Saudi Arabian World Cup climber Sara Qunaibet was the victim of improper use of a Petzl GriGri by a professional coach. She suffered two broken feet and a broken back but could have easily died, especially considering she fell from just below the top anchors and landed beyond the pads.
The incident occurred last year, before the French rounds of the IFSC World Cup held in July 2024. But video of the accident just surfaced. It’s a powerful reminder of the importance of proper techniques and equipment protocols.
Petzl specifies a particular technique for feeding slack for its GriGri, and as always, the brake hand must control the brake strand of the rope. This video and detailed analysis by the narrator reveal that the coach blatantly ignored these rules and committed several other significant errors.
Ironically, the route was an easy warm-up for Qunaibet, and the accident occurred during a test fall that many climbers do to mentally prepare for lead climbing during the training session. And — grab your seat — two other professional coaches were present, one chatting with the belayer the entire time Sara was climbing.
This article first appeared on GearJunkie.
Professional road cycling has made huge leaps in curbing cheating since Lance Armstrong’s seven-year dominance of the Tour de France. But rabid cycling fans and insider pundits still harbor fears that cheating is still producing winning performances at the highest levels. The complete trust of the top riders and teams has been hard to come by. Any hint of foul play generates extreme scrutiny.
From barbituates, steroids, pain killers, EPO, blood transfusions, and motor doping, big-money cycling has exercised extreme measures to obtain the most marginal of competitive advantages. So when chatter surfaces about a new, high-tech, novel way to squeeze out a gain, it isn’t much of a surprise.
Last year, word spread that road cycling’s winningest riders and teams could inhale poisonous gas in the name of performance. This shocked even the most scrupulous fans.
But yesterday, the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) officially banned the potentially deadly practice of repeated carbon monoxide inhalation from all competitive cycling under its jurisdiction.
The official press release summarizes the ban as follows: “The new regulation forbids the possession, outside a medical facility, of commercially available CO re-breathing systems connected to oxygen and CO cylinders. This ban applies to all license-holders, teams, and/or bodies subject to the UCI Regulations and to anyone else who might possess such equipment on behalf of riders or teams.”
The new ruling goes into effect on February 10.
Carbon monoxide (CO) gas can be an invisible, silent killer. This is why we have CO detectors in RVs and homes. CO has a stronger affinity to the oxygen-carrying component in red blood cells (hemoglobin, or Hb) than oxygen itself.
When inhaled, CO displaces oxygen and eventually causes “suffocation” from the inside. We need detectors because the gas has no taste, color, or odor.
Ironically, CO’s strong affinity for Hb can potentially also enhance aerobic performance. Anything that reduces the blood’s oxygen level over time will stimulate a compensatory response to reestablish this capacity. This is why athletes go to altitude.
The lower partial pressure of oxygen at higher elevations results in fewer oxygen molecules bound to red blood cells. This also means the blood transfers less oxygen to working muscles.
As the athlete continues to live and work at altitude, the body produces more blood volume, hemoglobin, and other factors to compensate. Theoretically, this boosted oxygen-carrying ability provides a greater advantage at lower altitudes.
Repeatedly inhaling CO has the same oxygen-lowering effect as high altitude but with a different mechanism. Instead of less air pressure driving less oxygen into the blood and tissues, CO competes with the oxygen for binding sites on the Hb of red blood cells. Less oxygen bound to Hb ultimately means less oxygen for working muscles.
Studies strongly suggest that it triggers the same compensatory adaptations. But, unlike altitude training, CO inhalation can be extremely harmful.
The practice of CO “doping” actually stems from a diagnostic test that teams used to determine training efficacy. Specifically, CO “rebreathing” helped determine blood volume and Hb mass, which helped teams quantify physiological gains made during altitude training camps.
It worked like this: Athletes determine a baseline measurement for CO blood levels using blood and breathing tests. Then, the athlete inhales a small amount of CO diluted with oxygen for two minutes through an enclosed circuit. The CO binds to Hb in the red blood cells to form carboxyhemoglobin.
After these two minutes, teams measured the amount of carboxyhemoglobin in the breath and blood and compared it to the baseline levels to calculate Hb mass. This Hb mass is an indicator of the effectiveness of altitude training or any other method used to increase the oxygen-carrying capacity of blood.
CO rebreathing machines specific to this type of testing automate this procedure. However, athletes can achieve the same results through a manual process using a closed-circuit carbon monoxide rebreather system.
This article first appeared on GearJunkie.
Babsi Zangerl climbed Freerider (VI, 5.13a) on El Capitan in Yosemite this past weekend, reaching the top of the 1,000m-tall formation without falling on the first attempt. Reaching the top of a climbing route in this manner is called a “flash.”
Zangerl’s flash is the first on one of the most famous climbing cliffs. Zangerl, 36, of Austria is one of the best all-around rock climbers on Earth, notching ascents across bouldering, sport climbing, trad single pitch, trad multipitch, and big wall routes. She was supported by her long-time partner and equally talented Jacopo Larcher on the historic ascent.
In 2012, British climber Leo Houlding nearly onsighted (climbing a route from the ground up without falling on the first attempt, without any prior knowledge or ever seeing anyone else climb it) Freerider, only taking a single fall.
Then his compatriot Pete Whittaker flashed Freerider in 2014, but his ascent has a few asterisks. Whittaker fell while attempting the Huber variation of the route on his third day. He “saved” his flash attempt by taking the Teflon Corner, essentially detouring around the section where he fell.
Zangerl’s Freerider flash is the first “clean” attempt.
German brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber established Freerider in 1998. It gained notoriety in 2017 due to Alex Honnold’s successful solo ascent (no rope), highlighted in the movie Free Solo.
This article first appeared on GearJunkie.
Bond Almand departed from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, on Aug. 31, 2024, and rolled into Ushuaia, Argentina, today. He smashed the prior Pan American Highway record by nine days. And, astonishingly, he chose to do it fully unsupported, solo, even though the gatekeepers to such records do not require this self-imposed limitation.
Almand’s route is one of the most arduous, varied, and potentially treacherous bicycle routes imaginable.
The Pan-American Highway was originally planned in 1923 as a single roadway connecting North and South America. In 1937, Argentina, Bolivia, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Peru, and the United States agreed to construct their sections in a timely manner. The highway through Mexico was the first Latin American section completed, completely self-financed. The U.S. assisted with many Central American sections.
The Pan-American Highway is nearly continuous, with a notable exception of the Darien Gap, a 100km section between Panama and Colombia that is notoriously dangerous and has been the scene of kidnapping, guerilla violence, smuggling, and drug trafficking.
It is also home to several Indigenous peoples who oppose construction and contains environmentally sensitive rainforest and marshlands. Most travelers circumvent the Gap by boat or plane.
Almand’s chosen path took him through Alaska, Canada, Montana, Wyoming, Nebraska, Colorado, Texas, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama, where he hopped on a flight to Colombia. From there, he hugged the Pacific coast, traversing Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Chile, finally heading inland to end his months-long adventure in Argentina.
This story first appeared on GearJunkie.
Australian cyclist Lachlan Morton, 32, just broke one of the more difficult records in long-distance biking. He circumnavigated Australia in 30 days, 9 hours, and 59 minutes. He averaged an astonishing 450km per day to log a new Fastest Known Time for a route known simply as “The Lap.”
Morton is no stranger to extreme ultra-distance cycling events. He famously completed the “Alt Tour” in 2021, riding the entire Tour de France course, including all the motorized transfers, unsupported, and beating the pro peloton to Paris.
In his new FKT, the former WorldTour pro broke a 13-year-old record of 37 days, 20 hours, 42 minutes for Around Australia set by Dave Alley.
According to the Road Record Association of Australia (RRAA), cyclists must complete at least 14,200km to earn an FKT for “The Lap.” Additionally, the rider must pass through at least six of these cities: Adelaide, Brisbane, Broome, Darwin, Esperance, Melbourne, Perth, and Sydney.
Morton began and ended his quest in his hometown of Port Macquarie, New South Wales. To make the most of prevailing winds, his route circled the “Great Southern Country” counterclockwise. He planned on starting most days around midnight to avoid the heat and riding until 5 or 6 pm.
Unlike his other solo record attempts, this time, he had a support crew. This team included his wife, Rachel Peck, and his brother and former pro cyclist, Angus Morton. His childhood coach, Tom Hopper, and friends Karter Machen and Athalee Brown were also along for support.
Morton, who is sponsored by EF Pro Cycling, started turning the pedals on September 4. The EF Pro Cycling website carried a live feed where fans could follow Morton’s “dot” around Australia and daily updates. Morton also authored Instagram posts describing the day’s events.
The daily feeds described Morton riding through every conceivable condition, from bitter cold to blistering heat, through rain, over massive climbs and poor road surfaces, into smoke from controlled fires, and nursing a nagging Achilles tendon injury.
On day 7, Morton had to bunny hop over a kangaroo. Although the route was planned to take advantage of tailwinds, he endured more than his fair share of headwinds.
This article first appeared on GearJunkie.
In the spring of 2022, the powerful all-female adventure team of Hilaree Nelson, Emily Harrington, Brette Harrington, and Christina Lusti embarked on an expedition to Baffin Island, Canada. The objective: climb and ski first descents in some of the most remote terrain imaginable.
This story originally appeared on GearJunkie.
This kind of video isn’t uncommon, and the draw is understandable. Incredible cinematography of expansive landscapes intertwined with epic hero clips of the world’s best mountain athletes doing what they do best are staples in this video category. And, of course, some athlete interviews are in order.
In Earthside, the camaraderie and closeness of the four women are palpable. The excitement of completing the climbing and skiing objectives shines through the eye-popping visuals and engaging interviews. And, appropriately, the “it doesn’t matter what you do, it matters who you’re with” vibe punches through the well-executed storyline.
Nelson died last September while skiing down Manaslu, the eighth-highest peak on the planet. She left behind a longtime partner, Jim Morrison (who was present), and two sons.
The posthumous words in Hilaree Nelson’s narration and interviews regarding risk-taking as a mother, partner, and friend couldn’t be more poignant. Especially since Emily Harrington discovered she was pregnant with her first child shortly before departing for Baffin Island. And Brette Harrington lost her partner, Marc-André Leclerc, to an avalanche in 2018.
I could have easily and logically given this story to someone who identifies as a female and/or a mother. And maybe I should have.
But as I watched and heard Hilaree Nelson’s recollections of explaining expeditions, risks, and the possibility of not coming home to her kids, it hit me in the gut.
I went through a vehemently contested divorce, during which the mother of my 10-year-old daughter attempted to deny me almost any visitation. This was based on my “reckless” risk-taking in outdoor pursuits, including climbing. Nelson’s narration vindicated my adult life and fight for my child.
But more importantly, Nelson’s words reinforced how I try to raise my child while I’m still Earthside. Nelson’s opening quotes do more justice than I ever could.
“I think there’s so much aversion to risk-taking today. And I don’t think that’s the right direction we should be going. You have to take risks if you want to learn anything about yourself. You have to take risks if you want to expand kind of the self-imposed walls we’ve got around ourselves.”
When my daughter is a little older, I’ll tell her Nelson’s story and perhaps show her this video. And I’ll let her decide for herself the amount of risk she’s willing to endure to grow and feel alive in a world that seems only to commend risk aversion.
The Tour de France often looks like a hectic free-for-all as the tightly packed peloton flies through the French countryside.
Riders must constantly jockey for position with the athletes around them while trying to gain every advantage possible to win. How the tour works can be a bit tough to understand in its own right.
But in addition to the complicated race format, the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI), which regulates the race, has precise rules that all riders and team members must follow. Some restrictions, like not cutting the course, seem obvious. Others seem arbitrary, unnecessary, or downright weird.
Here are a few of the strangest rules Tour de France riders must follow.
Bikes are good for the environment, right? So races should be, too. Per UCI guidelines, athletes face hefty fines and point deductions if they toss gel packaging, bottles, clothing, or trash outside designated zones outlined by race officials.
Wout van Aert has already received one such fine during this year's Tour de France. The UCI levies punishment for littering when an offense meets the following criteria:
"*(A) Rider or team staff disposing of waste or other objects outside of litter zones, or not returned to team or organization staff, not collected by team staff, thrown at a spectator. Disposing waste or other objects in a careless or dangerous manner (e.g., bottle or other object remaining or bouncing back on the road, thrown directly or with excessive force at spectator, causing dangerous manoeuvre by other rider or vehicle, causing spectator to move onto the road)."
The first infraction amounts to roughly a $500 fine and a 25-point deduction from the UCI rankings. A second infraction comes with a $1,000 fine and a 50-point deduction in UCI rankings. A third offense is a bit nastier. It results in a $1,500 fine, a 75-point deduction in UCI rankings, and elimination or disqualification from the race.
The UCI prohibits pushing off of cars, motorcycles, or riders. It also prohibits riders and spectators from pushing other riders.
Fans frequently run next to riders to offer support, particularly during grueling climbs. But a push can have severe consequences for a rider, including a 20% penalty in the points classification for sprints (green jersey) or in King of Mountain (KOM) classifications (polka-dot jersey) and a 10-second penalty per infraction.
Sometimes, stages get hot. It's common to see riders spraying themselves with their bottles to get their core temperature down.
The UCI has no problem with riders giving themselves a refreshing spray, but if someone gives them one from a team car, that is just a bridge too far.
The UCI fines drivers about $200 per infraction for giving riders a spray on the course.
If you're on a bike for several hours ingesting enough liquid to float Noah's ark, nature is going to call. It's normal for riders at the Tour de France and other grand tours to stop to relieve themselves during portions of races where they still have time to catch up with the peloton.
According to UCI rules, however, this is a no-no. If race officials identify a rider urinating, they can levy a fine of anywhere from about $200 to $500.
Riders often stop in large packs to relieve themselves simultaneously, so race officials can't get them all.
If you wonder whether cyclists competing in grand tours have any honor, sometimes it just isn't allowed. Per UCI rules, riders cannot receive assistance from other teams during races. This rule comes with a significant punishment as well. Riders can be penalized anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes per infraction, with a roughly $500 fine.
Two minutes is a massive margin in a stage race like the Tour de France. That kind of deficit could be a nail in the coffin of a rider, even if they are at the front of the pack.
Richie Porte learned this lesson the hard way in 2015 when the UCI hit him with a $200 fine and a 2-minute penalty during the Giro d'Italia for accepting a wheel from a racer on another team in the last bit of Stage 10 after he blew a tire. He later abandoned the race.
Most cyclists are ready to strip out of their tight-fitting Lycra as soon as possible when the ride is over. Tour de France cyclists are not so lucky.
The UCI requires riders to wear their complete racing kit during podium obligations, including each day's sign-in and the team presentation ceremony. That means some riders will stay in their tight racing outfit for long outside the race, before and after.
Wearing the wrong clothing to the podium can result in about a $500 fine for a rider or sports director.
Riders need to pump their bodies full of nutrition throughout races to remain competitive, but they are not allowed to feed (receive food) whenever they want. Feeds to riders must occur in designated areas.
The UCI penalizes riders who feed in the first 30 km and last 20 km of stage races, including the Tour de France. Those caught feeding in the first stretch face about a $200 fine. Those caught in the last stretch pick up the same fine and a 20-second time penalty.
Any more infractions come with about a $1,000 fine per infraction.
Until 2021, riders would charge into descents in a "super-tuck" position, dropping down to the top tube of their bike to maximize aerodynamics. To make riding safer, the UCI banned the super tuck last year while also forbidding riders from resting their forearms on their handlebars to achieve a time-trial-like position on a standard road bike.
The new rules called on riders to stay on their bikes as designers intended. Does it make racing safer? Maybe?
Yep. The UCI will come for your socks. The UCI in 2018 noted that riders' socks must not extend more than halfway up a rider's shin.
Here's how they put it: "Socks and overshoes used in competition may not rise above the height defined by half the distance between the middle of the lateral malleolus and the middle of the fibula head."
The idea is to limit riders' aerodynamic advantage from their footwear. But socks are pretty low on the priority list if this year's helmets indicate how riders try to find the perfect aero system.
The UCI wants spectators and riders to get along. So, any form of "assault, intimidation, insults, threats, improper conduct (including pulling the jersey or saddle of another rider, blow with the helmet, knee, elbow, shoulder, foot or hand, etc.), or behaviour is indecent, or that endangers others" is expressly forbidden.
Riders face fines from $200 to $2,000 for any infraction against another rider or spectator.
This article was originally published on GearJunkie.