily fierce Southern Sea with a boatload of 3D imaging equipment and — presumably — toiletry kits full of anti-nausea medication.

As Toffoli explains in a story published in The Conversation, current scientific consensus suggests that rogue waves arise from a combination of two factors. The first is an overlapping of multiple powerful waves — basically a "by your powers combined" type of situation. But the ocean is dynamic, and waves don't overlap that way all that often.

The second factor is wind.

"But wind has seldom been considered in rogue wave analysis," Toffoli wrote.

So, part of the team's mission was to use the extremely bouncy journey to study wind and how it contributes to rogue wave generation.

But there's a third factor that Toffoli and his comrades were even more interested in — one that might not bode well for how often rogue waves arise to terrorize sailors worldwide.

Young cannibals

Using 3D imaging techniques that mimic human vision, the team confirmed one of Toffoli's long-held suspicions.

"When waves are steep and most of them have a similar amplitude, length and direction – another mechanism can trigger the formation of rogue waves," he wrote.

"This mechanism involves an exchange of energy between waves that produces a 'self-amplification,' where one wave grows disproportionately at the expense of its neighbors."

four images demonstrating the data collected while researching rogue waves
3D imaging software allowed a team of scientists to study rogue wave generation in the Southern Sea. Photo: A. Toffoli, et al, Physical Review Letters

 

Basically, the mere existence of a series of large waves can allow one of those waves to cannibalize energy from its sisters and become a rogue wave. The team's paper reports that the expedition observed such occurrences once every six hours while sailing the Southern Sea.

"Our findings challenge previous thinking: that self-amplification doesn’t change the likelihood of rogue waves in the ocean," Toffoli concluded.

It's worth noting that self-amplification only occurred in "young seas," which is to say, relatively new waves still prone to being influenced by wind (once a wave travels faster than the wind, wind ceases to be a factor).

Why does all this matter? Because as climate change ramps up, wind speeds and average wave heights in the Southern Sea are increasing.

In short, while scientists continue to try to understand rogue waves, what we know so far indicates that the forces that cause them are getting more powerful. And that's something that doesn't seem likely to change any time soon.

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New Interactive Map of Antarctica Released https://explorersweb.com/new-interactive-map-of-antarctica/ https://explorersweb.com/new-interactive-map-of-antarctica/#respond Sun, 26 May 2024 16:37:34 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=95908

The British Antarctic Survey (BAS) has released an interactive map of Antarctica. It combines information on coastlines and contours and is available to everyone from tourists to researchers to the merely curious.

Antarctica is constantly changing due to climate change, and many of its frozen features have become out of date. New data keeps up with these changes, and the frequently updated map reflects the latest details about the White Continent.

The interactive map. Photo: Antarctic Digital Database

 

The Mapping and Geographic Information Centre (MAGIC) at BAS maintains the Antarctic Digital Database. The database began in 1993, as a CD-ROM of existing topo maps. The BAS and other research organizations have expanded that information over the decades.

The map shows moraines, outcrops, contours, lakes, streams, and coastlines. Small red dots on the maps highlight an ice formation, land feature, or research base. Clicking on it gives specific information about that particular place, including photos, elevation, and the source (and age) of data.

The solid red dots indicate research bases; the hollow dots, depots and other features. Photo: Antarctic Digital Database

 

This release ties in with the map's latest update, which focuses on Antarctica to 60°S. The BAS updates the maps every six months and is reaching out for feedback from anyone who has used them in case inconsistencies exist.

The new map even shows the giant icebergs that have recently separated from the continent, the ice shelves that still grow in some areas, and the changing coastline of the South Orkney Islands. New islands, exposed by retreating glaciers, are added to the map.

The BAS hopes that the maps will help advance polar research. “Free and open access to reliable data is extremely important in all areas of Antarctic work," says mapping specialist Laura Gerrish.

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What's Forming This Giant Hole in the Antarctic Sea Ice? Scientists Finally Know https://explorersweb.com/giant-antarctic-ice-hole/ https://explorersweb.com/giant-antarctic-ice-hole/#respond Fri, 03 May 2024 14:59:12 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=95222

Every now and then for the last 50 years, an enormous hole opens up in the Antarctic sea ice. And by enormous, we mean truly enormous — the feature in question was twice the size of Wales last time it appeared in 2016 and 2017. But despite its gigantic nature, scientists have long been stumped regarding how, exactly, the thing forms.

The phenomenon, known as the Maud Rise polynya, occurs over the Antarctic winter and was first observed by scientists in 1973. A polynya is just a fancy word for an area of open water surrounded by sea ice. Animals in both the Arctic and Antarctic use them as feeding grounds.

They are fairly common in coastal areas, but far out to sea like the Maud Rise polynya — that's much rarer. That unique location, combined with the Maud Rise polynya's gigantic size, have puzzled scientists for over five decades.

four satellite images of the maud rise polynya arranged in a grid
Satellite imagery of the Maud Rise polynya from when it was first discovered in the early 70s. Photo: NASA

 

Now, a team comprising scientists from the University of Southampton, the University of Gothenburg, and the University of California San Diego, thinks it has cracked the puzzle.

The solution? A combination of conditions specific to the Maud Rise polynya's unique location.

A little help from our friends

In 2016 and 17, a current circulating through the Weddell Sea, where the polynya formed, gained strength. That led to an updraft of warm, salty water.

"This upwelling helps to explain how the sea ice might melt. But as sea ice melts, this leads to a freshening of the surface water, which should in turn put a stop to the mixing," Fabien Roquet, a Professor in Physical Oceanography at the University of Gothenburg, noted in a press release. “So, another process must be happening for the polynya to persist. There must be an additional input of salt from somewhere.”

To find the missing link in the chain, the team turned to a combination of remote sensors, computational models, and — this journalist's all-time favorite data collection method — marine mammals wearing sensor hats.

An elephant seal wearing a sensor hat
A seal wearing a sensor hat. Animals like this joined the team in its search for the answers behind the mysterious Maud Rise polynya. Photo: Dan Costa, University of California, Santa Cruz

 

With help from computers and our blubbery friends with their adorable little chapeaus, the team discovered that a process called "Ekman transport" was moving water into the area at a 90-degree angle to the direction of the wind, providing the additional salt needed.

Missing ingredient found

“Ekman transport was the essential missing ingredient necessary to increase the balance of salt and sustain the mixing of salt and heat towards the surface water,” co-author Professor Alberto Naveira Garabato, University of Southampton, said.

All this is pretty cool until you remember that melting Antarctic ice is not necessarily what the world needs at the moment.

"The imprint of polynyas can remain in the water for multiple years after they’ve formed. They can change how water moves around and how currents carry heat toward the continent," said  Professor Sarah Gille, a co-author of the paper from the University of California San Diego. "The dense waters that form here can spread across the global ocean."

“For the first time since observations began in the 1970s, there’s a negative trend in sea ice in the Southern Ocean, which began around 2016. Before then it had remained somewhat stable," she continued.

Since that's a bit of a downer, we'll leave you with another photo of an elephant seal wearing a sensor hat. You know. For science.

an elephant seal wearing a sensor hat
Photo: C. McMahon, IMOS/U, Sydney

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Mt. Erebus: Fountain of Gold, Heart of Darkness https://explorersweb.com/mount-erebus-spews-solid-gold-research/ https://explorersweb.com/mount-erebus-spews-solid-gold-research/#respond Tue, 30 Apr 2024 12:21:27 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=95144

It turns out that Mount Erebus spews a fortune in gold across Antarctica — $2.1 million worth of it per year, according to reports.

You’d struggle to pan it out of the Antarctic snow, though. Tiny particles of the volcanized gold disperse from Erebus up to 1,000 kilometers across Ross Island. And tiny means tiny: at around 60 microns, the gold flecks are much smaller than the thickness of a human hair.

Still, Erebus disgorges 80 grams of the precious metal every day — scattering $6,000 into the frozen landscape.

It’s one oddity that helps place Erebus among the planet’s most distinct volcanoes. The formation, sharing the name with the Greek god of darkness, bursts from the Ross Sea to a smoldering 3,794m peak. Its active caldera features a bubbling, fluctuating lava lake that has erupted constantly since 1972.

Its riches are likely unextractable. And its labyrinthine gas vents may help researchers understand life on other planets.

Fountain of gold — and 'lava bombs'

Philip Kyle, Professor Emeritus at the New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology, has logged more time on Mount Erebus than anyone on Earth. Kyle’s 50+ expeditions to the world’s southernmost volcano have helped produce totemic research. On one effort to access the inner crater for sampling, an explosive eruption launched lava bombs several hundred meters skyward and likely cost him a “walnut-sized” piece of his brain.

But Kyle persisted to become a de facto Erebus ambassador. He explained to BBC Earth Science how the lake exists as a conduit to the volcano’s sub-tectonic guts.

“Erebus is a living volcano because it breathes. By looking at the lava lake, we’re actually looking inside the volcano. It’s like having a window in your chest so you could see your heart,” Kyle described.

Veins of exposed magma on the surface can reach 1,000˚C. But cooler areas can harbor gold particles, which travel upward from deep subterranean deposits in many volcanic events. Most other volcanoes melt these particles during eruptions — but Erebus is different.

Frigid air could explain why. Only seven other volcanoes on Earth support lava lakes. The coldest one is Mount Michael, an 843m outcrop in the South Sandwich Islands. The South Sandwiches can be cold, but not like Erebus. Nearby McMurdo station — only a few meters above sea level — can reach -50˚C.

It’s thought that when the bracing Antarctic air skims the scorching surface of Erebus’ lava lake, the conditions for solid gold materialize.

Keys to the cosmos

Erebus’ perpetual off-gassing doesn’t just disperse precious metals. It also creates networks of ice caves, which provide access into its catacomb-like vents.

Fumarolic ice towers, which form when volcanic gases freeze solid at the surface, indicate entry points.

“When you just go there for the first time, you don’t realize that virtually under every ice tower is a big ice cave system,” Kyle said in the BBC video, adding that “literally hundreds” of the structures exist on Erebus.

Far-fetched enterprises to mine gold from lava lakes date to early colonial efforts. Friar Blas del Castillo earned mixed credit as an early volcanologist for his attempt to extract silver and gold from Nicaragua’s Masaya Volcano in the 16th century. Castillo famously descended into the caldera inside a basket with dubious prospecting tools: a hammer, a flask of wine, and a wooden cross. (The work was misguided — the caldera yielded no trace of precious metals.)

Even if it were feasible to collect the gold microparticles from the expansive Mount Erebus plain, the haul would be contraband in about two-thirds of the world. The Antarctic Treaty prohibits “any activity relating to mineral resources other than scientific research.”

But Erebus’ value could still be astronomical — literally. Its gas vents harbor microbial communities unknown anywhere else on Earth. Temperatures can vary up to 60˚C just 10 cm away from the vent surfaces. The life forms that flourish in this outlandish ecosystem could teach us what thrives in the final frontier.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Justin (@opening_mindscape)

“Erebus is such an extreme environment — this could provide insight into the possibility of life on a place like Mars,” Kyle said. “There’s lots of new technology, so it’s time for the young studs to come along and do something new and interesting.”

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Adventure Links of the Week https://explorersweb.com/adventure-links-of-the-week-41/ https://explorersweb.com/adventure-links-of-the-week-41/#respond Sun, 28 Apr 2024 15:57:03 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=95081

When we’re not outdoors, we get our adventure fix by exploring social media and the web. Here are some of the best adventure links we’ve discovered this week.

Finland’s Ice Swimming Fanatics: Avanto, as Finland's agonizing practice of ice swimming is known, means cutting a hole in the ice on a frozen lake and hopping in. Some cut tiny plunge pools, others fashion swimming-pool-sized holes for many to use.

Finns swear by this folk tradition, insisting that it lets them survive the dark, brutal winters. Many say it helped them overcome depression, addiction, and bereavement.

As you step into the icy water, time slows, they say. Your body is in shock, and numbness quickly spreads through your limbs. It is debatable if this is a form of water torture, but you feel good afterward. And the longer you stay, the bigger the benefits.

Odd job

Antarctic Fire Captain: Of all the unusual outdoor jobs out there, fire captain in a place covered with snow and ice ranks right up there. But that is what Nicki Schauman does. He is the fire captain in Antarctica. Schauman has worked for two seasons, providing fire support for three U.S. facilities at the South Pole.

So far, there haven't been any fires, but if one did start, it would spread quickly in that dry and windy place. It is hard to replace anything in Antarctica. They only get cargo and supplies a few times a year.

Nearly everyone on Schauman's team is also an EMT, paramedic, or aircraft rescue firefighter. They are always needed for something.

Fire captain Nicki Schauman stands by as an aircraft lands at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station in Antarctica.
Fire captain Nicki Schauman stands by as an aircraft lands at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station in Antarctica. Photo: Michael Rayne/Antarctic Fire Department

 

Here’s Why I Don’t Love Your Trail Dog: Brian Metzler loves hitting the trail and running with his two dogs, but he loathes encountering off-leash dogs on these runs. The loose dogs have charged him often and bitten him four times. Some owners shout the cursory, "Don’t worry, my dog won’t bite," but mostly, they say nothing.

When one aggressive terrier kept running at him and his dog one day, he politely asked its owner to control her dog. He swiftly got told to "f-- off." When he began running again, the terrier followed. Metzler sped up, and so did the terrier. As its owner shouted for the dog to come back, Brian encouraged it to stay, while heading for the muddiest puddles possible.

Durango's train race

A Candy Bar Fueled Durango’s 52-Year-Old Bike Race: The Iron Horse bike race goes a brutal 75km over two 3,000m passes in the San Juan Mountains. The aim is to beat the train to the top.

Nowadays, around 3,000 cyclists tackle this contest every year, but that is not how it began. In 1971, Tim Mayer bet his brother Jim he could not beat the train on his bike. Jim took up the challenge. He outraced the train and won a candy bar. The brothers teamed up with a third partner a year later, and the annual race began.

The Iron Horse bike race begins in the town of Durango.
The Iron Horse bike race begins in the town of Durango. Photo: Adventure Journal

 

Yucatan Jungle Hike Could Help Maya Communities: Mexico’s Camino del Maya is a 110km hiking and biking trail that opened in 2020. It took three years to build and was created to help reverse centuries of colonial exploitation in the Yucatan.

In Mexico, jobs, education, and medical care are limited outside of a couple of centers. Local communities created the trail to preserve their Mayan history and culture by helping them survive without leaving their villages for cities.

All the guides are local, and 80% of the profits go back into the community.

Chinese-American Aviatrix Overcame Racism to Fly During WWII: On Oct. 24, 1932, Hazel Ying Lee became the first Chinese-American woman to earn a pilot’s license in the U.S.

Just months earlier, she took lessons at the Chinese Flying Club of Portland, which trained Chinese-American men to return to China to help defend their country from Japan. The boys treated Lee like their little sister. She idolized them and wanted to be one of them.

When she was in the sky, it did not matter that her heritage was Chinese or that she was a woman. No one could see her, and she could be completely herself. Eventually, she became one of just two Chinese-Americans who flew as pilots in WWII.

Lee stands next to the Student Prince in 1932.
Lee stands next to her plane in 1932. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

 

Confronting a different world

A Cranky Old Man Returns to Climbing: When Dave Pagel ended up on crutches, everyone assumed he’d been in a climbing accident. He very quietly told them he acquired the injury gardening. Slamming his foot repeatedly into a shovel had ruptured the sinew in his ankle.

He went from a sore ankle to crutches, to a limp, to a walking stick to a wheelchair. Climbing disappeared from his life. When a surgeon finally figured out what had happened and fixed his ankle, he couldn’t imagine heading back into the mountains. He was used to his new sedentary life.

Then his dad dropped dead, and that scared him. He began working out and eventually picked up a climbing magazine. The world of climbing had evolved more than he ever expected. The big question was, did he want to jump back into the new game?

Congrats, You’re Dating a Surfer!: Dating a surfer isn’t for everyone, but this writer thinks those who do are some of the luckiest out there. He’s even made a list of why these partners are so fortunate to date individuals like himself.

First, a surfer's reliability. You can always count on them to be there, unless, of course, the waves happen to be particularly good that day. Then there’s their cleanliness. Your car and house will absolutely not be covered in surf wax, zinc, and endless trails of sand.

Last is their spontaneity. They are always up for random weekend activities, as long as they involve the ocean and their surfboard. But you go have fun at the farmers' market. They’ll see you when you get home, at exactly the time they said they’ll be back.

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Belly Flop! Watch Penguin Chicks Plunge, Plummet, and Plop off Huge Ice Cliffs https://explorersweb.com/penguin-chicks-belly-flop-off-ice-cliffs/ https://explorersweb.com/penguin-chicks-belly-flop-off-ice-cliffs/#respond Sat, 13 Apr 2024 13:05:34 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=94735

Nobody knew why some six-month-old emperor penguin chicks routinely marched toward 15-meter cliffs in Antarctica.

Most of their peers waddled up to low curbs of ice to contemplate their first swims, but these flightless young souls went where eagles dare. They stared into the void, then committed their pudgy, downy frames to it.

The capable Bertie Gregory captures and narrates the action. Some plump jumpers actually dive with varying degrees of grace. Others just flail.

Photo: Screenshot

 

Whether you call it a swimming lesson or a lemming imitation, it’s decidedly the cutest of either I’ve ever seen.

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Is It Curtains For the World's Largest Glacier? What About Curtains Around It, Instead? https://explorersweb.com/curtains-around-thwaites-glacier/ https://explorersweb.com/curtains-around-thwaites-glacier/#respond Mon, 11 Mar 2024 19:09:30 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=93954

For some years now, scientists have warned climate change has doomed Antarctica's Thwaites Glacier, the world's largest. Also known as the Doomsday Glacier, it is melting at an unprecedented rate. Now one scientist has what sounds like a crazy, desperate plan to save it. He wants to draw a giant curtain around it.

The Thwaites has lost over a trillion tonnes of ice since 2020 and accounts for four percent of global sea level rise. If it melted completely, the sea level would rise by almost three meters around the world.

At the moment it forms a barrier between many other glaciers and warming sea water. If it disappeared, these other, semi-protected glaciers would promptly melt as well.

A 100km long, 100m high curtain

Glaciologist and geo-engineer John Moore wants to erect a 100km long, 100m high curtain around the Thwaites. Contrary to what you might think, it's not to shield the ice from sunlight. The bottom of the curtain would anchor to the seafloor, and the top would float in front of it, creating a makeshift wall in the water. This would keep the deep currents of warm water from reaching the glacier, stopping the melting or at least slowing it down.

In 2018, Moore came up with a similar idea, but instead of a curtain, he proposed a giant wall. Now he thinks the curtain is more feasible. It would be easier to install and remove if it caused unexpected problems.

"Any intervention should be something that you can revert if you have second thoughts," Moore told Business Insider.

A diagram showing how the seabed curtain could work.
How the seabed curtain could work. Photo: Arctic Centre/University of Lapland

 

Moore and a team from the University of Cambridge are creating one-meter prototypes of the curtain and testing it on a small scale in the lab. They will next test it in a river environment.

In its infancy

They are unsure if the project will work and have stressed that their research is only in its infancy. Testing the curtain on an ever-larger scale will show them if it could reverse or slow down the melting of this giant glacier.

The Seabed Curtain Project hopes to launch a ten-meter version in a Norwegian fiord in 2025. The project will cost somewhere between $50 to $100 billion to set up, plus another $1 billion a year for maintenance.

Some of Moore's colleagues have been highly critical of the project. Speaking to Sky News, geoscientist Martin Siegert said the plan was nonsense and that such “ideas are dangerous, illusionary, and distracting.”

Physical geographer Bethan Davies echoed this. She said that building such a curtain in a polar environment would be almost impossible. Others have said even if it works, it will merely slow the inevitable.

Moore admits that this is not a permanent solution, but it is better than just giving up. "We need to do something,” he said.

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Weekend Warm-Up: Restored Footage Shows Shackleton’s Ship in its Icy Death Throes https://explorersweb.com/shackletons-ship-endurance-footage/ https://explorersweb.com/shackletons-ship-endurance-footage/#respond Sat, 24 Feb 2024 14:12:52 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=93591

Is it just me, or is it physically possible to see the shiver of doom in several men’s pick-axe swings as they try to free the Endurance from her icy clutches?

It must be just me, because all 28 men on Ernest Shackleton’s famous 1914 Antarctic voyage famously survived. Their ship, though — the 44m, three-masted barquentine Endurancedid not.

The endurance crumpling under pressure from sea ice, masts snapping
Photo: Screenshot

 

Now for the first time, you can watch the Weddell Sea ice cripple her as she succumbs to her watery grave in restored British Film Institute (BFI) footage.

And if that sounds like an overly personified way to describe what happened to a boat, get ready for more in this viewing experience. The silent film-style intertitles describe the action vividly, and humanly.

The ship was helpless

“Huge blocks of ice, weighing many tons, were pushed up all around her and the beleaguered ship stood at bay helpless and with no weapon to meet her advancing foe.”

Endurance masts barely visible over huge ice blocks
Photo: Screenshot

 

The footage itself is fascinating. Watching the Endurance crumple under the pressure of the pack ice transmits not only the enormous forces at work, but astonishment at the event.

Let alone what it must have been like to be there. Trapped on the vast surface of the Weddell Sea, the men acted in desperation and despair, executing animals and pets on board out of either pity or resource scarcity. One plan involved marching across the ice toward land, but they cut bait with it after stumping just 12km in seven days.

Their months-long subsistence at the horrific camp and eventual lifeboat getaway over churning seas is one of the world’s great survival stories. Frank Wild, Shackleton’s second-in-command, wrote that by the time of the escape voyage to Clarence and Elephant Islands, “at least half the party were insane.”

Don’t miss this gritty, primary-source Weekend “Warm-Up” — and count your lucky stars to be wherever you are while you watch it.

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Iran Claims Property Rights in Antarctica, Boasts Military Plans https://explorersweb.com/iran-claims-antarctica/ https://explorersweb.com/iran-claims-antarctica/#respond Sat, 17 Feb 2024 00:04:23 +0000 https://explorersweb.com/?p=93435

In a televised broadcast last fall, Iran’s naval commander claimed Antarctica for the Islamic Republic.

“We have property rights there, and they belong to the [Iranian] public,” said Iranian Navy Commander Rear Admiral Shahram Irani. “Our plan is to raise the flag there,” he said, adding that the regime is preparing to begin scientific and military projects on the continent.

The act would violate the Antarctic Treaty of 1959, which 12 original nations signed to protect freedom of scientific research on the continent, and protect its “peaceful use.” Demilitarization and maintenance of the status quo were other considerations.

Iran is not a member nation, and the Treaty does not address claims of sovereignty.

Iran’s ongoing military aggression on the world stage backdrops the claim. Late last month, Iran-backed militias attacked and killed three U.S. soldiers in Jordan. The strike drew prompt retaliation from American forces, which reported attacks on 85 targets throughout Iraq and Syria, per PBS.

Funds not for Antarctica

In a contradictory gesture following Iran’s comments, the U.S. agreed to unfreeze $6 billion of Iranian funds in Qatari banks in exchange for the release of several prisoners. A Fox News correspondent asked a U.S. State Department spokesperson if Iran could use the released funds to build facilities in Antarctica.

“No. Iran’s funds held in Qatar may not be used for any activities in Antarctica,” the spokesperson said. “Those funds can only be used to purchase humanitarian goods, meaning food, medicine, medical devices, and agricultural products.”

Iranian president Ebrahim Raisi, however, reportedly said his nation would use the money “wherever we need it.”

Iran has also promised to increase its naval presence worldwide. Meanwhile, simultaneously, the U.S. has stacked naval assets near the country’s Persian Gulf coast.

Potkin Azarmehr, an expatriated Iranian activist attached to the Geneva Summit for Human Rights and Democracy, expressed concern over the developments but doubted the regime’s ability to follow through.

“Everything in Iran is reminiscent of the USSR in its last days before collapse,” Azarmehr told Firstpost. “Ambitious but pointless plans by a state with completely wrong priorities. Unable to provide basic services to its people, bankrupt institutions but full of grandiose talk.”

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Four New Emperor Penguin Colonies Found in Antarctica https://explorersweb.com/scientists-discover-four-new-emperor-penguin-colonies-in-antarctica/ https://explorersweb.com/scientists-discover-four-new-emperor-penguin-colonies-in-antarctica/#respond Sun, 28 Jan 2024 07:01:51 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=92741

Scientists from the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) have discovered four new colonies of emperor penguins in Antarctica. They spotted all four in satellite images.

The researchers were initially scanning satellite images for colonies that were changing positions. Penguin colonies move because of changing sea ice conditions. They need stable ice for breeding and caring for their chicks.

The penguins lay their eggs in May and June, incubating them for 65 days. The parents stay with their chicks for months. The young birds do not fledge until December or January.

Newly reported emperor penguin colonies, shown in red boxes. Light blue boxes denote other known extant colony sites.
Red boxes show the new emperor penguin colonies. Light blue boxes denote known colony sites. Image: Fretwell, 2024

 

While searching for the moving penguins, BAS scientists stumbled across four previously unknown breeding colonies. There are now 66 known colonies in Antarctica and an estimated 550,000 emperor penguins.

The return of a vanished colony

They were also thrilled to re-discover the Halley Bay colony. The colony vanished in 2016 when sea ice conditions changed rapidly. Thousands of young penguins perished when the ice broke apart beneath their feet. But it seems that the survivors have repositioned themselves in the MacDonald Ice Rumples, 30km east of their old site.

High-resolution satellite image of emperor penguin colony at the Vanhoeffen site. MAXAR.
High-resolution satellite image of the emperor penguin colony at the Vanhoeffen site. MAXAR. Photo: BAS

 

Emperor penguins are incredibly difficult to monitor. Their remote and inhospitable location makes it almost impossible to track them, which is why researchers have turned to satellite images. The bird's poo turns the snow brown, making it stand out in satellite images.

Researchers first spotted the new colonies in images from the European Commission’s Copernicus Sentinel-2 satellite. They confirmed their suspicions using high-resolution images from the Maxar WorldView-3 satellite. As the sea ice continues to change, the penguins will only get harder to monitor.

"It’s clear these birds are going to have to be adaptable, to move around to new sites as those ice conditions continue to change, and we're seeing evidence of this," Peter Fretwell of the BAS told BBC News.

Still vulnerable

Though the new colonies are good news, scientists remain concerned. The last few breeding seasons have been dismal.

In 2023, sea ice covered 2.2 million square kilometers less area than the average between 1981-2022. Studies in 2022 estimated that sea ice loss in the Bellingshausen Sea may have killed thousands of emperor penguin chicks. Researchers think changing sea ice has impacted around 30% of breeding colonies since 2018, and that number is increasing.

Sentinel-2 images of the four new sites taken at consistent scale. Arrows show locations of emperor penguin colonies.
Sentinel-2 images of the four new sites at a consistent scale. Arrows show the locations of emperor penguin colonies. Photo: Fretwell, 2024

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On the New Antarctic Speed Record: An Interview with Vincent Colliard https://explorersweb.com/on-the-new-antarctic-speed-record-an-interview-with-vincent-colliard/ https://explorersweb.com/on-the-new-antarctic-speed-record-an-interview-with-vincent-colliard/#respond Wed, 24 Jan 2024 22:48:09 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=92614

On Jan. 11, Vincent Colliard broke the Hercules Inlet to South Pole speed record in Antarctica. This was not low-hanging fruit. Christian Eide's 2011 time of 24 days, 1 hour, and 13 minutes, was exceptional.

A handful of hopefuls had tried to best Eide in the last decade-plus, but none came particularly close. Colliard not only trimmed the time, he knocked almost two days off it, finishing in 22 days, 6 hours, and 8 minutes.

Now back in Oslo, Norway, Colliard spoke to us about the record, his time on the ice, and his future plans.

This interview has been edited for brevity and clarity.

First of all, congratulations on the speed record. How are you feeling?

I'm feeling good, still a little bit confused, trying to process everything that has happened. I was still in the tent just over 10 days ago and now I'm here in comfort. A big change but I'm very, very stoked.

I feel fine. Mentally I am very good because I'm pleased that it somehow worked out. But physically I still have the impression that I've been in a race, that my body needs to recover. When I go up and down the stairs it feels strange on the hips, the knees, the feet.

But I do hope to be back skiing as soon as possible. I want to keep an active lifestyle and don't want to miss too many great winter days here [in Oslo]. It might sound weird to go back to skiing, but it is my favorite sport, it's a lifestyle.

Vincent Colliard
Photo: Vincent Colliard

 

Staying slightly cold

How did you structure your days on the ice? Did you sleep most of the "day" and travel at night when it was colder and, in theory, the snow was firmer?

No, I stayed on Chilean time. I stayed on the same time as Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE).

I was skiing on average 12 hours per day, fluctuating between 11 and 13 hours. From 9 am, I was on skis until 9 or 10 pm. I took as short breaks as possible and tried to stay slightly cold the whole time. I was making sure that my body temperature was always ready to go, ready to keep moving.

Did you keep track of your cadence/strides per minute while skiing? Or were you just tracking the hours you were putting in?

I was just tracking the kilometers. My goal was to make sure that I could go above 50km in less than 12 hours. I knew that Christian's daily average was 47km for the length of the expedition.

I thought I had to go over 50km. I didn't manage to do this at the beginning. I had some powder and some whiteouts. It was only on day nine that I managed to break 50km. I knew I had to respect my sleeping time, so I had to make sure I could do 50km in 12 hours. That was my base for skiing.

Christain Eide averaged 47km but he finished on a pretty massive closing kick, completing 90km or so on his final day. Did you have that in mind?

Yes, absolutely. I wrote Christian's kilometers on the inside of my tent and wrote all my days on the other side so I could compare. I knew that he had such an amazing day at the end. On my side, I was unsure that I could do such a long day so my game plan was to try and build consistency every day. I tried to do just a little bit more than him, to accumulate, to get a buffer.

Navigating in Antarctica.
Photo: Vincent Colliard

 

Did you find knowing exactly what Christian had done, day in and day out, to be an advantage or a hindrance? Did you feel pressure?

In the beginning, it was for sure pressure. I was like, man, the standard is high. That's what I told Christian two days ago when we met in Oslo. I told him it was probably easier for me, it was a big challenge, lots of pain, but in the end probably easier. Because Christian didn't have anyone to beat, no one in front, just himself.

But it's a question mark in my head. Isn't it easier to break a record than to establish it? I think it is easier to break it.

Seven spills in a day

What skins did you use and how did you manage your sled? I recall you were putting them in a catamaran setup for some sections for stability. 

In the first half of the journey, I had various days with whiteouts and sastrugi. Even though the sastrugi were not very big, they were big enough to capsize my sled. One day I capsized seven times.

I thought, this is not good, I'm losing time and energy. So I put the sleds together as a catamaran. It's much more friction but I can at least relax and go straight without worrying about them tipping over. I had to do it for three days but it worked.

For skins, most of the way I used 30mm skins. I only had to use wider skins on day one, just for the first climb. I never used long skins, I didn't even bring them with me.

Vincent Colliard
Photo: Vincent Colliard

 

In terms of gear, you were traveling incredibly light. Did this mean you had to worry about damaging or breaking equipment?

Good question. I changed my mindset, whether it was with my tent, my sledbag, or with every zipper on my clothing, I felt that everything was so fragile. I had to modify the way I used my gear, being extra careful.

As soon as the weather was a little bit tougher, I told myself: "If you feel the need to speed up, just try to slow down. Do the opposite of what you usually do."

Every time I felt I was going too quick or too strong on the equipment, I'd stop the process, have a drink, and think. Think about what would happen if I break something. I'd be in trouble or at least lose a lot of time.

I wouldn't do it again with super-light equipment. I'd take a little more weight and relax a bit because it is difficult to be very careful when you're very tired.

Coming close to pulling the plug

With the weather and snow conditions, do you know how your run compares to average years or Christian's run? Were you lucky, unlucky?

First of all, it's my first full-length expedition in Antarctica. I've guided there on the peninsula and on two last-degree trips, but I don't have tons of experience. But if you compare it with the Arctic Ocean, I think the terrain in Antarctica is quite easy. I'm not one to be dramatic, I thought the terrain was OK.

I think the weather this year might have been a little more challenging than Christian's year, but we'd have to fact-check with him. I had more than three degrees with powder.

When I got past the Thiels mountains, when I was close to 86°, I told Lars Ebbesen [polar guide who attempted the speed record in 2018] that if the weather continues like this, with powder and whiteouts, I might pull the plug. Two times I was on the edge of pulling the plug. I was still putting in the kilometers but was close to mentally breaking down. I just thought I couldn't keep doing 50km in those conditions.

But things improved and at Thiels [Corner], I got rid of five days of food and later I got rid of two more days. I didn't want to just reach the Pole, I had to take the risk to be lighter.

Snow conditions weren't always ideal.
Snow conditions weren't always ideal. Photo: Vincent Colliard

 

If the worst moment was at Thiels Corner, what was the best?

I think the best was at 83°. It was probably better than seeing the Pole. I had my first day of good weather, a hard surface, and no wind. It was the first day I managed to ski 53km and it was the only day of the expedition that felt like I was skiing rather than walking.

You improved Christian’s record by almost two days. I’d be interested to know what time you think could be possible for the route. Were you near your max or do you think you could conceivably go faster than your 50km+ per day average?

No, I don't think it is the limit. I now have the answer that my body did the job, and I think it is possible to do better. With a harder surface and less powder, it should be possible to improve the time.

Other challengers

Do you see anyone else trying it considering you've made a hard record even harder?

Yeah, I know there is a guy here in Norway who might try. People will try. Especially because there are few firsts left in the polar regions. There are still some [firsts left] but they are so expensive. So I think people will go back to Antarctica and try to break the record.

Antarctica
Photo: Vincent Colliard

 

If someone can break it, presumably, it will be an Olympic cross-country skier or similar.

This is exactly what I thought. I hope I stay humble because I know that if a professional cross-country skier takes an interest in pitching a tent and starting a stove, then they're going to do a lot of damage!

Finally, do you have any plans for what is next? A couple of years ago you were planning to go to the North Pole before the Barneo season was cancelled.

Yes, North Pole is still in my head, but not for now. I spent too much money and energy on this project. I might go back to the Arctic Ocean if everything there is stable.

For now, the beautiful thing is Caroline [Cote, Colliard's partner] is pregnant so we'll be spending family time next season. But I think we'll get back to Antarctica, not next season but maybe the season after, even if it's to do a season at ALE. The people at Union Glacier have been so supportive that we'd love to do a season down there.

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Antarctica: Last Few Skiers Rush to Reach the Pole https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-last-few-expeditions-approach-the-pole/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-last-few-expeditions-approach-the-pole/#respond Wed, 17 Jan 2024 20:01:23 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=92333

The Antarctic expedition season has mostly wrapped up after Vincent Colliard's remarkable sprint to the Pole. Most expeditions have now finished or are close.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

James Baxter has found the last few weeks tough. "At the moment I am putting in 10-11 hour days every day without respite, and have to do so to complete my 22-24km each day," he wrote recently. He wakes up at 5 am and skis from roughly 7 am to 6 pm each day.

On Jan. 12, Baxter had seven days of food remaining and 162km to go, putting him on track for a Jan. 19 finish. He's cutting it a little fine but thought the distance doable. Fortunately, he found better snow entering 88°, and after a couple of decent days, he crossed into the last degree on Jan. 15.

Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe made the Pole after 52 days, 10 hours, and 30 mins. The pair finished on Jan. 12 with a 36km push, showing they still had something left in the tank after a long expedition.

Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe at the South Pole.
Photo: The Fire Angels

 

Vincent Colliard

On Jan. 11, Vincent Colliard reached the South Pole, breaking the speed record from Hercules Inlet.

Colliard covered 1,130km in 22 days, 6 hours, and 8 minutes. He bested Norwegian Christian Eide’s 2011 time of 24 days, 1 hour, and 13 minutes by a little under two days.

His 50km+ daily average is quite remarkable, and it'll be interesting to see if anyone attempts to best his time next season.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Patrick Bernier hasn't announced anything on social media, but it looks like the Canadian has made the Pole today.

Bernier made good time from the longer Berkner Island start point, putting in very consistent 25km+ days right from the start of his trip.

Guided trips

Fifty-six days into their expedition, Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela are still enjoying themselves.

"Before, you could see height differences on the horizon and shapes in the landscape, but now it's like standing on top of one pancake. There is a smooth snowfield, 360° around. It seems endless no matter which way you look," they wrote today.

On the polar plateau, they should reach the Pole tomorrow.

Three skiers in Antarctica.
Photo: The Pole Expeditions

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Climbers Target Mt. Sidley, Antarctica's Highest Volcano https://explorersweb.com/mt-sydley-antarctica/ https://explorersweb.com/mt-sydley-antarctica/#respond Thu, 11 Jan 2024 12:33:31 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=92005

While teams line up on Vinson to tick off the Antarctica stage of the Seven Summits, a lonelier, more remote summit challenges adventurous alpinists: Mount Sidley. At 4,285m, it's the highest peak of the Executive Committee Range in Marie Byrd Land. It is also the highest volcano in Antarctica, which makes it one of the Volcanic Seven Summits. A two-man team from Poland is on its way up the unusual peak.

Getting there and dealing with the weather is more challenging than the actual climb. It is a cold but easy hike to the rim. As Damien Gildea points out in his book, Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing in the Frozen South, all the mountains at the Executive Committee Range "rise gently above the plateau."

Map of Antarctica.
Marie Byrd Land and the Executive Committee range lie in extreme Western Antarctica on this British Antarctic Survey map. Photo: Ryszard Pawlowski/Facebook

 

"Sidley is now guided fairly regularly by ALE [Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions]," Gildea said. "Its value is that of the highest volcano on the continent...It’s a very easy climb, just very remote, so it requires a long extra flight."

For those interested in geology and the wide Antarctic landscapes, it provides an exceptional experience. Sidley is a shield volcano (like Mauna Loa in Hawaii) -- a low, wide bump on the ground like a massive shield. Climbing involves not only reaching the rim of the five-kilometer-wide caldera but finding the highest point, Gildea told ExplorersWeb.

Two climbers on a flat, wide snow ridge with the endless Antarctic plateau in background under the blue sky.
Final steps to the summit of Mount Sidley.

Poles on the go

ALE's website doesn't list a specific date for a guided expedition to Mt. Sidley this season, but Polish mountain guide Ryszard Pawlowski and Tom Bryl are currently on their way there. They flew earlier this week from Punta Arenas to Union Glacier. Here, another flight will bring them to the base of the mountain. The climbers will set one high camp on the way to the summit.

Sidley was ignored until very recently because of its remoteness. Those aiming for the highest peak on the continent go to Vinson, while those interested in Antarctic volcanoes would opt for Erebus. Erebus is Antarctica's second-highest volcano, but it is much more accessible from nearby U.S. and New Zealand bases.

The first recorded ascent of Mt. Sidley was by Bill Atkinson of New Zealand on Jan. 11, 1990. Atkinson was not a member of a climbing expedition, but in a scientific field party launched by the U.S. Antarctic Program, according to Wikipedia.

Studio shot of the climbers in polar gear.
Pawlowski, right, and Bryl. Photo: Ryszard Pawlowsk/Facebook

The first Vinson

Mt Sidley was discovered from the air by Richard E. Byrd on an airplane flight in 1934. Other pilots of the era mistook it for the highest peak in Antarctica and even called it Vinson.  The first expedition to reach the place overland, which included Bill Chapman and George Doumani in 1957-58, discovered the error.

They went up pretty high up the peak with tracked vehicles and then on foot. Although they didn't summit Sidley, they reached the top of some lesser mountains of the range. They proved that the supposed Vinson was actually Mt. Sidley and that the early maps had misplaced the entire Executive Committee Range by 60km.

The real Vinson -- the true highest peak of Antarctica, in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains -- was discovered and named after a U.S. congressman in 1958.

Mt. Sydley, not very prominent, on the endless plateau of Marie Byrd Land.
Aerial view of Mt. Sidley's caldera. Photo: Wikipedia

The Volcanic Seven Summits

The Volcanic Seven Summits challenge consists of climbing the highest volcano on each of the seven continents. It shares Elbrus and Kilimanjaro with the standard Seven Summits but then includes Orizaba (5,610m) in Mexico, for North America; Ojos del Salado (6,893 m) on the border between Chile and Argentina, for South America.; Giluwe (4,509m) in Papua New Guinea for Australasia/Oceania; Damavand (5,761m) in Iran, for Asia and Mt. Sidley (4,285m) for Antarctica.

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Antarctica: Colliard Nears Pole, Omar Di Felice Aborts https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-colliard-nears-pole-omar-di-felice-aborts/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-colliard-nears-pole-omar-di-felice-aborts/#respond Wed, 10 Jan 2024 08:30:46 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=91990

This week in Antarctica, Omar Di Felice aborts his cycle ride at Thiels Corner and Vincent Colliard only needs one big kick to break the Hercules Inlet to South Pole speed record.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

James Baxter offers some interesting insight into route finding for those skiing from Hercules Inlet. The suggested route from ALE may not always be the optimal one. Baxter wrote:

The next waypoint was about 40 km to the south...However, to the east of this was a crevassed area...[so] we should stay west from it. I also had information from the most experienced Norwegian expedition organizer that it was far better to go much further west. That way, the climbs were not so steep, the sastrugi were smaller, and you were well away from any potential crevasses. So I decided to veer west...and then come back east again and join the ALE route some 30-40km to the south.

Climbing to the polar plateau, Baxter says the wind has been a "constant menace." The weather forecast for the next few days is not ideal, so he'll continue to battle the wind and poor visibility.

Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe are now several days ahead of Baxter. The pair are well into degree 89 and should finish in two or three days. They've sped up on the polar plateau and are putting in close to 30km per day.

After not seeing anyone else since 85°, they are bumping into last-degree skiers.

"It's a really strange feeling, but it's nice to see other people enjoying Antarctica," they said in their most recent audio update.

Pierre Hedan needed to hurry to the Pole because of a fuel leak, with dodgy ski bindings adding further stress. He coped admirably, rationing his fuel and nursing the binding through the sastrugi.

On Jan. 8, his home team announced that he had arrived at the South Pole. He finished in 49 days and managed to avoid a resupply, despite his tribulations.

Vincent Colliard

Colliard has just broken 1,000km in 21 days and remains on track to break Christian Eide’s time of 24 days, 1 hour, and 13 minutes, set in 2011.

Colliard's daily average is the same as Eide's, at 47km per day, but that doesn't tell the whole story. Eide finished his run with roughly 190km in three days, raising his average considerably. Colliard is ahead of Eide at the same point in their journeys, with three days to go and less than 150km to cover. (Colliard's home team reports that he is now within 100km of the Pole.) He should beat the record if he can come close to matching the Norwegian's closing kick.

Vincent Colliard.
Vincent Colliard. Photo: Vincent Colliard

Berkner Island to the South Pole

If Patrick Bernier had started at Hercules Inlet, he'd have finished. With 1,179km under his belt, the Canadian has put in an impressive showing from the Berkner Island start point. He is well into degree 88 and should finish before the season ends on Jan. 18. You can listen to his audio updates (in French) here.

Fat biking to the Pole

As expected, Omar Di Felice ran out of time to reach the Pole, let alone to push on to the Leverett Glacier as he had planned.

Di Felice covered 680km, just over half the distance required to the South Pole, never picking up much momentum and likely spending much more time pushing the bike than riding it.

After discussions with ALE, he returned to Thiels Corner for pick up and flew back to Union Glacier.

Guided trips

With under 190km to go, Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela's supported expedition took a rest day yesterday. They have been putting in 22-25km per day and should comfortably finish before the season ends.

The Pole Expeditions demonstrate an innovative way to use a tent.
An innovative way to use a tent. Photo: The Pole Expeditions

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Antarctica: Colliard On Track For Speed Record https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-colliard-on-track-for-speed-record/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-colliard-on-track-for-speed-record/#respond Thu, 04 Jan 2024 16:46:14 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=91663

Vincent Colliard needs only nine (very) big days to break Christian Eide's impressive Hercules Inlet to South Pole speed record. Meanwhile, Pierre Hedan is soldiering on with limited fuel and a finicky ski binding.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

James Baxter found the soft snow around 86° tough going. There was a slow drizzle of snow on Dec. 29-30, and "these small snow particles, like caster sugar, grip the runners of the pulk and don’t let it pass easily," he wrote. "I felt like a large plow horse pulling a three-bladed plow through an everlasting field of sorbet."

Over these two days, Baxter dropped his daily distance totals by design. He focused on four five-kilometer sessions in the deep snow rather than his usual six sessions.

Fortunately, the snow firmed up in the New Year and he is back to 20km+ days. You can read his excellent, in-depth daily summaries on his website.

Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe are a little over a degree ahead of Baxter and will cross into 88˚S tomorrow. They also found soft snow around 86˚ (and battled through a few whiteout days), but increased their daily ski time to stay on schedule. They are hoping to arrive at the Pole in eight days.

Pierre Hedan needed to hurry to the Pole because of a fuel leak, but his dodgy ski binding adds an extra complication. The binding is extremely difficult to open and close, and he's nursing it through some big days.

Binding repairs.
Binding repairs have not solved Hedan's problem. Photo: Pierre Hedan

 

Hedan has passed 1,000km and is on the plateau. "It is flat, not a single sastrugi, but it is cold, snowing, and windy. I've now got my biggest gloves on...and the sweat from my socks freezes while walking," he wrote in his most recent update.

He is managing his fuel well, and his rationing means that he should reach the Pole without a resupply. He has just 90km to go as of this morning.

Speed record hopefuls

Of our three hopefuls, only Vincent Colliard is still on the ice. Colin O'Brady aborted after a scary crevasse fall, leaving Colliard as the lone skier attempting to best Christian Eide's overall speed record from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole.

Preet Chandi has already finished her secret run to the Pole, handily breaking Caroline Cote's record from last season. Chandi finished the 1,130km route in 31 days, 13 hours, and 19 minutes. She bested Cote’s time by 1 day, 14 hours, and 34 minutes. She maintained an average of 36km per day.

Colliard is flying along, wrapping up 2023 with an astonishing four straight 50km+ days. The New Year has seen more of the same. He covered 102km over the previous two days, despite lots of powder, and is now on his seventh 50km+ day in a row. He's on track to break Eide's record, roughly 37km ahead of where Eide was after 15 days. But he has now crossed 86˚, where the other skiers reported soft snow.

Colliard has set up his sleds in a catamaran style to deal with the combination of whiteouts and sastrugi over the last few days. This setup helps stop the sled from overturning.

"I'm really pushing my body to the edge. I think it is a fine line between failure and success. I have nine days to reach the South Pole," Colliard said in an audio update yesterday.

Colliard is right. Eide put in an almighty kick to finish his 2011 run, including around 90km on the last day. It'll be touch and go till the end.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Canadian Patrick Bernier has covered 1,034km and is consistently managing 25km+ days. He is on target to finish before Jan. 16, as planned. You can listen to his audio updates (in French) here.

Fat-biking to the Pole

Soft snow makes for tough work. Photo: Omar Di Felice

 

Omar Di Felice's daily average has hovered around 14km per day for most of his expedition. Now, just under 618km into his 1,130km journey, conditions are perhaps harder than ever. Fresh, soft snow has slowed him to a crawl. In yesterday's update, he spent an hour and a half dragging his gear 800m before electing to stop for the day.

"[This is] the most difficult place to cross that I have ever faced. Physical and mental effort do not help, so stopping for a few more hours, eating and trying to relax, is the only thing I can do right now," he wrote.

Barring a miracle, ALE will cut his expedition short before he reaches the Pole. ALE imposes a Jan. 18 deadline for expeditions to finish.

Guided trips

Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela have 300km to go. They have a couple more days of altitude to gain before the polar plateau.

The climb to the polar plateau.
The climb to the polar plateau. Photo: The Pole Expeditions

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Antarctica 2023-4: Cox Aborts, O'Brady Restarts After Crevasse Drama https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-cox-aborts-obrady-restarts-after-crevasse-drama/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-cox-aborts-obrady-restarts-after-crevasse-drama/#respond Thu, 28 Dec 2023 13:10:03 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=91352

It has been a dramatic week in Antarctica. Colin O'Brady survived a crevasse fall, the lone crossing attempt ended with an evacuation, and Vincent Colliard is striving to keep pace with Christian Eide's blistering Hercules Inlet to South Pole pace.

Crossings

Like last season, there are no full Antarctic crossing attempts.

Sam Cox’s 2,000km crossing attempt from Berkner Island to the base of the Reedy Glacier via the South Pole is over. There had been no hint of a problem in our last update, but on Dec. 22 Cox's home team announced that ALE would evacuate him to Union Glacier.

ALE's doctors suspect Cox has kidney stones. "[Cox had] started to experience some discomfort. As the pain worsened and other symptoms began to show, Sam sought medical advice. Despite Sam wanting to push on, the medical team intervened because of the risk to his physical well-being and the potential implications to his long-term health if left untreated," Cox's home team wrote on social media.

"It’s too early to say about another attempt," Cox said. "However, the first 600km felt good, and there was plenty more in the tank."

Sam Cox
Sam Cox's crossing is over. Photo: Sam Cox

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

James Baxter is enjoying himself. "I cannot believe this weather," he wrote just before Christmas, as he arrived at the Thiels Corner fuel cache. "It is yet again a beautiful cold, crisp clear day with little wind. I have nothing to compare it to so don’t know if I am being fortunate or whether this is the norm."

Baxter noted the "multitude of tracks" from both skiers and vehicles heading from Thiels Corner toward the Pole. Though not equivalent to the South Pole Overland Traverse (SPOT) road linking the Pole to McMurdo Station, it's interesting to consider whether this route could constitute a level of support too. At the very least, no navigation is necessary.

After the run of great weather, Dec. 25 was a whiteout, but Baxter still made 21km before setting up his tent. He is now 485km from the Pole.

A little over a day ahead of Baxter, Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe are doing well. They've been averaging over 25km per day, though the Christmas whiteout resulted in a truncated 20km day. The Brits have completed 813km. At their current pace, they should reach the Pole in a little over two weeks.

After a fuel leak, Pierre Hedan needed to hurry to the Pole to avoid losing his unsupported status. His pace hasn't increased noticeably, but there's no word of a resupply yet. He has 258km remaining.

Pierre Hedan celebrated Christmas with some letters from family and friends.
Hedan celebrated Christmas with some letters from family and friends. Photo: Pierre Hedan

Speed record hopefuls

Well, it was a dramatic start for Colin O'Brady! Just 6km into his Hercules Inlet to the South Pole speed record attempt, O'Brady fell into a crevasse.

In an emotional Instagram post, O’Brady recounted how he broke through a snow bridge into a meter-wide hole. The traces on his sled kept him from falling in too deeply -- luckily, the sled didn't follow him in -- and he managed to clamber out. A team from ALE arrived to retrieve his lost ski from 25 to 30m down in the crevasse and drive him back to his start point.

He has now set off again, resetting his timer to reach the Pole. He is not sharing his tracker but reports that he covered 48km on his second day, matching Christian Eide’s pace in the early going.

Vincent Colliard, who is sharing his tracker, has started behind Eide's pace. He is covering over 40km per day, but regularly falling short of the 47km needed to match Eide. "I'm trying to keep up with the incredible pace of my friend...some days it takes me 11 or 11 and a half hours," he said.

black and white photo of Colliard hauling his sled
Photo: Vincent Colliard

 

"It has been very, very tough, incredibly hard battle these past two and half days because I was in a very thick whiteout," he said in a recent audio update. "One day I fell four times and my sled capsized seven times."

There's still no word about the woman aiming to best Caroline Cote's female speed record from last season, but unconfirmed reports identify the skier as Preet Chandi.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Canadian Patrick Bernier has covered 870km. You can listen to his audio updates (in French) here.

Fat-biking to the Pole

Omar Di Felice has cycled just under 550km and has roughly 600km further to the Pole.

Omar Di Felice's bike in Antarctica.
Photo: Omar Di Felice

 

The Christmas period may have spurred some food cravings: "After 37 days, eating the same rations, my head decided to undermine my food balance by increasing the sense of hunger and unleashing unrealizable desires that I struggled to control," he said in a recent update.

Guided trips

Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela are 458km from the Pole and going strong. Their Christmas looked particularly festive. They even managed to bring a tree!

A Christmas tree in Antarctica.
Photo: The Pole Expeditions

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Antarctica 2023-4: Injuries Mount; Colliard Sets Off https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-injuries-mount-colliard-sets-off/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-injuries-mount-colliard-sets-off/#respond Thu, 21 Dec 2023 17:54:44 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=90915

The weather in Antarctica is good, but injuries and gear issues are mounting. Despite an excellent start, Pierre Hedan is going to have to pick up the pace, while Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe battle injuries and illness.

Back at Hercules Inlet, Vincent Colliard and Colin O'Brady start their race to the Pole.

Crossings

Like last season, there are no full Antarctic crossing attempts.

Sam Cox's 2,000km crossing from Berkner Island to the base of the Reedy Glacier via the South Pole is this season's longest expedition. He is making good progress despite his heavier pulk. Over the last week, he has tacked on another 145km, bringing his total to 650km.

Recently, a steep incline forced him to shuttle his heavy load uphill in stages, in a grueling 14-hour day.

Cox reports excellent conditions. However, it has been a hot couple of days, sunny with little to no wind, which has made some of the uphills a slog.

Sam Cox in Antarctica.
Sam Cox works his way out of the mountains. Photo: Sam Cox

 

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

James Baxter reports that "for the moment, the knee is behaving as it should," as he soldiers on toward the Pole. Baxter's daily distances are up, with a couple of days approaching 30km, though he's being careful not to push his knee too far.

Baxter has 30 days of food left and is just over halfway after 30 days on the ice. He remains on track to finish unsupported.

Roughly a day ahead of Baxter, Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe are also on schedule. Like Baxter, their daily totals are increasing as their pulks lighten. On Dec. 19, they completed their longest day yet (28km) and passed the halfway mark.

Gilbert is suffering from polar thigh. She's managing the injury by keeping it as warm as possible and applying steroid cream. "Everything's OK," she said in a recent audio update. Meanwhile, Openshaw-Rowe had a chest infection and then diarrhea caused by the antibiotics. Fortunately, she seems to be over it.

Antarctic Fire Angels.
Photo: Antarctic Fire Angels

 

In a measure of Antarctica's increasing commercialization, Gilbert and Openshaw-Rowe also spotted an electric car this week. Scots Chris and Julie Ramsey were driving the vehicle on a "Pole to Pole" journey, from the 19th-century location of the Magnetic North Pole (much further south than today) to the South Pole.

Pierre Hedan was well ahead of the pack in our last update, but he might still need to pick up the pace. Hedan is running out of fuel. On Dec. 15, he discovered that 2.5L of fuel had leaked into his pulk from an open jerrycan. Heavily rationed fuel, coupled with a dodgy ski binding, means Hedan might struggle to finish his journey unsupported.

For now, he's going for it. He'll need to cover roughly 30km per day over the final 500km to avoid a resupply.

Speed record hopefuls

There are at least three Hercules Inlet to the South Pole speed record hopefuls. An anonymous woman set off earlier in the season, Vincent Colliard set off yesterday, and Colin O'Brady is due to start soon. O'Brady made a predictably dramatic last-minute announcement last week. So far, it doesn't appear that he will be sharing his tracker publicly.

Colliard's tracker is here.

The two men are aiming to best Norwegian Christian Eide's time of 24 days, 1 hour, and 13 minutes, set in 2011.

The women's record is held by Colliard's partner, Caroline Cote. Cote finished her solo, unsupported run from Hercules Inlet in 33 days, 2 hours, and 55 minutes last season.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Canadian Patrick Bernier is 712km in and looking strong. You can listen to his audio updates (in French) here.

Fat-biking to the Pole

Omar Di Felice is very keen to emphasize that he isn't concerned by his slow pace.

"[I'm] allergic to numbers and averages. Every day, the situation can change and you quickly go from being stuck in the tent to cycling more than 20-25km, which is a very good distance. For this reason, you don’t need any calculators until the end of the adventure...The only thing that matters is to keep pushing to the end," he wrote in a recent update.

Omar Di Felice in Antarctica.
Photo: Omar Di Felice

 

While positive thinking might help Di Felice push on, it's not useful for covering his journey, so I'm afraid I'll have to ignore his advice to bin my calculator. Di Felice is 376km into his journey after 30 days, averaging 12.53km per day. With 766km to the Pole, he'll need a very impressive kick to finish.

Yet his social media suggests unwavering belief. A recent update even suggests he might have time to continue past the Pole! "If there will be time and chance, we will go towards the Leverett Glacier. Every extra kilometer beyond the Pole will be the distance record cycled in Antarctica," he wrote.

Preet Chandi exploited that idea last year: Rather than stop at the South Pole, go a little further even if it leads nowhere, because then you can claim a record distance.

Guided trips

Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela have less than 600km to go to the Pole. After a bit of cloudy, snowy weather they have been enjoying the sun and relative "warmth" of -10°C.

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Antarctica 2023-4: The Sastrugi Fields https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-update-23-24-sastrugi/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-update-23-24-sastrugi/#respond Thu, 14 Dec 2023 15:21:03 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=90448

This week, most of the Hercules Inlet starters are bunched together around some tricky patches of sastrugi. However, Pierre Hedan has forged ahead, relaying condition reports back to the pack.

Crossings

Like last season, there are no full Antarctic crossings announced.

In our last update, Sam Cox had been slogging through soft snow. In the week since, he reports better conditions with "firm packed snow and just the odd soft patch." His left boot/left ankle problem seems to have resolved itself too. He has covered 505km and averaging roughly 22km per day.

Cox is looking forward to raising his daily distance as he progresses: "I think it’ll be at least another 10 days until I start to see distance progression from my pulk getting lighter. It is still heavier than the starting weights of pretty much every other expedition."

Camping in Antarctica.
Cox's pulk is heavier than other expeditions because of the extra distance required for his PECS crossing. Photo: Sam Cox

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

James Baxter's knee is certainly not healed, but he seems to be coping with the slightly dodgy joint. "I could feel my knee, but it was very tolerable, and it gave me confidence to know what the problem was now [an inflamed IT band right at the bottom of the femur]," he wrote on Dec. 8.

On Dec. 9, Baxter began to encounter sastrugi. The first couple of days proved fairly easy, as he weaved between what he described as "[sastrugi] patches, each about the size of a tennis court with another tennis court of soft grainy snow adjacent to them."

But by Dec. 11, flat light made progress much more difficult: "I thought something is going to break here. Either my knee or a ski or a binding."  Baxter elected to take most of that day off and continued in crystal clear weather the next morning.

Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe didn't enjoy the sastrugi field during whiteout conditions. "It was hell...we had some spectacular crashes," they said in a recent audio update.

But generally, they are pleased with their progress. After exiting the worst of the sastrugi, their daily distance is ticking up. Yesterday, they managed their longest day so far: 26km. They aim to average around 25km per day and make it to Thiels Corner by Christmas.

A pulk in deep snow.
Photo: Pierre Hedan

 

Pierre Hedan is almost 100km ahead of Baxter, and around 50km ahead of Georgina Gilbert, and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe. He has kicked on since our last update, with his distance total now 498km and only 637km remaining to the Pole.

Hedan fought through the sastrugi but suffered a broken ski binding in the process. "I do have a spare...but it's not that simple to change and I risk breaking my ski. For now, I'm going to try skiing like this," he wrote. He is also suffering from polar thigh.

Speed record hopeful Vincent Colliard should arrive at Union Glacier this weekend.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Canadian Patrick Bernier has completed 534km, averaging roughly 25km per day. This is good progress and puts him on pace to finish his journey unsupported.

Fat-biking to the Pole

Omar Di Felice is still plugging away, and by day 25, he had covered 245km. His pace fluctuates considerably, depending on snow (and wind) conditions. However, it remains unlikely that he'll be able to finish his proposed route to the Pole before the season ends. Di Felice may be preparing his considerable social media audience for this in a recent update:

"It’s not the end until the end. I imagine many of you there, worried in the days when the average drops drastically or exalted in those in which it rises. In reality, there is no space in my mind for these kinds of thoughts. You just have to be able to get out of the tent, every day, trying to do the maximum possible. If I had wanted 'a safe result,' I would have put a pair of skis on my feet, certainly more comfortable and faster. But I have already talked about this: I’m here to try to understand how far I can go with my bicycle."

Fat bike in Antarctica
Photo: Omar Di Felice

 

Guided trips

Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela are taking full advantage of the perks that come with a "supported" expedition. Yesterday, at ALE's Thiels Corner base, they picked up some beer to have with dinner!

But it hasn't all been easy. Suomela described the cloudy days with poor visibility rather nicely: "When you can't see the details of the snow, the whole day goes on like a white sack on your head."

The trio are covering good daily distances and have 758km to the Pole.

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Antarctica 2023-4: The Weather Worsens https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-weather-worsening/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-weather-worsening/#respond Wed, 06 Dec 2023 13:21:54 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=90051

Although Antarctica's weather is never exactly gentle, it's been comparatively kind to this year's expeditions so far. This bodes well for a high completion rate, especially for Vincent Colliard's attempt to break the Hercules Inlet-South Pole speed record -- the most interesting expedition of the season.

Yet flat light over the past few days shows how quickly conditions can change. And even with the (mostly) good weather, this week sees our first aborted expedition.

Crossings

Like last season, there are no full Antarctic crossings announced.

Sam Cox has just stepped off the edge of Berkner Island and onto the ice shelf. He's 338km into his 2,000km journey.

Sam Cox
After some overcast days, the sun came out and Sam Cox could charge his devices. Photo: Sam Cox

 

Cox reports that his left boot is still uncomfortable but he has made "some bodge repairs," which involved butchering a bit of his sleeping pad for some extra padding. This hasn't proven particularly effective so far, but pain medication has. Cox popped a couple of pills, "which made the afternoon fly by."

Cox should be able to blitz through the next degree, which is mostly flat, before slowing for the grind up to the polar plateau.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Jacob Myers has aborted his solo expedition just 13 days in. Myers had been moving quite slowly. Day 12 was the first day that he completed the minimum daily distance he needed to make the Pole with his supplies.

After nearly two weeks without meeting that 22.5km daily threshold, he would have to really pick up the pace. Instead, the next day he announced the end of his expedition.

"After evaluating the progress that I have been making and just the way my strength has been declining over the past week or so, I've come to the conclusion that...I'm simply moving too slow. I'm 25% of the way through my food rations today and I'm only 16% of the way through the journey."

Myers was offered a resupply but decided not to take it because of his declining strength, both physical and mental. He is now stationary and waiting to hear where an evacuation plane will be able to land.

James Baxter is still battling knee issues, which he believes could be an "inflamed IT Band right at the bottom of the femur." While taking some time off to rest it on day 11 (Nov. 30), Baxter spotted another solo skier pass by.

"I knew who it was, and they were trying to do it as quickly as possible. They also wanted to keep it under wraps a bit, so I won’t say more. They gave me a wide berth and continued past my tent at half a kilometer’s distance," Baxter wrote.

After a bit of time off, Baxter has eased back into it, trying not to push his knee too hard. He's understandably worried.

"It would be crushingly disappointing if I had to end my trip after so much time and expense. If my knee did not repair sufficiently, I could ski on at about 8-10km a day to the halfway point at Thiel Fuel Cache, where ALE planes regularly land...On the other hand, my knee might recover completely," he wrote recently.

Pierre Hedan continues his slog uphill to the polar plateau. Though visibility has improved in the last few days, snow conditions may have deteriorated.

"Pierre [Hedan] finds himself pulling his pulka like a tire in sand," his home team wrote in the latest update. He is covering around 18km per day, roughly on target to complete his expedition.

An Antarctic track from a pulk.
Hedan's trail through Antarctica. Photo: Pierre Hedan.

 

British firefighters Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe report tough conditions, with soft snow, strong headwinds, sastrugi, and whiteouts. But they seem to be making good progress, covering 21km yesterday and the day before.

British duo Alan Chambers and David Thomas are also en route to the Pole but don't appear to be posting either. They bumped into James Baxter on Dec. 3. Said Baxter: "[They are] not here to set records but are just two old buddies out to have a trip to themselves."

We'll respect their trip as a personal one and won't be providing updates unless something changes.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Canadian Patrick Bernier has completed 335km, according to his tracker. His audio updates are in French, and he doesn't appear to be asking for directions to the tourist information office or recounting his summer holidays, so my GCSE-level French has proven completely useless.

Fat-biking to the Pole

Omar Di Felice is struggling. In our last update, on day eight of his expedition, he had covered 99km. Now on day 17, he has totaled only 132km.

"Curved. By the wind, by Antarctica, by an unforgiving place, by the kilometers that don’t increase [although] every day I put more energy than the previous one, from the conditions that instead of improving continue to become more...harsh," Di Felice posted yesterday.

He will need to drastically increase his pace to have any chance of reaching the Pole.

Cycling to the South Pole.
Omar Di Felice is well behind schedule. Photo: Omar Di Felice

Guided trips

Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela have also found the weather poor recently.

"In recent days, skiing has been in pretty tough conditions, but today was the most challenging weather so far," they wrote yesterday. "More than 10 m/s headwind and -15 °C."

Before slowing slightly, the team was making good progress, consistently putting in 20km+ days.

No news is hopefully good news for the other guided trips from the Messner Start.

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Penguins Nap 10,000 Times a Day https://explorersweb.com/penguins-nap-10000-times-daily/ https://explorersweb.com/penguins-nap-10000-times-daily/#respond Mon, 04 Dec 2023 08:00:46 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=89909

Chinstrap penguins are champions of the power nap. They sleep for around 11 hours a day, but this is made up of thousands of micro-sleeps that last just four seconds at a time. This sleeping pattern has not been seen in any other living creature. Scientists are amazed by the way the black-and-white birds catch some shut-eye.

We know that all animals need to sleep, but how they have evolved to do this varies dramatically. As humans, we are told we need around eight hours of sleep a night. Bush elephants and giraffes survive on two hours of sleep a day. Giant frigate birds sleep for just an hour a day while migrating, and then 13 hours a day once in their nests.

Dolphins, ducks, and seals can sleep with one half of their brain at a time to always maintain some level of awareness. Animals of the same species rely on far less sleep in the wild than they do in captivity.

A colony of chinstrap penguins.
A colony of chinstrap penguins. Photo: Shutterstock

 

Captive penguins sleep longer

Chinstrap penguins have evolved to be masters of the micro-nap. In 2014, behavioral ecologist Won Young Leen noticed something unusual in Antarctica. The penguins would nod off for a few moments, then wake back up continuously. He never saw them take an extended sleep.

This piqued his interest, as this is not the case with captive penguins. Captive penguins sleep for short periods rather than one long sleep, but those periods were much longer than a few seconds.

In 2019, the researchers went back to Antarctica to try and find out what was going on. They fitted 14 penguins from a breeding colony with electrodes to measure brain activity, movement, and body position. They also filmed the birds for all 11 days of the study.

A chinstrap penguin looks over its shoulder.
A chinstrap penguin looks over its shoulder. Photo: Shutterstock

 

Longest sleep lasted 34 seconds

Every day, the birds racked up an average of 10,000 micro-sleeps that lasted around four seconds each. The longest sleep they recorded was only 34 seconds long.

“We’ve never seen such a sustained fragmentation [of sleep] in any other species,” says study co-author Paul-Antoine Libourel.

Even more surprisingly, during these four seconds, the penguins went into a stage three deep sleep. They seemed to be able to reap the benefits usually associated with prolonged sleep in seconds.

The bouts of sleep varied slightly, depending on whether the penguin was caring for an egg or hunting at sea. Penguins share incubation and hunting duties. The parent sitting on the egg slept shorter and more often. At sea, they slept far less but could micro-sleep while floating in the water.

Chinstrap penguins with their eggs
Chinstrap penguins with their eggs. Photo: Shutterstock

 

Adaptation to protect eggs?

Researchers think that this sleeping pattern could be a mechanism to protect their eggs as they are developing. It allows almost constant vigilance in a crowd of 27,000 penguins and against any predators. Some have argued that they are in such a noisy and crowded environment that snatching a longer sleep is impossible.

The researchers now plan to study chinstrap penguins outside of breeding season, to observe whether these thousands of micro-naps are their usual way of sleeping or whether they just do it while their eggs are developing. They also want to study how other polar animals, such as Weddell seals, sleep, to see if there are similarities.

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Antarctica 2023-4: We're Underway https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-were-underway/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-4-were-underway/#respond Wed, 29 Nov 2023 18:30:48 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=89680

Unseasonably warm weather delayed some flights into Union Glacier camp, but many Antarctic expeditions have now begun. One skier has already suffered a knee injury, and another was lucky to only make an "almost" critical mistake.

Crossings

Like last season, there are no full Antarctic crossings announced.

Sam Cox, attempting a 2,000km PECS crossing, kicked off his expedition early last week. Yesterday, he posted after crossing the first degree of latitude en route to the Pole. He's been covering solid daily distances despite some initial soft snow. He should speed up as his sled weight decreases.

Sam Cox
Sam Cox. Photo: Sam Cox

 

Cox is now "experiencing some more favorable conditions, with lower temperatures and wind, making the surface much firmer," according to his home team. He has just cracked 200km.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

Twenty-five-year-old American Jacob Myers' solo expedition was due to begin on Nov. 18, but the warm temperatures meant Union Glacier's blue-ice runway was out of action for much longer than expected. He finally flew in a week ago and stepped out onto the ice on Nov. 22.

Three days in, Myers nearly lost his GPS, dropping it and skiing on for 40 minutes before noticing. He unclipped from his pulk and returned to pick it up, relieved to escape this "nearly critical mistake" with only a scare.

After seven days, Myers has covered 111km.

James Baxter, who has extensive cold-weather experience in the Scandinavian Arctic, seemed to have found the early going fairly easy. Then his left knee started bothering him on day seven. He took a half day to rest it but the pain returned after a few kilometers the next morning.

Fortunately, a change of gear seems to have alleviated the problem for now.

"I decided to change to the short skins as the conditions now warranted it, anyway. They glided forward much more easily and after a kilometer, I did not feel the knee anymore. Hallelujah," Baxter wrote in his most recent update.

Afteer nine days, Frenchman Pierre Hedan has clocked 143km according to his (very fancy!) tracker. Slowly but surely, he's been grinding up toward the polar plateau:

"I'm straining my joints," he said. "There are three of us trying the same adventure this year and one of us already has a knee in the sack. It's up to me not to do the same."

Pierre Hedan
Everyone is working on their ice beards. Photo: Pierre Hedan

 

British firefighters Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe are eight days into their 1,130km expedition. They started near but not quite from Hercules Inlet. You can see the exact position on their tracker here. They have completed 146km so far.

They weighed their pulks before setting off and are carrying 120kg and 110kg respectively. "We are hefty, but we have planned for 55 days food and fuel," they said in an update.

No word yet from British duo Alan Chambers and David Thomas, or from Hercules Inlet to South Pole speed record hopeful Vincent Colliard.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Canadian Patrick Bernier's solo expedition from the northern edge of Berkner Island to the Pole was also delayed by the season's late start. He flew to Union Glacier on Nov. 18 and is well underway, with 188km under his belt.

Fat-biking to the Pole

Omar Di Felice is off and rolling toward the Pole, allbeit quite slowly. Antarctica is a tough place to ride a bicycle, as Di Felice found out last year. He should eclipse his 2022 effort today. Eight days in, he has completed 99km from Hercules Inlet.

A fart-bike in Antarctica
Di Felice's bike. Photo: Omar Di Felice

 

Di Felice has already faced a gear malfunction, but it wasn't the bike. Two of his fuel tanks were leaking, necessitating a resupply from ALE.

"Thanks to an overflight over Antarctica, two tanks finally arrived from the ALE operation field today," he wrote. "But do not expect an Amazon courier. They were left in the middle of nowhere, with a satellite message to indicate the coordinates. Imagine finding a small invisible point in the immensity of the White Desert. It was not easy and I spent several hours with a compass and GPS."

Di Felice is alternating between cycling and carrying/dragging the bike, depending on the conditions. He's also sharing some spectacular photos.

Guided trips

Kustaa Piha, Anders Brotherus, and guide Poppis Suomela, are a week into their supported (they'll use three resupplies) Hercules Inlet to South Pole trip. They are making decent progress, covering just under 20km per day and fueling themselves with some interesting grub.

"Today, we tested moose stew with the mindset that it will be our Christmas meal and Independence Day celebration feast," they wrote in a recent update.

Moose stew.
Moose stew. Photo: The Pole Expeditions
There are two other guided trips with very little information available. Lucie Porizova Vyborna, guided by Christian Styve, will set out from the Messner Start to the Pole (at 911km, this is a shorter journey than from Hercules Inlet). And Swede Per Nordstrom will attempt a solo, supported (two resupplies) trip from the same starting point.

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Antarctica 2023-4: List of Expeditions https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-expeditions/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctica-2023-expeditions/#respond Wed, 15 Nov 2023 17:22:55 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=89015

As the Antarctic sledding season approaches, here are the expeditions that have been announced so far.

Crossings

Like last season, there are no full Antarctic crossings announced. However, Brit Sam Cox will attempt a solo, unsupported "crossing" (by the Polar Expeditions Classification Scheme definitions) of roughly 2,000km from Berkner Island to the base of the Reedy Glacier via the South Pole.

Australian Gareth Andrews and Kiwi Richard Stephenson attempted this same route last year. The pair took 66 days to the Pole, about 600km short of their target, and aborted there.

Hercules Inlet to the South Pole

At least five expeditions will ski from Hercules Inlet to the Pole, once again making it the most popular South Pole starting point.

Twenty-five-year-old American Jacob 'Val' Myers will go solo and unsupported. He aims to finish in 45 days.

Other solo Hercules Inlet skiers include Brit James Baxter, who aims for a 56-day run to the Pole, and Pierre Hedan of France.

James Baxter at home.
James Baxter at home. Photo: James Baxter

 

Alan Chambers and David Thomas will also ski unsupported to the Pole. Chambers has some experience, having skied to the North Pole in 2000 with Charlie Paton on a 70-day expedition.

Finally, polar veteran Vincent Colliard will attempt to break the men's speed record from Hercules Inlet to the Pole. Norwegian Christian Eide set an impressive time of 24 days, 1 hour, and 13 minutes in 2011. Beating the time would be no mean feat and Colliard will need some luck with weather and snow conditions. When Eric Larsen tried to beat Eide's time in 2018, it coincided with an unusually snowy season in Antarctica, and many expeditions, including Larsen's, foundered in the soft snow.

Berkner Island to the South Pole

Canadian Patrick Bernier's expedition is refreshing in that he isn't looking to set any dubious records, position himself for the post-expedition corporate speaking circuit, or inspire anyone to [insert cheesy motivational quote here].

"I'm not aiming for any records. Just a childhood dream come true," Bernier writes on his website. He doesn't even claim to be a "polar explorer" before setting foot near either pole!

Bernier is planning a solo, unsupported expedition from the northern edge of Berkner Island to the Pole, a meaty 1,368km. He is en route to Antarctica and would already be on the ice, but his flight to Union Glacier was delayed. 

Union Glacier to the Pole

British firefighters Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe will ski from Antarctica Logistics & Expeditions Union Glacier camp to the South Pole, a 1,130km route according to their website. They will be unsupported.

The Antarctic "Fire Angels" (Georgina Gilbert and Rebecca Openshaw-Rowe). Photo: Antarctic Fire Angels

Cycling to the Pole?

Omar Di Felice has tried to cycle in Antarctica before. Last year, he aimed for a 1,600km trip starting at Hercules Inlet. But Di Felice didn't manage more than 100km before aborting because of an unexplained "serious personal problem."

This year, Di Felice will set out on the same route, leaving from Hercules Inlet toward the Pole. He will then continue to 88° south on the South Pole Overland Traverse (or SPOT) road before turning around and returning to the South Pole base for pickup. The extra distance is no doubt an attempt to break Daniel Burton's 1,247km Antarctica cycle record, set in 2013-2014.

Ultracyclist Omar Di Felice.
Ultracyclist Omar Di Felice. Photo: Omar Di Felice

 

Aside from the expeditions listed above, there is an ALE-guided expedition from the Messner start and a few still-unannounced projects.

We'll update this list of expeditions as others confirm their plans.

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Unprecedented: Over 9,000 Emperor Penguin Chicks Die from Sparse Sea Ice https://explorersweb.com/sea-ice-emperor-penguin-chicks-death/ https://explorersweb.com/sea-ice-emperor-penguin-chicks-death/#respond Mon, 28 Aug 2023 17:00:32 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=85447

Emperor penguins have experienced a disastrous breeding failure, Antarctic researchers reported late last week. Satellites indicate that "anomalous" sea ice loss — which has occurred every year since 2021 — was likely the driving factor that killed over 9,000 fledgling penguins as of the 2022 breeding season.

Several penguin colonies in the study area, which harbors several thousand breeding pairs of birds across multiple sites, lost their entire broods of chicks. The lost birds froze to death or drowned in the Antarctic Ocean before fledging.

Approaching extinction

Researchers published the grim report on August 24 in the journal Communications Earth & Environment. In it, they acknowledged the catastrophic summer looks like an episode in the emperor penguin’s rapidly-approaching extinction.

The iconic species needs stable ice each year between April and January for reproductive success. After locating their preferred nesting sites in early spring, they lay their eggs between May and June. Chicks hatch in late summer after 65 days of incubation, then fledge (or grow their waterproof feathers) during December and January.

Before they develop that specialized plumage, they’re susceptible to freezing or drowning. Without substantive ice cover over the ocean, the chicks cannot survive.

 

Co-led by Peter Fretwell, a researcher at the British Antarctic Survey, the study used satellite imaging to track five colonies of emperor penguins in the central and eastern Bellinghausen Sea. The method is well-ingrained, scientists have used it to count penguin populations in the area for 14 years.

Thin ice has persisted for each of the last three years and it now appears conditions have become dire for the emperor penguin.

Total breeding failure

"Of the five breeding sites in the region all but one experienced total breeding failure after sea ice break-up before the start of the fledging period of the 2022 breeding season. This is the first recorded incident of a widespread breeding failure of emperor penguins that is clearly linked with large-scale contractions in sea ice extent," the paper explained.

Antarctica is the emperor penguin’s only habitat. The world’s largest penguin, the current population numbers about 300,000 breeding pairs. Scientists recognize 62 known penguin colonies. Of those, Fretwell told the Associated Press that low sea ice levels last year harmed around 30 percent of those, and 13 "likely failed entirely."

It’s possible that colonies could adapt by finding new breeding locations, he said. But while they may recover from one or two bad seasons, their future looks bleak. The study references multiple assessments that, if current global warming trends persist, over 90% of emperor colonies will be "quasi-extinct" by the end of the century.

Fretwell put it simply: "If you look further out down the line, how many suitable places will be left?"

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Job Offer: Work in the Post Office on Penguin-Rich South Georgia https://explorersweb.com/postal-job-south-george-island/ https://explorersweb.com/postal-job-south-george-island/#respond Thu, 08 Jun 2023 06:45:49 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=81507

One of the great things about the phrase "penguin-rich" is that it applies to relatively few people or places. Alas, I'm not one of them (penguin-poor?) but if I lived and worked on South Georgia Island, I'd be practically rolling in them.

The glut of flightless ice birds is just about the only thing to recommend South Georgia Island. Wikipedia describes the place as "remote and inhospitable" in the second sentence. All of which is a long way of getting around to asking you this question: Would you like to be a postal worker there?

Thirty humans, countless penguins

Along with the South Sandwich Islands, South Georgia is a self-governing British territory, and its government is looking for two postal workers to take up residence on the island from September 25, 2023, to March 31, 2024.

Suppose you're one of those unique characters whose idea of a good time is postal work in a place that takes three days to reach by boat, is home to 30 human residents, but houses half the world's king penguin population. In that case, you should definitely pop over to the South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands governmental website to apply.

Some of the job requirements:

  • Near-perfect health. You have to pass some screenings, as airlifting you out for medical attention would cost a boatload of cash.
  • Good customer service skills. In addition to managing the mail, you'll be dealing with some 14,000 cruise-ship tourists and visiting scientists a year, according to Polar Journal.
  • You have to be okay with a low salary. The pay is €30,000 plus room, board, and travel.
  • Excel!
An old whaling station at the foot of large mountains on South Georgia Island.
Grytviken, the site of the old whaling station on South Georgia. Photo: Shutterstock

 

Earnest Shackleton's resting place

Fans of polar history will know South Georgia Island as the spot where explorer Earnest Shackleton (along with two crew members) made a 35km traverse over the mountains after surviving a 1,300km open-boat voyage from Elephant Island across one of the planet's nastiest stretches of water.

In fact, Shackleton is buried on South Georgia. So, joking aside, the job could be worth it just to pay your respects to "The Boss." Not this one. That one.

Applications are open through June 16, with interviews starting the week of June 26.

Good luck!

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A Heat Wave at -37˚C? That's Bad News at the South Pole https://explorersweb.com/south-pole-heat-wave/ https://explorersweb.com/south-pole-heat-wave/#comments Thu, 30 Mar 2023 17:55:50 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=78201

The Amundsen-Scott station at the South Pole is recording a heat wave — measuring average days of -37˚C instead of the typical -53.7˚ average.

While it's not unusual for temps at the Pole to tick upward from time to time, scientists say the severity and duration of this event is part of a global pattern of unusual weather this season: from record-breaking snowpack in the American West to the second-warmest winter in Europe.

"The culprit for the unusually high temperatures [at the South Pole] is likely to be a shift in the southern jet stream, the undulating high-altitude current that carries warm air masses far into the south while bringing colder air masses farther north," wrote Dr. Michael Wenger in a recent post on Polar Journal.

Atmospheric rivers bring heat and moisture, Wenger continued. As of this writing, a glance at the South Pole Station webcam bolstered his thesis: It showed the cloudy skies accompanying such rivers.

Wenger also pointed out that February saw the lowest Antarctic sea ice levels on record, with ice continuing to decline in March.

Taken together, the trends are "another shot across the bow that shows that climate is going off the rails globally," the scientist concluded. If there's a silver lining, it's this: The temperatures aren't as warm as those recorded last year, when Concordia station reported a relatively sweltering -11˚C.

What's cooler than being cool? Ice cold.

On the other end of the Antarctic weather spectrum is the kind of mind-boggling cold the continent is famous for. A good example is the conditions experienced by three members of Robert Scott's 1911 Antarctic expedition.

Apsley Cherry-Garrard, Henry Bowers, and Bill Wilson split off from the primary expedition in June 1911 to collect emperor penguin eggs. On their journey, they camped in -60.5˚C (-77˚F) — still a record low for a night spent in the open.

"The day lives in my memory as that on which I found out that records are not worth making," Cherry-Garrard later wrote in his great classic memoir of the ordeal, "The Worst Journey in the World."

If only some contemporary Antarctic travelers took this to heart and were less concerned with records.

Anyway, as fate would have it, the egg quest so weakened Cherry-Garrard that he didn't accompany Scott on the final push for the pole. Scott and four others (including Bowers and Wilson, but minus Cherry-Garrard) did make it to the South Pole, but their hopes of being the first there were dashed. A Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen beat them by 34 days — a fact Scott's team only realized upon discovering a flag, gear, and note the Norwegians left behind at the Pole.

"Great God! This is an awful place," Scott wrote in his journal. "Well, it is something to have got here."

The five men began the multi-week return journey. But their frigid trek ended when the men perished 18km from One Ton Depot, a supply cache they'd created earlier in the expedition.

Would Scott's group have made it these days, in the relatively balmy climes? Hard to say, but it's at least certain that Cherry-Garrard did not want it any colder.

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A Treasure Map to Falling Stars? This Glaciologist Made One https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-meteorite-treasure-map/ https://explorersweb.com/antarctic-meteorite-treasure-map/#respond Sun, 26 Mar 2023 17:12:59 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=77874

Imagine you're a planetary geologist who studies meteorites. You know that Antarctica is a great place to find them — they tend to stick out on that windswept, white-and-blue continent. But the logistics of travel in Antarctica, combined with the size of most meteorites relative to a continental search area, makes for a daunting task.

What if you had a map?

That's what Belgian glaciologist Harry Zekollari thought to himself over a decade ago. He passed the idea on to his colleague, Veronica Tollennar.

Tollennar might have the most interesting biography of any glaciologist on the planet. As reported by El Pais, the Dutch scientist is an accomplished flutist specializing in Medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque music. She also studied civil engineering, a discipline that taught her to use artificial intelligence tools.

a simple map of where to find meteorites in Antarctica
Dutch glaciologist Veronica Tollenaar used machine learning to generate this map of possible meteorite locations. The black spots are likely meteorite surfacing zones, and the pink tent symbols are research stations. Map: Veronica Tollenaar

 

Tollennar and a team of researchers applied those machine-learning skills to the question of meteorite hunting in Antarctica. They eventually published their findings and developed a public map that any scientist can use to home in on possible space rocks.

How did they do this? It all has to do with one of Antarctica's most unique properties.

How the map was made

As meteorites fall on Antarctica, snow buries them, and the rocks eventually sink into the substrate of Antarctic ice. These ice layers flow in titanic glacial rivers, only stopping when they come up against obstacles like mountains. There, the ice coughs up its extraterrestrial treasures, creating zones where finding meteorites is relatively easy.

Until Tollennar and her map, scientists had to more or less stumble over these zones by looking for areas of "blue ice" — the compressed ice known to contain meteorites. But by using machine learning to map the movement of Antarctica's subsurface glacial rivers, scientists can predict the best spots to hunt for meteorites. And some of those spots are relatively close to existing research stations.

A graphic from Veronica Tollenaar's paper illustrates two ways that obstacles can cause submerged meteorites to surface. Illustration: Veronica Tollenaar Et al.

 

"Maybe only one in 100 meteorites is special. So, in order to get that special meteorite, you need to find the other 100 as well,” Tollenaar told El Pais.

Tollenaar posits that some 340,000 meteorites might be congregated in the zones on her map. She's currently seeking funding to better explore some of those areas.

But as any fan of exploration knows, having a map is only half the battle. Especially in Antarctica.

a landscape of the Antarctic interior
Antarctica's unforgiving qualities make meteorite hunting a challenge, even with a map. Photo: Shutterstock

 

“The task of recovering Antarctic meteorites is only 10 percent science; the rest is training, planning and logistics,” said geologist Ralph Harvey, head of the Antarctic Search for Meteorites project.

Still, it's work worth doing. Meteorites, especially ones preserved by Antarctic ice, allow scientists to study star formation and the evolution of life in our universe.

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Music Of Melting Earth Blurs Line Between Art And Science https://explorersweb.com/ice-music-melting-earth/ https://explorersweb.com/ice-music-melting-earth/#respond Wed, 22 Mar 2023 08:07:56 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=77759

Polar Force. Energy Field. Permafrost. Weather Report.

If those sound like the names of 1970s jazz-fusion bands, you're not far from the truth. They're album titles from a growing sub-genre of recording: the sounds of melting ice and changing weather.

While many documentaries have explored the visual evidence of our warming world, a cross-section of talented people have begun delving into the auditory equivalent. From climate professors to environmental activists to ambient music artists — records of Earth's climatic extremes offer an aural insight into the forces reshaping our world.

Dedicated readers of ExplorersWeb will know that climate change is quickly transforming the Alps, causing increased danger for climbers and headaches for land managers. But have you listened to the melting permafrost and contracting glaciers of the Swiss Alps?

Lovers of polar adventure may understand the rigid rules of Antarctic exploration, but have you heard the hair-raising recordings of a violent blizzard?

From art projects to online archives, there's a fascinating new body of sound worth exploring.

Jana Winderen

Norwegian musician and activist Jana Winderen has been transforming natural sounds into ambient collages for more than 20 years.

Much of her work focuses on the bizarre, otherworldly tones of cracking, melting ice. Recordings from polar regions like Greenland include smooth, descending glissandos like a diving missile or percussive slaps like a bebop drummer. Her albums prove there's an astounding diversity and clarity to the music of melting ice.

Her 2010 work Energy Field creates a tone poem to icy landscapes teeming with the often unseen drama of frozen rivers and moving glaciers.

“I made an early decision to work with the immaterial material that sound is, however physical it can be,” she told Forbes in 2021. “You get quite a physical experience, but it doesn’t take up any space and I reuse my recording equipment.

"If you see an object, you want to buy it. I’d rather people have an experience that they can carry with them and associate with instead of actually owning an object, something that doesn’t necessarily cost anything to come and experience, just the act of listening itself."

Philip Samartzis

It only took one Antarctic blizzard for Australian sound artist and researcher Philip Samartzis to realize the transformative potential of ice song.

He's been recording sounds at the edge of the world since 2010 when he had an arts fellowship to document the acoustic environment of Australia's Davis Research Station in Antarctica, which resulted in the recording above.

Since then, he's taken his work to the Swiss Alps. His new album Atmospheres and Disturbances, out this month, tracks the rapidly disintegrating environment through the sonic screams of a melting landscape.

“When I talk to scientists about climate change, everyone’s all talked out," he said in The New York Times. "Essentially everyone knows, so it’s, ‘Why should I listen to you and your report?’” Samartzis said. “These recordings may not be scientifically sound, but it’s a whole other way of communicating knowledge, a different aperture of experience.”

Thomas Koner

German producer Thomas Koner has been making music from melting ice for longer than most. He started back in the 1990s when the experience of watching fog flow around a Norwegian glacier changed his life.

That led him to create a trilogy of ambient music albums inspired by the awe of Arctic spaces and the slow inevitability of its vast ice formations. The artist's 2012 album Novaya Zemlyaa testament to glaciers in the Arctic archipelago — might be Koner's last work.

Albums like Daikan, above, evoke an undeniable sense of the isolation and indifference felt at the world's ice extremes.

Need still more ice music in your life? Check out this nifty Spotify playlist created by The New York Times. The next time you need something chill and ambient for your meditation/yoga/chill time — consider one of these icy reflections on a changing world.

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A Video Tour of Robert Scott's Discovery Hut in Antarctica https://explorersweb.com/video-tour-discovery-hut-antarctica/ https://explorersweb.com/video-tour-discovery-hut-antarctica/#respond Mon, 13 Mar 2023 18:06:22 +0000 https://explorersweb.wpenginepowered.com/?p=77395

When Antarctica's Discovery Hut was built for Robert Falcon Scott's first expedition in 1901, no one expected that it would survive until the next century.

The little building became a refuge for many more explorers during the Heroic Age of Polar Exploration, including Ernest Shackleton.

The YouTube channel Out There Learning takes a tour of the hut with Lizzie Meek of the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Meek helps conserve the building, along with other huts in the McMurdo area. These structures offer a glimpse into the hardship and heroism of polar explorers in Antarctica.

Meek also details the many improvements that have recently been made to the hut. Likely, it will continue to survive the continent's brutal weather for many years.

"For me it's got a feeling of desolation, or an attempt to make a home in a desolate place," the video's interviewer says.

But Meek offered a different perspective.

"The other way could look at it is: How wonderful it would have been to see this after weeks and weeks of sledging. We've just come from a modern-day, lovely, warm base. But when this was the only shelter in the landscape, it suddenly takes on a whole new significance and meaning."

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